cap
The hat is a piece of headgear that differs from a cap by its fixed shape and the surrounding brim . If this border around the hat does not run all the way around the head, it is called a cap . Under the meaning of hat equals protection, there are differentiating terms such as rain hat, summer hat or sun hat, whereby the wide edge protects the wearer from the weather, cools or warms, such as in the sombrero and the southwest. In addition to its practical function, the hat can serve to underline and express the personality of its wearer and symbolize the wearer's affiliation to a social class, professional group or similar association.
Traditional hat manufacturers are milliners and hat makers , whose supplier is the hat mold maker . A hat stump is an intermediate product for the manufacture of a wide variety of hat shapes. The proverbial hat string around the hat cap prevents the hat from falling apart.
Origin of the word
The word hat comes from the Middle High German Huot and originally meant blanket or protection (in the sense of care ), but was then used more specifically to mean headgear. It originated from an Indo-European root * kadh- or * skad- ("protective covering"; still in Sanskrit chad ) through the loss of the possible "s" sound and shifting of the initial and final consonants.
The feminine form (mhd. Huote ), on the other hand, denotes supervision, care, protection in general, cf. beware . This was used, among other things, in relation to feudal relationships , the guarding of women (see huote excursus in Tristan ) , but also military guards. From this the saying “be on the lookout” developed.
Colloquially there were and are different names for a hat: lid , jackdaw , vapor box , civil helmet , Reseda pot , the top hat ; except topper also Aalkasten , weighting box , stovepipe , Rußmütze , cemetery lantern or Fünfliterhut.
material
Hats can be made from a wide variety of materials, for example felt from sheep wool , rabbit hair, beaver hair and cashmere wool and, more rarely nowadays, from nutria hair, or other animal hairs are mixed with the felts, for example chinchilla or mink , guanaco is rare , Red deer (Cervelt), vicuna or mohair are used. A special wool felt is the "antelope felt", it does not consist of antelope hair, but describes a particularly dense type of wool felt. A distinction is made between smooth types of felt, as well as roughened peachbloom / velor and long-haired melousine. In America, the felt quality is also given with the so-called X-value. However, this is not a clearly comparable statement, as each hat manufacturer has its own values.
In the case of felt hats, a further distinction is made between normal (with pre-pressed shapes) and foldable and rollable qualities. There are various well-known brand names for these felt qualities Litefelt®, Pliofelt® ( Akubra ), Vitafelt® ( Stetson ), although foldable and rollable are not the same thing.
In addition, hats can also be made of cotton, linen and hemp fabrics and various types of straw, as well as types of paper, man-made fibers or leather . Furthermore, a distinction is made between the type of weave in cloth hats and the type of weave in straw hats . A special type of hat is the Brazilian "tarp hat", which consists of recycled truck tarpaulins.
Especially wool felt hats, but also hats made of straw and other materials can be made stiffened or unstiffened. In order to make the materials wool felt, straw, etc. stiffer, various stiffening agents are used. Traditionally, shellac (often refined, bleached) was used alone or in various mixtures with, for example, borax , rosin and copal . It was also tragacanth , cherry gum and other gums , and gelatin used as a setting lotion. Beeswax and various animal fats were also added to increase the water resistance. In modern times, synthetic stiffening agents such as acrylics , polyurethanes or polyvinyl acetate were introduced. These modern setting agents can be adjusted very well to the desired degree of stiffness and they have a longer service life. Shellac is still used today.
Hat anatomy
Hat parts and places
After the hat stump has been shaped, the various hat points and hat parts are distinguished as follows:
- Ventilation eyelets
- Edging or brim edge , different types of sewing are possible: raw edge , over-, underwelt , bound edge (a piece of grosgrain ribbon is sewn around) and cavanagh edge (a specially pressed brim edge, this is no longer produced these days)
- Lanyard or cordon , originally used to hold a rider's headgear in place, later as a decorative element; one end can e.g. B. be attached in the buttonhole on the jacket lapel.
- Lining roof
- Set or hat decoration
- Neck or collateral ligament , the upright sides of the head
- Hat band
- Hat band loop or bow
- Hat lining
- Hat brim
- Hat string or hat cord
- Hat shoulder , where the crown merges into the brim.
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Chin strap or chin strap , and storm straps or storm band can it also be retrofitted then different variants:
- There is the variant ( stampede string ) to pierce through the sweatband seam with split pins.
- It is also possible to pierce two small holes through the brim at the side, metal eyelets can also be pressed in here and then the straps can be passed through from both sides;
- With a loop through the holes and then pulled over the crown, the upper part also serves as a hat strap loop.
- It is also possible to simply guide the cord and from below through a hole around the back or front of the crown and back through the other hole.
- It is also possible to lead the cord twice and then put it from above through the holes and the upper part around the crown.
- there are also straps with a widened end or hooks, these can then be put through the holes or you can simply make a button so that the straps do not slip through the hole.
- Then there are those that are attached to the sweatband with safety pins or with preinstalled hooks on which specially designed straps can be attached if necessary. A cord can also be pulled through any two ventilation eyelets on each side.
- Pinch , dent also parting pinch , front or side; small indentations on the head part of the hat to touch when putting on and taking off.
- Kranz , the transition from the platter to the neck
- Crown , head also dome or gupf is the head part of the hat (above the brim)
- Canopy well plate (l) , Plattl , top cover plate of the Hutkopfes
- Mesh inserts
- Perforations , like the mesh inserts and the ventilation eyelets, serve to improve air circulation.
- Bow for the sweatband The bow for the sweatband used to be a drawstring, with the help of which a hat could be adjusted to the individual head size. Nowadays it is only used for decorative purposes.
- Sweatband , sits inside the crown where the hat touches the head. It can consist of leather, then also sweat leather or sweat leather strap or of textile material.
- Mirror , lid, the shiny center on the head of the top hat or mirror also for the part (envelope) of the brim of a bell hat that tilts before the brim strives upwards.
shape
A key design feature is the shape of the crown . A C-crown is, for example, a hat whose crown is bent down on the long side. Another property is the sideband slope .
A hat brim that rolls up evenly all around is called a roller . A curl is a curled or upturned brim.
size
See also → hat size table
The clothing size for hats corresponds to the head circumference in centimeters (cm), measured above the ears and across the middle of the forehead. In the UK and the US, the head diameter in inches is used to indicate size, although the English and American hat sizes are not the same. There is also a French, Italian hat size, which is specified in "Punti" and which differs significantly from the usual hat sizes due to a special calculation method. However, it is practically no longer used today. Hats are also made to measure, here a so-called hat conform is used, so that the head can be measured exactly.
- Contemporary fashion copper
Schuten "garnished according to the latest French fashion" (1819)
function
The most important function of the hat is its function as headgear to protect against cold, moisture or solar radiation. Today, caps, headscarves or caps (baseball caps) are often used instead of the hat. On official occasions women are still expected to wear hats.
In many cultures the hat is a symbol of social status or group membership. Covering or exposing the head often has a symbolic meaning.
Cultural history
Antiquity
The ancient Greeks mostly walked bareheaded, only the craftsman put on the round cap, the pileus . When traveling or when hunting, the noble Greeks wore the wide-brimmed Petasos or the Kausia , which could also be carried on their backs hanging on a string.
Round and pointed hats were used in the Roman Empire , especially for plays, festivals and sacred rites. In the Roman Empire the hat was raised as a symbol of freedom, which is why released slaves received a hat when they were released.
After the murder of Gaius Julius Caesar, Marcus Junius Brutus and Gaius Cassius Longinus had a hat attached to coins between two daggers, also as a symbol of freedom after autocracy. This is mimicked in the Netherlands after than you, the Spanish rule had shaken off.
It was only after Nero's death that the custom of wearing hats in everyday life became more widespread.
Middle Ages and Early Modern Times
In Germany, hats first appear in the 10th century. The straw hat is a badge of the Saxon tribe .
Various forms existed as early as the 12th century, the high medieval hat (also Myllan Cap ) and the chaperon were worn. Different types of hoods were worn in women's fashion.
From the end of the 12th and 13th centuries the so-called "hunting hat" was very popular. There have also been hat makers .
In the 14th century, the Gugel also became popular.
In the 15th century the flat beret came up, variants were the "Tudor hat" and the "German hat". The old headgear gradually disappeared.
At the end of the 16th century, “real hats” actually appeared. In Germany - as in Holland and Switzerland - people wore, among other things, high, pointed hats with a wide brim, as can still be seen on festive occasions in Tyrol and Switzerland.
In the 17th century there was the time of the large, wide-brimmed men's hats, which were often made of beaver felt ( castor hat ). First the floppy hat was fashionable in some European countries , then from France and Holland a larger and stiffer hat shape with a falling ostrich feather spread . Overall, men's hats were relatively heavily decorated at this time, with feathers or trimmings . Then the three -cornered hat came into fashion, it replaced the round, wide-brimmed hats.
At the end of the 18th century the high castor hat was introduced and then replaced by the top hat . The bicorn also replaced the tricorn.
19th and 20th centuries
From 1800 large, often richly decorated, boot hats became fashionable. They could be tied under the chin with a ribbon tied in a bow. The brims of the barges towered over the face of the fashion-conscious lady in a semicircle.
Certain men's hats were a symbol of political sentiment in the 19th century. In Sweden there was even a party called Hattarne ("hats"). Around 1848, wearing a gray felt hat with a wide brim was a sign of democracy. After 1849, wearers of these calabras (or "Hecker hats") called headgear were prosecuted in Germany.
In the second half of the 19th century, the female silhouette was supplemented by small, delicate plate hats or small cap hats . In America the cowboy hats became popular through Stetson. In England the bowler , melon, was introduced.
In 1882, the stage actress Sarah Bernhardt in the role of "Princess Fèdora Romanoff" in the play "Fédora" by the French author Victorien Sardou , made a hat into fashion among women, which from then on became world-famous as the fedora . He is u. a. worn by representatives of the women's movement.
The boater straw hats became popular at the end of the 19th century and were worn until the mid-1920s.
The relationship between dress and hat changed when dresses became narrower around 1900. Now the large hats for women appeared, which were usually richly decorated with flowers, lace or exotic feathers from birds of paradise or African ostriches . Wearing a unique hat symbolized the wealth of the women who wore it.
1920s
Around 1910 a contrary model appeared: the "Toque" ( chef's hat ), the hat in the "bell or pot shape" that was pulled low over the head. Since the second half of the 1920s, the factual, narrow pot hat dominated and was worn by all generations of women. The simple, practical and uncomplicated hat lengthened the straight silhouette of women's fashion, which was more oriented towards the sporty male than the classic female ideal of beauty. And the hairstyle, the short bob hair, made it possible to push caps and hats down to the eyes. Headgear should now also be slim and elegant like figure and dress: deep-drawn pot hats and caps or those with a smaller brim harmonized better with the simple shape of the clothes than large wagon wheels. The hat shapes from 1923 fully corresponded to the image of the objectification and masculinization of fashion and the body, as they completely covered an important symbol of femininity: the hair.
In the 1920s, the fedora also came into fashion with men, increasingly replacing the previously prevalent Homburg . For example with the high-ranking representatives of the gangster organizations during the prohibition in the USA. In 1924, Prince Edward of Britain was seen wearing a fedora. During this time the fedora had its heyday and the " trilby " variant with a narrow brim was created.
In Turkey in 1925 a social upheaval took place for men with the so-called hat revolution. State founder Kemal Ataturk initiated a ban on Fez, which was common in the Ottoman Empire . So hats came into fashion there too.
1930s / 1940s
At the beginning of the 1930s, the role of women was redefined. The great unemployment in the world economic crisis and the mother cult of the National Socialists ensured that many women were pushed out of the job and should increasingly take care of the kitchen and children.
Fashion again emphasized the feminine forms. The tight-fitting caps of the 1920s were transformed into flat hats that were placed at an angle. The hat fashion was individualistic and extravagant. The hats are strikingly asymmetrical and surprise with their crazy, playful proportions.
In the Second World War - the uniform was ubiquitous - little boats came into fashion. In the time of need of the war it was hardly possible to buy new hats: “As a result, hats - like the rest of the clothing - were self-made. Instructions 'How do I make a hat' or 'An old hat becomes new' were found in every fashion magazine. The more creative the head, the more eccentric and daring were the 'Eigenbau' designs. With a lot of imagination and the simplest of means, people tried to make up for the lack of chic clothing with fancy hat fashion. ”In the times of need in the post-war years, rubble women tied scarves in the form of simple turban, often with a knot on their heads. This protected from dirt and dust and covered the hair that was less well-groomed due to lack of soap, water and time.
1950s
At the end of the 1940s, Christian Dior coined a very feminine and lush fashion with wide skirts and wasp waists with his new look . In line with this, a highly imaginative and richly shaped hat fashion developed in the 1950s. Everything was possible: from small, playful skullcaps, to refined hat veils or Asian elements to huge, extravagant wagon wheel hats. The 1950s saw the last great bloom of hat culture. For men and women: "Without a hat you are not well dressed!"
As early as the mid-1950s, the entire hat industry was united in the “Hut Arbeitsgemeinschaft”, for which Hartwig Gottwald carried out a successful advertising campaign under the slogan “One is wearing a hat again”. He organized hat parades and straw hat tournaments in the shopping streets of the big cities and luxury resorts.
1960s and 1970s
Ingrid Loschek states that “after around 1960 headgear went out of use in both sexes” and cites the widespread use of cars, in which large hats tend to be a nuisance, and the trend towards a sporty, casual lifestyle as reasons for this. In 1961, the young and dynamic John F. Kennedy was the first US president to swear bareheaded the oath of office that Elvis Presley's iconic quiff had been flattened by his hat. Headgear lost its importance as an integral part of well-groomed clothing in the 1960s - and also its extravagance. The shape of the women's hat was simplified with the factual, geometric fashion of the 1960s - towards more simple, bell-shaped, turban-shaped or spherical shapes.
In the 1960s - before the trend towards fashionable hairstyles made wearing hats unpopular - the “trilby” became a trend again. In the first films in the James Bond series, actor Sean Connery wore a Sandown “Trilby” made by the London hatmaker “Lock & Co. Hatters” from St. James's Street. The model is still available today. But companies like Stetson (USA) still have Fedora and Trilby in their product range. To this day, the fedora and trilby are among the most popular hats of the 19th and 20th centuries.
With the cultural revolution of the 1968 movement , the women's and men's hat finally became a symbol of the staid and old-fashioned Adenauer era, of outdated role clichés and stale traditions. In the late 1960s it was no longer chic to put on a hat. One reason can be seen in the fact that with the rise of pop culture, individual hairstyles have become increasingly important as a means of expressing personal style. Classic hats were counterproductive.
In the 1970s and 1980s, headscarves, caps, hats, turbans or so-called Arafat scarves (after the leader of the Palestinian freedom movement, whose trademark was the traditional Arab scarf) were chosen as headgear. Leather and straw hats from the hippies were still in vogue . At the beginning of the 1970s there were even evening dresses with hoods as a fashionable short-term phenomenon. “In general, headgear is only worn as protection against the cold,” it was said in 1999 - almost conclusively - in the most important German fashion dictionary.
The classic hat is still worn by eccentrics or on very special occasions: weddings, funerals, etc. A well-known "hat event" is the horse race on the royal racecourse in Ascot , where the female audience competes with imaginative hat creations. The men usually wear a gray cylinder with a cutaway coat.
With the decline of the classic hat, the once not inconsiderable hat-making trade ( plastering ) lost its importance. Today it is mainly operated as a theater profession, but there are now again a few small, individual hatmaking companies where expensive headgear is made in traditional handcraft.
present
Young people introduced the American baseball cap in Germany in the 1980s . The inexpensive cap has been found in many social classes since the 1980s.
Precisely because the hat is now considered old-fashioned, it is well suited to become an eye-catcher again. At many events of the European nobility it is still mandatory.
In the early years of the new millennium there was a partial revival of headgear. It all began with young men wearing a fashionable attitude, pulling knitted hats over their ears - regardless of location and temperature. The hats are called " beanie " - probably after the English bean for "bean".
The classic men's hat has been celebrating a comeback, especially in scene circles, since around 2005. It is primarily of the "Trilby" type. It is a narrow-brimmed model. Pop musician Justin Timberlake started with this fashion, jazz singer Roger Cicero and Mehrzad Marashi ( DSDS superstar 2010) always appeared with this hat and made it their trademark. The traditional hat manufacturer Mayser offered in 2010 under the motto "A style is hat. Elegant and cool ”wear a“ Roger Cicero hat ”.
Along with the hats, the hat shops and the corresponding departments in most department stores also disappeared in many cities. In Trier , the last shop for men's hats in the city was therefore closed - one of originally over 20 - as well as a hat shop for women's hats. Both, with beginnings from around 1900, are now set up in the Roscheider Hof open-air museum .
Women's hats at a horse race in Melbourne 2007
Trilby as a fashion accessory, Rock Festival in Bonn, 2007
straw hat
Tyrolean hat (Hiashut)
classification
One differentiates among other things:
- Akubra , an Australian hat brand
- Andalusian, black men's felt hat with chin strap from Spain
- Bergère , 18th century women's hat
- Boater , a special straw hat from England
- Borsalino , an Italian hat brand, stands for classic men's hats
- Chapeau Claque or collapsible hat, a collapsible silk cylinder
- Doctoral hat
- Dorveille , top hat for women
- Dreispitz or three-masted
- Fedora , felt hat
- Florentine hat , a ladies' straw hat of the 19th century with a swinging brim made of wheat straw
- Bell hat or cloche
- Homburg , elegant, supporting the state
- Calabrian , felt hat with a pointed head
- Kapotte , a small women's hat with a chin strap from the 19th century
- Castor hat , the forerunner of the cylinder made from beaver felt
- Circular saw , flat men's straw hat with a serrated edge
- Bowler hat , bowler or derby , also bell ; mainly in England
- Miter traditional liturgical headdress of the bishops
- Panama hat , a straw hat, the material comes from a species of palm from Ecuador .
- Pork pie , a round hat with a narrow brim and a slightly turned-up brim
- Schühut , a whitewashed straw hat from the 18th century from the Black Forest
- Schute or Kiepenhut, a hood-like women's hat from the 19th century
- Sombrero , particularly wide brimmed, mainly Mexican folklore,
- Stetson , an American hat manufacturer, stands for cowboy hats
- Stößer , Austrian, the cab's hat
- Straw hat , is worn in the warm season, ladies or gentlemen hat, made of Panama straw , hemp, seaweed or other.
- Pot hat , women's felt hat that covers both ears
- Shako , former military hat
- Tweed hat , soft, casual, mostly a cloth hat
- Carpenter's hat , referred to by carpenters as a calabrian , a similar hat shape
- Bicorn (hat)
- Cylinders , made of felt or silk
Special hats
Consecrated hats
In earlier times the Pope gave away hats, which he had consecrated during Christmas mass , to deserving princes and generals or to those whom he sought to win. Field Marshal Daun received the last hat of this kind after the battle of Hochkirch .
Church hats
The pronotaries of the papal curia wear a black hat called a roman cap with tassels . The cardinals have a red hat called Galero with 15 tassels, the archbishop one with 10, the bishop one with six and the abbot one with three tassels on each side.
Prince hats
Secular princes wore the so-called prince's hat , which stood between the count's and royal crowns. The electoral hat of the German electors differed from the princely hat: it had no metal clasps.
According to Schiller's Wilhelm Tell , Landvogt Hermann Gessler attached his hat to a pole as a symbol for the sovereign himself and let the people greet him. Failure to comply could result in a penalty.
Others
On September 28, 2018, the Austrian Post issued a special postage stamp in the form of a picture of a Styrian hat embroidered from merino sheep's wool .
See also
literature
- Gisela Albrod: ( Not ) old hat. An exhibition by the Rhineland Regional Council , Rheinisches Museumamt. Rheinland-Verlag, Cologne 1986, ISBN 978-3-7927-0941-2 .
- Hilda Amphlett: Hats: a history of fashion in headwear. 1974, reprinted by Mineola, Dover Publications 2003, ISBN 978-0-486-13658-5 .
- Tobias Engelsing: Chapeau! Famous headgear from 1700–2000. On the occasion of the exhibition from July 23 to November 27, 2011, City of Konstanz 2011, ISBN 978-3-929768-29-9 .
- Landschaftsverband Westfalen-Lippe / Landschaftsverband Rheinland (Hrsg.): Hut & Co. 150 years of hat history. Bocholt 2007.
- Roswitha Mattausch-Schirmbeck: "Well protected". Accompanying document to the permanent exhibition of the hat museum in the museum of the city of Bad Homburg vd Höhe. Gothic House, Bad Homburg 1985.
- Andreas Ley: Hats: From head to hat; Headgear from the textile collection of the Munich City Museum from the 18th century to 1984. Edition Minerva, Munich 1984, OCLC 18154668 .
- Christiane Syré: In: Work & Everyday Life. Industrial culture in the Ruhr Museum . 1st edition. Verlag der Buchhandlung Walther König, Cologne 2015, ISBN 978-3-86335-821-1 , p. 33 .
Web links
- Advertisement and newspaper report ( memento from January 15, 2013 in the web archive archive.today ) on Chapeau - Famous Headgear 1700–2000. Exhibition in the Rosgarten Museum in Konstanz , July to November 2011
- Film for the cultural history exhibition The main thing is hat. 150 years of hat history in the LVR industrial museum Euskirchen (until July 8, 2012), on youtube
- Exhibition discussion on Miss Haberbeck and her hats. Creations between art nouveau and modern in the Lippisches Landesmuseum Detmold and 2000 hats. Headgear from the collection in the Munich City Museum , April to October 2000
- Timo Frasch: The hatless society , faz.net from December 9, 2011
Individual evidence
- ↑ hat, m. pileus. In: Jacob Grimm , Wilhelm Grimm (Hrsg.): German dictionary . tape 10 : H, I, J - (IV, 2nd division). S. Hirzel, Leipzig 1877, Sp. 1978–1983 ( woerterbuchnetz.de ).
- ↑ hat, f. custodia. In: Jacob Grimm , Wilhelm Grimm (Hrsg.): German dictionary . tape 10 : H, I, J - (IV, 2nd division). S. Hirzel, Leipzig 1877, Sp. 1983–1985 ( woerterbuchnetz.de ).
- ^ Hans Stahlmann: Folk linguistics. 2nd edition, Brandstetter, 1943, p. 141.
- ↑ Bibliographical Institute: Meyers Hand-Lexikon des Allgemeine Wissens in one volume: Volume 2, 1872, p. 1167.
- ↑ Brenda Grantland (Ed.): Hatatorium: An Essential Guide for Hat Collectors. 2011, ISBN 978-0-9847859-0-2 .
- ↑ Super Felt ( memento from June 16, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) on montecristihats.com, accessed on March 15, 2016.
- ↑ a b Hat Glossary on publiusforum.com, accessed March 15, 2016.
- ↑ Cervelt on cervelt.com, accessed on 15 March 2016th
- ↑ Antilopfilz ( memento of March 16, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) on muehlbauer.at, accessed on March 15, 2016.
- ↑ Kopka hat accessories ( memento from March 19, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) on kopka.de, accessed on March 15, 2016.
- ↑ Felt Quality Guide on vintagehaberdashers.com, accessed March 15, 2016.
- ↑ Packable Hats on delmonicohatters.com, accessed March 18, 2016.
- ↑ Tarphut on tarphat.de, accessed on March 16, 2016.
- ↑ Jay Atkinson: Massacre on the Merrimack. Rowman & Littlefield, 2015, ISBN 978-1-4930-0322-8 , p. 94.
- ↑ Shellac for hatters. In: Polytechnisches Journal . 178, 1865, Miszelle 11, p. 472.
- ^ The Mechanics' Magazine . Volume 18, London 1833, p. 310, limited preview in Google Book search.
- ^ Hermann Haakh, Arthur Voss: Process of Stiffening Hats and the Hats thus produced. Alien Property Custodian, Patent Applications, Serial No. 337664, 1943, online (PDF; 47 kB), The New York Public Library , accessed June 30, 2017.
- ↑ Hutanatomie on pinterest.com, accessed on 17 March 2016th
- ↑ Chinstrap on davidmorgan.com, accessed on 31 October 2016th
- ↑ cowboy hat on southtexastack.com, accessed on 31 October 2016th
- ↑ Stampede Strings ( Memento from March 6, 2017 in the Internet Archive ) on davidmorgan.biz, accessed on March 6, 2017,
- ↑ Stampede-string-info on knot-a-tail.com, accessed July 8, 2017.
- ↑ Ernestine Hutter: No stand without a hat. Series of publications on applied arts and folklore, volume 3, catalog for the 175th special exhibition, Salzburg Museum Carolino Augusteum, 1995, p. 96.
- ↑ The New Brockhaus . Second band: F-K . FA Brockhaus, Leipzig 1938, p. 457 (illustration for article hat).
- ↑ Rajkishore Nayak, Rajiv Padhye: Garment Manufacturing Technology. Woodhead Publishing, 2015, ISBN 978-1-78242-232-7 , p. 168.
- ↑ Fritz Suter: Hutlexikon . Books on Demand GmbH Switzerland, Olten 2001, ISBN 3-905054-01-9 , p. 139 , keyword mirror .
- ↑ Rose Müller-Windorf: The hat in cut and shape . Ed .: Hans-Gerhard Dobler. Gildeverlag, Alfeld / Leine 1952, Fashionable forms from the basic cut of the half-deep bell, p. 86 .
- ↑ C-Krone on kuriose-feiertage.de, accessed on March 17, 2016.
- ↑ Crown-Taper on thefedoralounge.com, accessed on 31 October 2016th
- ↑ Measure hat size ( memento from February 12, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) on muehlbauer.at, accessed on March 15, 2016.
- ↑ Hatsizes ( March 17, 2016 memento in the Internet Archive ) on hatlife.com, accessed March 15, 2016.
- ^ Beverly Chico: Hats and Headwear around the World: A Cultural Encyclopedia. ABC-Clio, 2013, ISBN 978-1-61069-062-1 , pp. 115, 259.
- ↑ Head Shape on rosieboylan.com, accessed March 16, 2016.
- ↑ Medieval and Renaissance headgear on capiti.de, accessed on April 3, 2017.
- ↑ Medieval and Renaissance headgear ( memento from April 4, 2017 in the Internet Archive ) on beaux-chapeaux.de, accessed on April 3, 2017.
- ↑ German folk costumes from the XVI. until the XIX. Century at lexikus.de, accessed on April 3, 2017.
- ↑ Raimar Kremer: Victorian Kapotte, about 1890. In: www.antique-gown.com. Retrieved February 27, 2018 .
- ↑ Ingrid Loschek: Reclam's fashion and costume dictionary . Reclam, 2011, ISBN 978-3-15-010818-5 , pp. 311 ff., 143 f .
- ↑ Schirmbeck: p. 18.
- ↑ a b c Claudia Gottfried: On the cultural history of the women's hat. In: Landschaftsverband Westfalen-Lippe / Landschaftsverband Rheinland: Hut & Co. 150 years of hat history. Bocholt 2007, pp. 17, 19.
- ↑ Erhard's consumption wave . In: Der Spiegel . No. 30 , 1955, pp. 14 ( online ).
- ↑ Björn Finke: More courage to wear a hat. In: Süddeutsche Zeitung . dated December 30, 2015, accessed March 16, 2016.
- ↑ Ingrid Loschek: Reclam's fashion and costume dictionary . ISBN 978-3-15-010818-5 , pp. 314 .
- ↑ Ingrid Loschek: Reclam's fashion and costume dictionary . ISBN 978-3-15-010818-5 , pp. 315 .
- ↑ A Styrian hat for gluing orf.at, September 28, 2018, accessed September 28, 2018.