Costume jewelry
Under Fashion Jewelry is meant jewelry , the current fashion trends and thereby receives is inexpensive to manufacture. The term is also associated with the idea of “democratizing” jewelry as a status symbol .
Definition of the term costume jewelry
The word "costume jewelry" originated in the 1920s when Coco Chanel designed "fake" jewelry to match her collections. However, the lion's share of costume jewelry was and is not made by fashion designers, but designed and manufactured in large factories. From the end of the 19th to the middle of the 20th century, the most important fashion jewelry centers were far from all fashion capitals, namely in Pforzheim, Schwäbisch Gmünd, Idar-Oberstein, Gablonz, Providence / USA and later also in Neugablonz. Costume jewelry is serially produced jewelry made of simple materials in a contemporary design, which was and is affordable for a large number of people. The combination of different raw materials in different shapes, colors and diverse surface effects enables a very large variety of products.
history
In terms of the above Criteria (series, simple materials, contemporary design), the phenomenon of costume jewelry goes back a long way in human history. The earliest known form were ancient Egyptian glass beads , which were colored so that they looked like semi-precious stones . An invoice from 1569 proves that Queen Elizabeth I ordered 520 wax pearls at the price of one penny each , which were probably sewn onto her clothes. The first great epoch of fashion jewelry was triggered by the Parisian jeweler Georges Frédéric Strass , who came from Strasbourg around 1730. He developed a glass paste that was hard enough to be cut with a brilliant cut. The first industrially mass-produced counter-movement to real jewelry was the Berlin iron , which reached its peak from 1810 to 1840. Pig iron was processed into jewelry, the value lay solely in its delicacy and ornamental imagination of the design language. Paris became the hub for iron fashion jewelry coming from Berlin and Gleiwitz, which also inspired Paris, London and New York. Since the Berlin Iron Age at the latest, there has been a worldwide market for fashion jewelry with all the necessary sales structures.
In the centers of the European monarchies , London , Paris , Berlin and Saint Petersburg , a number of fashion magazines based on the American model developed at the end of the 19th century. - Harper's Bazaar was published in New York in 1867. The first edition of Vogue appeared in Paris in 1892 - which quickly achieved very high print runs and primarily described the fashionable tendencies of the courts. A particularly productive field of reporting was the courtly mourning rituals and their dress codes, which were often used due to the very close family ties of the European royal houses, and thus already anticipated the automatisms of speed and ephemerality of the later emerging fashion trends.
Jewelry played an important role in the canon of courtly mourning regulations, and the courts of this time also favored jewelry made of inexpensive materials such as iron , jet , onyx or black glass , which facilitated the mediation and success in the broader society. The first manufactories for the production of jewelry as mass-produced goods emerged.
Haute couture , which was developing as an economic factor (not least because of the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 ) , meant that a large number of crafts experienced an immense upswing. So glassmakers and belters got used to the production of jewelry. As early as 1865 Napoleone Corbella began in Milan with the production of semi-finished products made of brass for the production of theater jewelry for the Italian opera houses and later also to supply the first fashion houses in Milan. The jewelry manufacturers in the conventional sector also reacted to the changed demand in the field of fashion and switched more and more to industrial production. During this time, important centers for the manufacture of costume jewelery emerged, for example in Pforzheim, which served the world market in particular with doublé products, or the Gablonz industry in Gablonz in the Czech Republic.
Paris
In 1911 Coco Chanel opened her first fashion house in Paris . A first high point in the design and use of costume jewelry is associated with her name. She was the first to see costume jewelry as an integral part of her creations and to use it as a design element. Her aim was no longer the most deceptive imitation of jewels, but the aesthetic effect. From 1954 Robert Goossen was chief designer at Chanel.
In 1928 Elsa Schiaparelli opened her fashion house in Paris. Her creations were created in close contact with the leading artistic currents of the time, Dadaism and Surrealism , in some cases even with the collaboration of artists such as Salvador Dalí , Jean Cocteau , Man Ray and others. a. Elsa Schiaparelli's costume jewelery was no longer an imitation, but represents an autonomous artistic claim and thus something new in the fashion world.
criticism
German authorities and consumer advocates have repeatedly identified excessive amounts of lead , cadmium or other pollutants in contemporary costume jewelry . Frequent wearing of costume jewelery is also associated with the development of contact allergies .
literature
- Karl Frohme: Jewelery and costume jewelery in history: forms of jewelery, small arts and crafts and trade through the millennia
- Anne-Barbara Knerr: Zeitgeist. 100 years of fashion jewelry from Idar-Oberstein , Stuttgart 2009
- Weber, Christiane and Möller, Renate: Fashion and costume jewelry 1920-1970 in Germany. 1999.
- In short, Sabine and Packer, Mary Sue: Strass. International costume jewelery from the beginning until today. 1997.
- Rasche, Adelheid and Bommert, Britta: Luxury for Fashion. International fashion jewelry from the Fior Collection, 1950-1990. Bilingual edition: German and English. Koehler & Amelang, Leipzig 2013, ISBN 978-3-7338-0392-6
- Rehle, Norbert: Economic and institutional change in Europe's fashion jewelry regions. Dissertation. 2003
Individual evidence
- ↑ Lino Wirag: Gift in costume jewelry: What you should know and pay attention to. February 19, 2020, accessed August 24, 2020 .
- ^ Robert Koch Institute: Frequency of allergic diseases in Germany. 2013, accessed August 24, 2020 .
