Cowl (clothing)
The Gugel , also in Middle High German : gogel , kogel , kugel (from Old High German cucula , from Latin cucullus " bag ", " hood ", "cap"), is a piece of clothing that can be traced back to the High Middle Ages and was worn by men and women. She was probably the namesake for the Gugelhupf .
The Gugel was a hood-like headgear or helmet that also covered the shoulders and was made of various materials, especially wool .
The Limburg Chronicle mentions the “big balls” for the year 1351, then it says of 1362: “The young men mostly all carried buttoned balls than the women. And these bullets lasted more than thirty years, then they passed ”. The same chronicle mentions from 1389: “The women wore Bohemian balls , they went on in these countries. The Kogeln stormed a woman on her head and stood in front of them, mountain over her head, as one paints the saints with the tiara. "
history
Fashionable change of the cowl
While it was initially primarily a piece of everyday clothing for farmers, hunters and travelers, wearing the Gugel became fashionable among the nobility from the 14th century, first in Germany, later also in France and Italy. As part of this close-fitting Hood with pearls and precious stones was occupied with mottos embroidered or decorated with an overly long tail, the liripipe, and from about 1365 and preferably Zaddeln , later also by bells , but this subsided again, and finally, only as a sign of entertainers such as B. received fools .
The fabrics used were in bright colors, including Mi-Parti . For the period around 1390, red colored embroideries are documented in contemporary image sources, for example in the wall paintings at Runkelstein Castle near Bozen . The collar was usually open at the front, but it could be closed with buttons (which were still quite new-fangled at the time) on the neck, occasionally with a button strip along the entire length.
Towards the end of the 14th century, the original way of wearing a hood was abandoned by the higher classes and only retained by the common people. Instead, in the course of the late Gothic period, numerous alternative ways of wearing were established, in which, among other things, wearing with the headhole first on the head led to the development of one's own headgear, the cappuccio in Italy or the chaperon in France. The neck protection and the bandage could hang down loosely around the head and shoulders, or rolled up to form a turban-like structure. Later variants, such as the southern German fringed gugel, led in a similar manner to the hat with fringes known from the portrait of Albrecht Dürer around 1500.
At the same time, open bonnet forms developed that could be worn by women without removing their linen or silk bonnet, but were more common in the left bank of the Rhine and in northern Germany. Gugel in general, and closed Gugel in particular, can be classified quite clearly on the basis of city ordinances and a lack of image sources as a male piece of clothing, which women viewed as frowned upon and unjust.
In the 15th century, the Gugel developed into two separate pieces of clothing: the Goller collar , the pointed cap from the head piece . In the rural population, however, the Gugel was also worn until the 16th century, sometimes as mourning clothing .
The name of the Bavarian secret society Guglmänner is derived from this piece of clothing, they still wear a black hood at ritual gatherings, which completely covers their head and shoulders.
From the Gugel to the Gugelhupf
The yeast pastry Gugelhupf got its name - as Schmeller speculates in his Bavarian dictionary - from the hood-like headdress Gugel . He quoted from a reprint of the Innsbruck 1637 song mocking DieTeütsch-Frantzösin: "A wonderful high Gogelhopf covered with bändtlein, she wears auff her proud head krum back and resist pogo". In 1701 Selhamer also reported in his Tuba Rustica of women with their high Gogelhopff on their heads .
Gugel as a helmet
From the men's fashion the Limburg Chronicle reported: " The dog balls led knights and servants, burgers and horsemen people , chest, and smooth leg garment to storm and Streitten, and no shields even sign ." The Hundsgugel was a helmet with a visor , which at a dog's snout reminds us, the Limburg Chronicle also serves as a source.
heraldry
This headgear can also be found in heraldry in the coat of arms as a common figure . In the city of Güglingen it is a talking coat of arms . An old Munich seal shows a monk's head with a cowl.
See also
literature
- Katrin Kania: Overlooked - misunderstood - forgotten. The cowl in words, pictures, findings and experiments . Bamberg 2003 (Master's thesis, Bamberg, Otto Friedrich University).
- Cowl. In: Ingrid Loschek : Reclams Mode and Costume Lexicon. 5th, updated and expanded edition. Reclam, Stuttgart 2005, ISBN 3-15-010577-3 .
Web links
- Hoods, Chaperons and Liripipes on personal.utulsa.edu (finds of medieval cowls)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Runkelstein Castle, accessed on www.runkelstein.info on April 17, 2014.
- ↑ File: Self-Portrait, by Albrecht Dürer, from Prado in Google Earth.jpg
- ^ Johann Andreas Schmeller: Bavarian Dictionary: With a scientific introduction to the Leipzig 1939 edition . Walter de Gruyter GmbH & Co KG, 2014, ISBN 978-3-486-84570-9 , p. 880 ( google.de [accessed December 28, 2018]).
- ↑ Christoph Selhamer: TUBA RUSTICA. That is: New preaching, where on every Sunday of the year miraculous deeds of love and life, ... First part . in Verlag Georg Schlüters, Buchhändlers, 1701, p. 83 ( google.de [accessed December 27, 2018]).
- ^ Johann Andreas Schmeller: Bavarian Dictionary: Collection of words and expressions used in the living dialects as well as in the older and oldest provincial literature of the Kingdom of Bavaria ... Cotta, 1828, p. 22 ( google.de [accessed December 27, 2018]).
- ↑ Boeheim, Wendelin: Handbuch der Waffenkunde: the weapon system in its historical development from the beginning of the Middle Ages to the end of the 18th century (Leipzig, 1890). In: uni-heidelberg.de. Retrieved December 27, 2018 .
- ↑ Wendelin Boeheim: Handbook of Armament . 2017, p. 35 ( google.de [accessed December 27, 2018]).