Shoe hat
A female headgear was called a shoe hat and was worn in the fields in the county of Hauenstein and the town of Waldshut in the southern Black Forest as summer sun protection in the fields since around 1750 . In the second half of the 18th century, despite its only circumscribed local distribution, it was a hallmark of the Black Forest before the Bollenhut . The male counterpart to the Schühut was the Schnozhut .
Naming and other designations
The name Schühut means "sunshine hat". Another name was Schnörenhut comes from "Schnöre" meaning cord or trunk. The name Schnozhut is derived from "Schnoz" meaning snout.
The shoe hat as part of the folk costume
The original-looking, four-angled straw hat with rolled-up edges and a low gupf had a coating of white chalk varnish. The hat was under an inner tension that allowed a reflex mechanism with which it could be folded into a spherical shape. The early depictions still show a simple straw hat with a wavy brim. In the 1780s, the waves were pulled up to the characteristic shape and fixed to the crest on the right with a strut.
The only difference to the men’s schnoz hat, which was of the same shape and also limed, was an artificial flower application on the front lobes. Early depictions of the Hauenstein sunshine hat before 1800 show a unisex model.
A bonnet or cap tied under the chin was often worn under the shoe . On the other hand, single women used a decorated crown-like headpiece, the so-called Schäppel , on festive days .
The disappearance of the shoe
The Schühut and Schnozhut have not been worn since the middle of the 19th century. Initially, the male variant, the Schnozhut, was lost until around 1820. Joseph Bader reported in 1843 that from Dogern to Murg , the Black Forest women replaced the Schühhat with a small straw hat. The Hauenstein traditional costume can only be found in the back of the mountains, for example in the Herrischried area . But even here the shoe got lost before the turn of the 20th century. The manufacturing processes were forgotten. Only a few copies have been preserved in the folklore collections of the regional museums.
The shoe hat in the costume representation
| Geographical distribution of the shoe (yellow) | |
|---|---|
 |
|
| District: | Waldshut |
| Municipalities: | Laufenburg , Murg , Dogern , Waldshut , Rickenbach , Herrischried , Dachsberg , Weilheim , Todtmoos , Höchenschwand |
One of the earliest depictions of Hauenstein's costume can be found on a sketch sheet by Baron Dominique-Vivant Denon dated June 1775 , which was auctioned at Christies in 2007 under the title A young peasant girl standing in front of a tree . The hat on this picture still shows itself as a flat straw hat with a fourfold waved broad brim.
The oldest depictions of the boot include two copper engravings based on drawings by Samuel Gränicher , edited by Christian von Mechel , who in his “Suite de différens costumes de paysans et paysannes de la Suisse” in 1783 described a young Black Forest peasant couple harvesting grain in the Rhine valley Background of the southern Black Forest depicted on individual images. These illustrations were varied several times in France from 1785 by Jacques Grasset de Saint-Sauveur (1757–1810) in his ethnographic works and in the period around 1800 they characterized the image of the Black Forests. Among the traditional costumes of Joseph Reinhart (1739–1824) kept in the Historical Museum in Bern, there are three depictions of Schühut and Schnozhut wearers from 1793. A large number of small sculptures with hats from Hauenstein country women were made around 1800 in the monastery of St. Blasien. The last representations of the boot can be found in the pictures of the local painter Johann Baptist Tuttiné (1838–1889), who lived in Rickenbach in the 1880s . It is questionable whether the boot was still worn at that time. In many cases, Tuttiné reconstructed and, if necessary, had old costumes re-tailored.
literature
- H. Rott: On traditional costumes from Baden in the 18th and 19th centuries , Ekkhart 6, 1925, pp. 69–85.
- Wilhelm Fladt: The folk costume of the Hotzenwald , in: Badische Heimat, 19th year, 1932, pp. 205–213
- M. Riffel: The development of the traditional hood in the southern part of the Upper Rhine region , 1940
- H. Schmitt: Volkstracht in Baden , 1988, pp. 52-59.
Individual evidence
- ^ Wilhelm Fladt: Die Volkstracht des Hotzenwaldes, in: Badische Heimat, 19th year, 1932, pp. 205-213
- ^ Joseph Bader: Badische Volkssitten und Trachten, Kunstverlag Karlsruhe, 1843
- ↑ http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/drawings-watercolors/baron-dominique-vivant-denon-a-young-peasant-girl-4963676-details.aspx
- ↑ https://www.helveticarchives.ch/detail.aspx?ID=480226 and https://www.helveticarchives.ch/detail.aspx?ID=480225
- ^ Anton Englert: Early traditional costumes from our homeland, in: Heimat am Hochrhein - year book of the district of Waldshut, 1985, pp. 189–192.
- ^ Catalog for the State Exhibition St. Paul 1991, Volume 1, p. 376f.