Bollenhut

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Expert in costume, 1898
Ludovico Wolfgang Hart Three Gutacher Girls, 1864
Théodore Valerio, Hornberger in Tracht, 1841

A straw hat is called a Bollenhut and has been part of the traditional costume of Protestant women in the three neighboring Black Forest villages of Gutach , Kirnbach and Hornberg-Reichenbach in the Ortenau district since around 1800 . With its attached bolls made of wool , the picturesque-looking red Bollenhut became a symbol of the entire Black Forest , although it is only widespread in a relatively small area there.

Bollen hat as part of the national costume

The wide-brimmed, whitewashed straw hat bears 14 striking, cross-shaped bolls made of wool. But only eleven balls are visible, because three are covered by those above. The balls have five different sizes. The significance of the bulls and their number is not known; the reference to the fourteen helpers in need seems implausible, since the Bollen hats come from Protestant communities and the Bollen hats are only documented after the Reformation at the end of the 18th century. The three villages belonged to the Duchy of Württemberg and had been Protestant since 1534, the other communities in the Kinzig valley remained Catholic. In the three poor villages hat-making was introduced to create jobs.

The bolls are red for unmarried women and black for married women. The Bollenhut originally weighed around 500 grams and can now weigh up to two kilograms and is handcrafted by hat makers. The girls are allowed to wear the red Bollenhut for the first time at confirmation . The production of the Bollen is a simple handicraft work. Woolen thread is wrapped around a center-perforated round cardboard disc and then cut all around.

A silk bonnet , which is tied under the chin, is worn under the Bollenhut . Little girls and old women only wear the hood. At present, the Bollenhut and the associated costume are still worn on festive days and traditional events. The Bollenhut can be visited all year round with the associated costume z. B. in the Black Forest costume museum in Haslach im Kinzigtal .

Spread as a symbol of the Black Forest

Traditional costume wearers in the Black Forest open-air museum Vogtsbauernhof , 2015

At the end of the 18th century, the Black Forest costume was associated with various bonnets, the Schühut and Gupfhut common in the county of Hauenstein . These hat shapes, which became known throughout Europe through several stitch sequences, were generally discarded by the middle of the 19th century. The first pictorial evidence of a forerunner of the Bollenhut can be found around 1820 in the Schreiber picture series on a representation of the mutton dance in Hornberg and around 1840 by Joseph Bader . In 1841, after a study trip through the Black Forest with the Fréres Gihaut in Paris, Théodore Valerio published a lithograph with a couple in costume from Hornberg, which showed an early version of the Bollenhut for the first time in France. At the end of the 1850s, the Strasbourg illustrator and draftsman Charles Lallemand discovered the Gutacher costume with the unusual Bollenhut, which he published in the Paysans Badois costume factory in 1860 . In the gallery universelle des peuples , edited by Lallemand together with the photographer Ludovico Wolfgang Hart , the first photographs of the Gutacher costume with the Bollenhut and the now forgotten original men's costume were published. After Gutach was connected to the Baden Black Forest Railway in 1873 , artists such as Wilhelm Hasemann , Curt Liebich and Fritz Reiss , who formed the Gutach artist colony , settled there. They discovered the Gutacher costume as an artistic subject , their works found mass distribution and shaped the image of the Black Forest. Like the local writer Heinrich Hansjakob , they were part of a Baden folk costume movement. At the turn of the 20th century, in particular, Hasemann's picture After going to church , which showed Bollenhut wearers, was widely published in illustrated magazines and picture postcards.

Grand Duchess Luise von Baden wore the Bollenhut during her visits to the Black Forest in the 1860s, making it popular. The popularity of the Bollenhut as incorrectly typical of the Black Forest increased after it was temporarily displaced from 1911 by the homeland films of the 1950s and 1960s, especially the Black Forest girl from 1950 with Sonja Ziemann . This first German color film of the post-war period was one of the most successful German films ever with an estimated 15 million viewers. In 1950 and 1982 the three communities of origin tried in vain to limit the use of the Bollenhut to the narrower region by filing a patent application and by making advances to the state government.

Pop Culture

For a few years now, the Bollenhut has been the focus of pop culture and various artists. The artist and photographer Sebastian Wehrle triggered a lot of discussions about the depiction of the Bollenhut with his photographs. For the well-known drag queen Betty BBQ from Freiburg im Breisgau , the Bollenhut has become a distinguishing mark. She caricatures tourist clichés from the Black Forest in a loving way and represents her motto "Home is not just black and white" . In order not to defame traditional Black Forest costumes, Betty BBQ always combines her outfits with various traditional costumes , for example her dirndls are sometimes reminiscent of classic traditional costumes, which she always matches to the color scheme of the Black Forest costume.

literature

  • Greetings from the Black Forest , Association for the Preservation of Folk Costumes in the Gutach Valley and Kinzig Valley (ed.), Karlsruhe undated (1894)
  • Curt Liebich: The costumes of the Kinziggau , Ekkart. Calendar for Badner Land 2, 1921, pp. 37–55. (PDF)
  • Albert Reinhardt, Eugen Falk: The Gutacher Bollenhut , color photo series V 5th booklet. Baden State Image Office, Karlsruhe 1968
  • Ludwig Vögely: Emma Falk-Breitenbach, the last Bollenhut maker for her 75th birthday , Ekkart. Yearbook for the Badner Land, 1972, pp. 175–178
  • Ansgar Barth: The Gutacher Tracht , in: 700 years Gutach. 1275-1975 , pp. 29-33
  • Erik Turnwald: The Kirnbacher Ortstracht , in: 700 years Kirnbach, 1275-1975 , p. 43–47
  • J.-L. Debionne, T. Meissner: The most beautiful German costumes , Süddeutscher Verlag, Munich 1987, ISBN 3-7991-6379-4 , p. 29
  • Heinz Schmitt: The Bollenhut - an example , in: Folk costumes in Baden: their role in art, the state, economy and society for 2 centuries. Badenia Verlag, Karlsruhe 1988, ISBN 3-7617-0248-5 , pp. 123-135
  • Heinz Schmitt: The Bollenhut costume. Development, maintenance, marketing. In: Die Ortenau: Journal of the Historical Association for Middle Baden , 69th annual volume. 1989, pp. 440–458 digitized
  • Brigitte Heck: A hat makes a career. In: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe (Ed.): Baden! 900 years - stories of a country. Info-Verlag, Karlsruhe 2012, ISBN 978-3-937345-56-7 , p. 256
  • Schmidt, Doris, Black Forest - red Bollenhut - costume and brand , clothing cultures of the world Vol. 3, Baltmannsweiler, 2015. ISBN 978-3-8340-1414-6

Web links

Commons : Bollenhut  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Wiktionary: Bollenhut  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Katja Marx: With red balls - The Black Forest Bollenhut is in danger. DIE ZEIT, March 5, 1993, accessed on June 28, 2017 .
  2. ^ Tourismus Marketing GmbH Baden-Württemberg (ed.): Traces of the Reformation in Baden-Württemberg . ISBN 978-3-935983-69-3 , pp. 20-21 .
  3. ↑ Uli Fricker: fashion show with Martin Luther. In: "Südkurier", September 9, 2017.
  4. ↑ Heinz Schmitt: The Bollenhut - An example. In: Folk costumes in Baden: their role in art, the state, the economy, etc. Society since 2nd century. Badenia Verlag, Karlsruhe 1988, p. 124f.
  5. ↑ Brigitte Heck: A hat makes a career. In: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe (Ed.): Baden! 900 years - stories of a country. Info-Verlag, Karlsruhe 2012, ISBN 978-3-937345-56-7 , p. 256 (catalog for the major state exhibition)
  6. ↑ Heinz Schmitt: The Bollenhut - An example. In: Folk costumes in Baden: their role in art, the state, the economy, etc. Society since 2nd century.Badenia Verlag, Karlsruhe 1988, p. 125.
  7. ↑ Heinz Schmitt: The Bollenhut - An example. In: Folk costumes in Baden: their role in art, the state, the economy, etc. Society since 2nd century. Badenia Verlag, Karlsruhe 1988, p. 133f.
  8. ↑ https://www.stuttgarter-zeitung.de/inhalt.fotografie-bollenhut-20.f0f2e750-53d4-4330-a20f-f146777fae4e.html
  9. ↑ https://www.pz-news.de/kultur_artikel,-Fernab-vom-Schwarzwald-Kitsch-_arid,1186536.html
  10. ↑ https://www.bo.de/lokales/ortenau/schwarzwald-im-wandel#
  11. ↑ https://betty-bbq.com/cms/betty-bbq/
  12. ↑ https://www.swr.de/heimat/freiburg/Dragqueen-Betty-BBQ-blas-mit-Bollenhut-in-Freiburg-dass-Heimat-fuer-alle-da-ist,av-o1147653-100.html