Hubert de Givenchy

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Hubert de Givenchy (1972)

Hubert de Givenchy (full name Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy ; born February 20, 1927 in Beauvais , † March 10, 2018 in Paris ) was a French fashion designer , couturier and designer . The internationally known fashion and cosmetics company Givenchy was founded by him in 1952 in Paris.

Life

Hubert de Givenchy was born in Beauvais in 1927 into a wealthy aristocratic family. His father, Lucien Taffin de Givenchy (1888-1930), was the Marquis de Givenchy. The primogenous title of nobility passed to Hubert's older brother Jean-Claude (1925–2009) after the death of his father, while he himself (and the other family members) was entitled to the title of Comte ( Count ), which he hardly used. After the death of their father from flu , the Givenchy brothers grew up with their mother and grandmother.

Impressed by the World Exhibition in Paris in 1937 , ten-year-old Hubert decided that he wanted to do “something with fashion”. He first studied law, but then enrolled at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. He designed his first work in the fashion sector in 1945 for Jacques Fath in Paris; this was followed by designs for Lucien Lelong (1946), Pierre Balmain and Christian Dior . From 1947 to 1951 he worked for the then “fashion queen” and avant-garde designer Elsa Schiaparelli .

In 1952, de Givenchy opened his first own atelier on Plaine Monceau in Paris and organized a collection for Bettina Graziani (a top model in Paris at the time). Here he steered an innovative course against the more conservative collections from Dior. At the age of 25 he was the youngest designer on the emerging progressive Parisian fashion scene. His first collections were made from rather simple materials for financial reasons, but always caused a stir in the specialist press.

The name Givenchy is closely linked to the film actress Audrey Hepburn , whom de Givenchy met in 1953 when Sabrina was filming : he provided the actress with individually designed films both privately and in her films ( Breakfast at Tiffany's , Charade, etc.) for over 40 years Costumes off. The Givenchy dress worn by Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany 's was bought by an anonymous bidder at Christie's in London in 2006 for 692,000 euros and is considered the most expensive textile in film history. De Givenchy also developed his first perfume collection for Hepburn , which he dedicated to her. Also, included Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Kennedy among his most famous clients. Jacky Kennedy had her mourning dress for John F. Kennedy's funeral made by de Givenchy.

In 1953 de Givenchy met his great role model in New York, the Spanish fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga , who had already influenced Paco Rabanne . Balenciaga became de Givenchy's mentor and supporter of him, though the two never worked together. In 1968 Givenchy brought out its first “public” prêt-à-porter collection Givenchy Nouvelle Boutique , after having excluded the press from his fashion presentations years earlier due to technical sales considerations. This was followed by men's collections.

In 1988 de Givenchy sold his fashion company to LVMH . In 1995, at the urging of LVMH management, he said goodbye to the world's catwalks with a major fashion show. He worked ad interim until 1996 as chief designer in the house he founded. Other designers subsequently took his place.

At the end of October 1997 de Givenchy took over the position of president of the French branch for the auction house Christie's until 2002. He also acted as President of the French Division of the World Monuments Fund and took care of the maintenance of the gardens of Versailles Palace . Since 1999 he has been president of the then founded Spanish Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation . In 2011, he was awarded the Order of Merit de las Artes y las Letras de España by the Spanish Minister of Culture for his efforts in memory of Balenciaga .

De Givenchy lived on a 17th century country estate he bought in 1975 called Château du Jonchet in Romilly-sur-Aigre near Cloyes-sur-le-Loir , about 150 km southwest of Paris. He also owned a town house on Paris' Rue de Grenelle and a villa on Cap Ferrat . His longtime partner was the designer Philippe Venet. De Givenchy died at the age of 91.

style

Givenchy mostly preferred bright colors in its collections: pink, yellow, may green, royal blue and fiery red combinations, which were cut in clear, functional lines, as well as plain black (Givenchy is also one of the co-inventors of the classic " little black dress "). His women's collections were characterized by oversized hat designs that often covered the face.

Perfumes - Chronology

  • 1957: L'Interdit (W), Le de Givenchy (W)
  • 1959: Eau de Vetyver (M)
  • 1959: Monsieur de Givenchy (M)
  • 1970: Givenchy III (W)
  • 1974: Gentleman (M)
  • 1980: Eau de Givenchy (W)
  • 1985: Ysatis (W)
  • 1986: Xeryus (M)
  • 1988: Xeryus Rouge (M)
  • 1990: Fleur d'Interdit
  • 1991: Amarige (Eau de Toilette) (W)
  • 1993: Insensé (M), Greenergy (M)
  • 1994: Insensé Ultramarine (M), Amarige, Fleur d'Interdit (W)
  • 1995: Gransenbon (W) / (M), Organza (W), Insense Ultramarine (M)
  • 1997: Extravagance
  • 1998: Indecence, Ptisenbon (children's perfume)
  • 1999: Pi (M)
  • 2000: Oblique Rewind / Play / Fast Forward, Hot couture (W)
  • 2001: Pi Fraîche (M), Hot Couture White Collection (W), Greenergy (M)
  • 2002: Givenchy pour Homme (M), Eau Torride (W), Into the Blue (W)
  • 2003: Insense Ultramarine Ice Cube (M), Insense Ultramarine Midnight Swim (M), Insense Ultramarine Morning Surf (M), Insense Ultramarine Spirit 2 (M), Tartine et Chocolat Ptisenbon ma Belle (W), Amarige d'Amour (W ), Only Givenchy (W), Eau d'Amour (W), Very Irrésistible (W), L'Interdit (W) (reissue), My Couture (W)
  • 2004: So Givenchy (W), Organza First Light (W)
  • 2006: Very Irresistible (M)
  • 2007: Amarige Mariage (W), Very Irrésistible Fresh Attitude (M)
  • 2008: Absolutely Irrésistible (W), Amarige Ylang-Ylang 2008 (W), Ange ou Démon (W), Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac 2008 (W), Ange ou Démon Tendre (W), Insensé Ultramarine WildSurf (M), Jardin d'Interdit - Dancing with Butterflies (W), Jardin d'Interdit - My Lovely Butterfly (W), My Givenchy Dreams (W), Organza Jasmin 2007 (W), Pi Neo (M), Play (M), Play Intense (M), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Fresh Attitude Summer Cocktail for Men (M), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena 2008 (W), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Summer Cocktail (W), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Fresh Attitude Summer Cocktail for Men (M)
  • 2009: Ange ou Démon Le Secret (W), Ange ou Démon Fleur d'Oranger 2009 (W), Be Givenchy (W), Givenchy pour Homme Adventure Sensations (M), Insensé Ultramarine Blue Laser (M), Jardin d'Interdit Sweet Swing (W), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Summer Sorbet for Men (M), Very Irresistible Givenchy Summer Sorbet for Women (M)
  • 2010: Amarige Mimosa 2009 (W), Ange ou Démon Le Secret Poésie d'un Parfum d'Hiver (W), Ange ou Démon Le Secret Santal d'Hiver - Poésie d'un Parfum d'Hiver (W), Dance with Givenchy, (W), Eaudemoiselle (W), Naturally Chic (W), Jardin d'Interdit - Spring Melody (W), Organza Jasmin Sambac 2009 (W), Pi Neo Ultimate Equation (M), Play for Her (W) , Play Intense for Her (W), Play Summer Vibrations (M), Very Irrésistible Cèdre d'Hiver (W), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Centifolia 2009 (W), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Summer Vibrations
  • 2011: Amarige Ylang Ylang 2010 (W), Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac 2010 (W), Ange ou Démon Le Secret Elixir (W), Ange ou Démon le Secret Poésie d'un Parfum d'Hiver (W), Dahlia Noir ( W), Le Bouquet Absolu (W), Organza (Eau de Toilette) (W), Organza Néroli 2010 (W), Pi Neo Tropical Paradise (M), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena 2010 (W), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Tropical Paradise (W), Very Irrésistible Poésie d'un Parfum d'Hiver 2011 (W)
  • 2012: Ange ou Démon Le Secret Lace Edition (W), Dahlia Noir (Eau de Toilette) (W), Eaudemoiselle Bois de Oud (W), Eaudemoiselle Eau Florale (W), Eaudemoiselle Eau Fraîche (W), Organza Lace Edition ( W), Pi Leather Edition (M), Play Leather Edition (M), Play Sport (M), Un Air d'Escapade (W), Very Irrésistible Electric Rose (W), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Lace Edition (W)
  • 2013: Ange ou Démon ( Extrait de Parfum ) (W), Bloom (W), Dahlia Noir L'Eau (W), Gentlemen Only (M), Play In The City For Her (W), Play In The City For Him (M), Very Irrésistible Givenchy (Eau de Toilette) (W), Very Irrésistible Givenchy Édition Croisière (W)

(W = female, M = male)

literature

  • Françoise Mohrt; Hubert de Givenchy (preface): Le style Givenchy. Ed. Assouline, Paris 1998, ISBN 2-84323-076-4 .
    • Translation: Givenchy - A life for beauty. German by Cornelia Niklas. Knesebeck, Munich 1999, ISBN 3-89660-047-8 .
  • Pamela Clarke Keogh; Hubert de Givenchy (Introduction): Audrey style. HarperCollins, New York 1999, ISBN 1-85410-645-7 .
    • Translation: Audrey style. German by Jochen Schwarzer. Schirmer / Mosel, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-88814-190-7 .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Henri Jougla de Morena: Grand Armorial de France. Vol. VI (1948), p. 256 (PDF; 74.5 MB).
  2. ↑ When lightning struck fashion . In: FAZ . February 20, 2012, p. 30.
  3. ↑ Chris Karnak: fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy is dead. In: GGG.at. March 12, 2018.
  4. ↑ au.news.yahoo.com: 'Little black dress' designer Givenchy dies aged 91.
personal data
SURNAME Givenchy, Hubert de
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Givenchy, Hubert James Marcel Taffin de (full name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH February 20, 1927
PLACE OF BIRTH Beauvais , France
DATE OF DEATH March 10, 2018
Place of death Paris