John Galliano

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John Galliano CBE (born November 28, 1960 in Gibraltar ; actually Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano Guillén ) is a British fashion designer .

Galliano is one of the most successful British fashion designers; he is considered the costume designer among fashion designers . His flounced robes , with which he also made his breakthrough in the international fashion world, are particularly pompous and extravagant . The fashion brand John Galliano , established in London in 1984, still exists today with John Galliano SA, which was newly founded in Paris in 1994 , has been majority owned by Christian Dior since 1996 and has been managed without Galliano since 2011. Galliano has been Creative Director at Maison Margiela since October 2014 and has been chief designer both at his own fashion brand and at the traditional Parisian companies Givenchy and Dior over the course of his career .

Beginnings and founding of "John Galliano"

Galliano's father, a plumber, was from Gibraltar and his mother, a dancer, was Spanish. Galliano, who has two sisters, moved with his family to South London when he was six , where he attended school and then college . He started studying design at St. Martin's School of Arts in 1981 and only introduced him to fashion design in his senior year. He graduated in 1984 with honors. As a thesis, he showed a fashion collection under the name "Les Incroyables" (dt: The Incredibles ), which was influenced by the French Revolution and was bought by the renowned London fashion store Brown's. In the same year, the then still young designer founded his own fashion company called John Galliano with the financial support of an investor. The then Harper's Bazaar editor Amanda Harlech advised Galliano for twelve years before moving to Karl Lagerfeld as a consultant in 1996 . From 1985 Galliano showed his unconventional designs at London Fashion Week. In the same year he hired the tailor Bill Gaytten, who was to become a long-term companion. In 1986 the first investor withdrew and Galliano received financial support from a Danish entrepreneur, who ended the cooperation in 1991. Galliano himself became a well-known member of the London party scene during this period.

In 1987 Galliano was named British Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards. In 1994, 1995 and 1997 (together with Alexander McQueen ) this award was given to him again. His career had first received national and then international acclaim. After a financially difficult period in the 1980s, which led him to bankruptcy several times , Galliano showed his designs for the first time at the Paris fashion shows in 1990 with the help of a new investor and relocated his company from London to Paris in 1992. This investor withdrew in 1993. The internationally renowned fashion editors Anna Wintour and André Leon Talley, who recognized Galliano's talent, then brought him new money. At the Galliano show in the same year, on Wintour's initiative, the models Kate Moss , Christy Turlington and Naomi Campbell ran without payment for Galliano, who thus achieved great attention in the fashion industry with his collection.

Newspaper-designed Galliano gown for Dior
( Royal Ontario Museum , exhibited 2011)

Chief Designer at Givenchy

In the early 1990s, LVMH's owner , Bernard Arnault , became aware of Galliano and, to the astonishment of the fashion scene, appointed him in 1995 to succeed Hubert de Givenchy as chief designer at Givenchy. In 1996 LVMH took over a majority stake in the then newly founded John Galliano SA; Galliano himself retained a minority stake in his company.

Chief Designer at Dior

In 1997 Galliano von Arnault, also owner of the Dior brand, was appointed as the successor to Gianfranco Ferré as chief designer of women's fashion at Christian Dior. The first Galliano Dior model was worn by Princess Diana at the Dior 50th Anniversary exhibition at New York's Met Costume Institute . Galliano subsequently created bombastic, sometimes scandalous haute couture gowns for Dior, with which Dior regularly made it onto the front pages of the international press, no less eccentric prêt-à-porter models and commercially extremely successful accessories , such as the so-called saddle bag and Gaucho Bag handbags . From the beginning of the 2000s, Arnault expanded Galliano's competencies into other business areas of the Dior company, such as accessories, perfume and marketing. Galliano himself was known for the fact that he presented himself on the catwalk in exaggerated costumes and in an exalted manner at the end of his fashion shows. In 2001 Galliano was appointed Commander of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II . His annual income at Dior and the Galliano brand at the time was over 7 million euros.

The website for the John Galliano brand went online in 2002, the first Galliano boutique opened in Paris in 2003, and in the same year Galliano men's clothing was presented for the first time, which was shown at the Milan Fashion Weeks from 2010 . In 2006, the second line galliano by John Galliano was launched in collaboration with IT Holding , and in 2007 Galliano children's clothing came onto the market under license. In 2008, the women's fragrance John Galliano by John Galliano was launched for the first time by Galliano.

On February 25, 2011, Galliano was temporarily suspended by Dior because he had insulted several guests in a Parisian restaurant with anti-Semitic statements when he was drunk. On March 1, 2011, Dior announced the final split. With that he also lost his position as chief designer at the John Galliano brand. Galliano had to answer in court because of the incident in Paris. During the trial, he testified that he was under enormous professional pressure, drinking more and more and taking pills. On September 8, 2011, the Paris criminal court sentenced him to a fine of 6000 euros on probation. Galliano sued the House of Dior for 18.7 million euros in damages after his dismissal, but lost the case for good in November 2014. He was even sentenced to pay Dior a symbolic euro, as was John Galliano SA, which bears his name but belongs to Dior. In 2012, French President François Hollande withdrew the title of Knight of the French Legion of Honor from the fashion designer by decree , which he had been awarded in 2009. After Galliano's departure, his work at the Galliano fashion brand was taken over by his colleague Gaytten, who was also responsible for women's fashion designs at Christian Dior on an interim basis until Raf Simons was appointed chief designer at Dior in 2012.

New beginning

At the beginning of 2013, Galliano worked for a few weeks in the design studio of the American fashion designer Oscar de la Renta . A course scheduled for mid-2013 at New York's Parsons The New School for Design under the direction of Galliano was canceled after a petition by students against Galliano. In October 2013 the British Vogue invited Galliano as a guest editor to design a fashion series with Kate Moss for the magazine. In late 2013, Galliano was hired as the costume designer for the theatrical performances of Stephen Fry's version of The Importance of Being Earnest in London in 2014. In mid-2014 it became known that the Russian perfumery chain had employed L'Etoile Galliano as a consultant. In October 2014, the Italian owner of the fashion brand Maison Martin appointed Margiela Galliano, who has been described as "undisputedly one of the greatest creative talents of all time", as creative director. In January 2015 he showed the first collection for his new employer in London.

Bill Gaytten has been the chief designer of the John Galliano fashion brand since 2011. In 2015, the brand identity and the logo of the John Galliano brand were renewed by Christian Dior SA without Galliano's involvement, and the collections for women and men were divided into a main and a secondary collection.

Web links

Commons : John Galliano  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Company Overview of John Galliano SA , businessweek.com, accessed: August 23, 2013
  2. ↑ Iconic Met Ball Gowns , time.com, May 2, 2012
  3. ^ John Galliano Wins Hearing in $ 18M Suit on Firing Over Anti-Semitism , forward.com, Feb.5, 2013
  4. ↑ # 93; = 177343 & a = 1 Galliano starts with men's fashion ( memento of the original from November 26, 2013 in the web archive archive.today ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, June 26, 2003  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.textilwirtschaft.de
  5. ^ John Galliano Arrest: Full Statement from Dior , forbes.com, February 25, 2011
  6. ^ Film of John Galliano's racist rant in cash. In: The Sun . February 28, 2011, accessed March 1, 2011 .
  7. ↑ John Galliano sacked by fashion house Dior. March 1, 2011, accessed March 1, 2011 .
  8. ↑ AFP: Anti-Semitic rabble: John Galliano gets away with a mild sentence , Stern.de. September 8, 2011. 
  9. ^ John Galliano Wins Hearing in $ 18M Suit on Firing Over Anti-Semitism , forward.com, Feb.5, 2013
  10. ↑ Christian Schubert: Anyone who says "I love Hitler" can be fired. In: FAZ . November 5, 2014, accessed July 24, 2015 .
  11. ↑ Fashion designer Galliano no longer Knights of the Legion of Honor In: Focus , August 24, 2012, accessed on August 1, 2013
  12. ^ A Second Chance, but on His Own , nytimes.com, June 7, 2013
  13. ↑ Parsons cancels designer John Galliano's class , cnn.com, May 8, 2013
  14. ↑ Galliano And Moss: Go Inside December's Vogue , vogue.co.uk, October 30, 2013
  15. ^ Galliano Teams Up With Stephen Fry , vogue.co.uk, December 11, 2013
  16. ↑ Confirmed: Galliano Moves Into Beauty , vogue.co.uk, May 16, 2014
  17. ↑ John Galliano is back , faz.net, October 6, 2014
  18. ↑ The Shimmering in the House of the Invisible , zeit.de, October 6, 2014
  19. ↑ John Galliano for Maison Martin Margiela: He's back. In: Der Spiegel . January 13, 2015, accessed July 24, 2015 .
  20. ↑ www.vogue.co.uk/news, Ella Alexander: A New Era . June 27, 2011. Retrieved May 22, 2016.
personal data
SURNAME Galliano, John
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Galliano Guillén, Juan Carlos Antonio
BRIEF DESCRIPTION British fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH November 28, 1960
PLACE OF BIRTH Gibraltar