Elsa Schiaparelli

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Schiaparelli logo in the characteristic "Shocking pink"

Elsa Schiaparelli (born September 10, 1890 in Rome , † November 13, 1973 in Paris ) was an Italian - French fashion designer .

Live and act

Schiaparelli came from a wealthy family of Piedmontese scholars, as the daughter of the orientalist Celestino Schiaparelli and niece of the astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli . According to her autobiography, she had far more amorous relationships in her youth than was common in Italy at the time. She moved to London, where she married Count Wilhelm de Wendt de Kerlor, and finally to New York, where she befriended Gabrielle , wife of Dada artist Francis Picabia . In this circle she met other artists such as Man Ray and Marcel Duchamp . After her husband left her in 1920 because of an affair with Isadora Duncan , she returned largely destitute from the United States to Europe in 1922 and settled in Paris.

In 1927 Elsa Schiaparelli discovered a woman in Paris who was wearing a simple but unusually knitted sweater and found out that it had been made by an Armenian woman with a special double-layer stitch. Schiaparelli then recruited the Armenian to produce several prototypes, including a black sweater with a white knitted bow. This sweater by the writer Anita Loos caught the eye at a lunch that was attended by several greats from the fashion industry . Anita Loos had good relationships and sent her friends and acquaintances to Schiaparelli, including a. Joan Crawford , Gloria Swanson , Greta Garbo , Norma Shearer and Mae West . As a result, Schiaparelli had to hire several Armenian knitters to meet the demand for sweaters.

In 1928 she was able to open her first shop and it was a great success. Five years later she already had eight boutiques in Paris and one in London . She brought Surrealism and Dadaism into fashion, it was said of her. Anyone who had rank and name had themselves dressed with her, one of her most important sponsors was Daisy Fellowes . She developed the perfumes "Shocking" and "Si" (for the latter there is even a song "Valse de Si" by Henri Sauguet , which was interpreted by Juliette Gréco ). Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dalí were friends with her, and Jean Cocteau designed fabric samples for them.

In 1936 she brought the zipper into haute couture . Also in the 1930s she made the so-called Dianadekolleté socially acceptable , in which one shoulder was completely exposed. As one of the first fashion designers, she not only designed items of clothing, but also accessories: gloves, scarves, jewelry, watches and swimsuits carried her label (which was still called "label" at the time).

With the outbreak of World War II , she had to leave Paris and emigrated to New York . In 1945 she returned to Paris and found that fashion had changed after the war: minimalism was “in”, the simplicity of Coco Chanel's creations was considered “chic”, and Schiaparelli's colorful, glittering, “surrealistic” style had it obsolete. In 1952 she had to close her studio. However, her apartment remained a meeting place for the Parisian fashion world.

Her granddaughters were the actress Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson and the photographer Berry Berenson , who was married to the actor Anthony Perkins from 1973 until his death in 1992.

In January 2014, 180 lots from Elsa Schiaparelli's art collection were put up for auction by Marisa Berenson in Paris at Christie's .

Exhibitions

  • 2003: SHOCKING! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli . Philadelphia Museum of Art , September 28, 2003 - January 4, 2004.
  • 2012: Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations . The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, May 10 - August 19, 2012.

literature

  • Dilys E. Blum: Shocking! The art and fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli. Book accompanying the exhibition of the same name. Yale University Press, New Haven, Conn. & London 2003, ISBN 0-300-10066-3 .
  • Ingrid Loschek: Reclam's fashion and costume lexicon. 5th edition, Reclam, Stuttgart 2005, ISBN 3-15-010577-3 , pp. 570f.
  • Elsa Schiaparelli: Shocking Life - The autobiography of Elsa Schiaparelli. Parthas, Berlin 2014, ISBN 978-3-86964-084-6 .
  • NJ Stevenson: The History of Fashion. Styles, trends and stars. Haupt, Bern et al. 2011, ISBN 978-3-258-60032-1 , p. 122f.
  • Judith Watt: Vogue on: Elsa Schiaparelli. Coll. Rolf Heyne, Munich 2013, ISBN 978-3-89910-565-0 .
  • Palmer White: Elsa Schiaparelli: empress of Paris fashion. Rizzoli, New York 1986, ISBN 0-8478-0752-5 .

Movie

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Stevenson: The History of Fashion. Haupt, Bern et al. 2011, p. 122.
  2. ↑ Schiaparelli's revolutionary legacy . The New York Times . September 19, 2003. Retrieved December 14, 2018
  3. ↑ The glamorous avant-garde . The daily newspaper . December 6, 2014. Accessed December 13, 2018
  4. ↑ a b SHOCKING! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli. ( Memento of the original from May 29, 2008 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Philadelphia Museum of Art . September 28, 2003 - January 4, 2004. p. 5. Accessed December 14, 2018 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.philamuseum.org
  5. ↑ Bowknot Sweater: Elsa Schiaparelli designer . Schoolhouse Press. Retrieved December 14, 2018
  6. ↑ This is what knitwear looks like this winter . The standard . December 14, 2018
  7. ^ The Personal Collection of Elsa Schiaparelli. In: Christie's Paris, January 23, 2014, photo gallery of the exhibition.
  8. ↑ Shocking! The Art and Fashion of Elsa Schiaparelli. In: Philadelphia Museum of Art , 2003, (PDF; 22 p., 528 kB)
  9. ↑ Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada. In: vogue .de , May 8, 2012.
personal data
SURNAME Schiaparelli, Elsa
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Schiap (nickname)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian-French fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH September 10, 1890
PLACE OF BIRTH Rome
DATE OF DEATH November 13, 1973
Place of death Paris