Maison Margiela
| Neuf SARL
|
|
|---|---|
 |
|
| legal form | SARL (France) |
| founding | 1988 |
| Seat | 163 rue Saint Maur, Paris , France |
| management | Giovanni Pungetti, CEO |
| Branch | Textiles , accessories , perfume |
| Website | www.maisonmargiela.com |
Maison Margiela [ mɛzɔ͂ maʀʒiɛlɑ ], until the end of 2014 Maison Martin Margiela , is a fashion company founded in 1988 by the Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela under the name Neuf SARL in Paris .
Under the brand name Maison Margiela , high-priced women's and men's clothing, accessories and jewelry as well as perfume are offered through its own network of boutiques and upscale retailers . Since 2006, the company has also been presenting hand-made women's fashion in the top price segment at the official Haute Couture fashion shows in Paris twice a year. The company has been owned by the Italian DIESEL Group since 2002 , and since the end of 2009 it has been run without Martin Margiela. The original niche brand Maison Martin Margiela , the world under the direction of DIESEL expanded and in fiscal year 2010 sales in excess of 75 million euros recorded is known for un conventional fashion with avant-garde and deconstructive influences. At the beginning of 2015, the company deleted the first name of the company founder from the company name.
Company and brand
In 1988 Martin Margiela founded the Maison Martin Margiela brand as Neuf SARL together with the Brussels retailer Jenny Meirens .
The company made a name for itself with avant-garde, deconstructivist fashion. Margiela took apart already existing patterns and put them back together in an unconventional way and in rather unusual material combinations. Elements that should normally be hidden on clothing, such as seams or the lining , are clearly visible on the outside and made them the main feature of the garment. Typical designs from Maison Martin Margiela's early years include a "ladies vest made of broken porcelain , T-shirts made of plastic bags or a top made of used white leather gloves ". Another trademark of the Margiela collections are tabi- style shoes . In 1998, Margiela presented men's fashion for the first time. Since 1994, the individual Margiela fashion lines have contained so-called replica models, which, according to the sewn label, represent a true-to-original "reproduction of found garments of varying sources and periods".
The faces of the models who presented MMM fashion on the catwalks are mostly covered, for example by veils , stocking masks, their own hair or sunglasses . In the catalogs, censor bars cover the faces of the models to emphasize the fashion and not the mannequins .
Maison Margiela marks its own products with a simple label made of "cotton laundry tapes ", which is attached to the garment at each of its four corners with white thread stitches, which are visible from the outside of unlined items. Margiela's original idea was for customers to cut out this label after purchasing.
The employees in the boutiques , in the design studio and in the backstage area at fashion shows wear white lab coats , as was common in the studios of the great couturiers, e.g. Christian Dior , and is still common today. The fashion shows for high-priced fashion took place as part of the Parisian prêt-à-porter shows, sometimes in unconventional locations and even in shabby surroundings ( construction site , metro station, Salvation Army dining room, etc.). The boutiques are kept in simple white and gray. Margiela had originally chosen unspectacular locations for this , such as a residential area in Tokyo, and not published the addresses of the boutiques, in order to require the customers to make an effort to find the store at all. The first Margiela store opened in Tokyo in 2000, and the first European boutique opened in 2002 in Brussels. In 2008 a boutique opened in a basement on the edge of Munich's Maximilianstrasse . In 2010 there were 36 own stores worldwide. In 2015 there were over 50 stores worldwide, including boutiques that exclusively stock the MM6 collection.
Since 2002 (100% since 2005) Margiela sold the company to the 'Only The Brave' Holding of the Italian entrepreneur Renzo Rosso , to which u. a. also the brands DIESEL , 55DSL , Dsquared² and Viktor & Rolf belong. With the exception of the Artisanal collection, since the takeover, all articles from Maison Margiela have been manufactured by the Italian production company Staff International in Italy ("Made in Italy"), which also works for Dsquared² and Viktor & Rolf as well as under license for Just Cavalli , Vivienne Westwood ( Red Label men's collection ) and until the end of 2017 also produced fashion and accessories for the Marc Jacobs men's collection and has also been part of the DIESEL Group since 2000. In 2004, the company moved into its new headquarters in a former convent school in Rue Saint Maur in the 11th arrondissement in Paris. In 2002, before the takeover by DIESEL, Maison Martin Margiela's sales were € 15 million; In 2009 it was € 70 million. The main sales market is the USA , followed by France and Italy . 60% of sales are made in women's fashion. Margiela fashion is located in the upper price segment.
As of 2006, Maison Martin Margiela, like several other non-French fashion manufacturers before, was a corresponding member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture fashion association and has since shown a non-public presentation of its own Artisanal collection during the Parisian Haute Couture fashion shows . At the end of 2012, the association granted the company full membership status in the exclusive community of haute couture fashion houses.
In 2009 it was announced that Margiela was leaving the company. An in-house design team, the majority of which had still worked with Margiela herself, took over the creation of the collections until 2014. In October 2014, Renzo Rosso appointed former Dior designer John Galliano , whom Rosso called "undisputedly one of the greatest talents of all time", as the creative director of Maison Martin Margiela. On January 12, 2015, Galliano showed his first Artisanal collection with haute couture fashion for Maison Margiela, not as expected in Paris, but on the fringes of the London Men's Fashion Week.
The company's first perfume , a unisex fragrance called 'untitled', was designed by Margiela herself and launched in 2010 in collaboration with L'Oréal . In 2012 Diesel brought the Replica series of Margiela perfumes based on the replica garments of Martin Margiela as a "reproduction of familiar scents and moments of varying locations and periods" "), eight of which had appeared by 2015, six for women and two for men.
In mid-2012, the Swedish fashion chain H&M announced a collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela, within the framework of which clothing and accessories from MMM were offered in the H&M stores from November 2012, which were priced well below the current MMM prices, but well above the other H&M prices -Prices were.
In 2013 Maison Martin Margiela entered into a partnership with Swarovski . The combination of Maison Martin Margiela's clean and innovative style with the sparkling purity of Swarovski crystals makes the creative partnership perfect. The Grand Crystalactite was created. The avant-garde collection debuted on the Maison Martin Margiela Show in July 2013.
Collections
The Maison Margiela differentiates the individual collections by a black number from the series 0 to 23, each shown in a black circle , although not every number has been occupied so far. This identification has also been found in the white labels sewn into the garment since 1997. Before that, the labels were completely white, as has been preserved in the catwalk collection ("Defilé") for women to this day.
| Artisanal | Ladies | Men's | Accessories / shoes | Further |
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
|
|
|
|
The number 20 in the circle was used for the exhibition on the occasion of the company's 20th anniversary in 2008.
Every year since 1993, Margiela has presented a plain-colored “ AIDS T-shirt” with text , the proceeds of which went to part of the French AIDS relief organization AIDES.
Web links
- Maison Margiela website
- Maison Martin Margiela in A MAGAZINE
- Martin Margiela in the House of Art, Munich
Individual evidence
- ↑ CEO Talk | Giovanni Pungetti, Chief Executive Officer, Maison Martin Margiela , businessoffashion.com, September 29, 2011.
- ^ Maison Martin Margiela - '20' the exhibition , hausderkunst.de, March 2009.
- ^ Maison Martin Margiela Changed Its Name, and No One Noticed , nytimes.com, January 13, 2015.
- ^ Maison Martin Margiela - '20' the exhibition , hausderkunst.de, March 2009.
- ^ "Tabi Shoe-Maker" by Maison Martin Margiela in Berlin , vogue.de, September 20, 2013.
- ^ Label of a replica model ( Memento from April 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ), styleforum.net, accessed: April 2, 2015.
- ↑ Munich celebrates the clothes killer , freitag.de, March 26, 2009.
- ^ Paris: Maison Martin Margiela , Les Mads, September 30, 2008.
- ^ The Codes of the Invisible , stylepark.com, August 27, 2009.
- ^ Der Konstrukteur - Maison Martin Margiela , elle.de, accessed: September 18, 2010.
-
↑ Martin Margiela: The new chief designer for the Hermés prêt-à-porter. (No longer available online.) In: textilwirtschaft.de. May 8, 1997 formerly in the original . ( Page no longer available , search in web archives ) New Hermès designer. In: textilwirtschaft.de. April 29, 1997 (fee required).
- ↑ Margiela without Martin. In: textilwirtschaft.de. March 4, 2010, archived from the original on April 2, 2015 (teaser only).
- ↑ MM6 has opened a store in London , fashionmag.com, May 26, 2014
- ^ Staff International: Brands , staffinternational.com, accessed September 30, 2010.
- ↑ Martin Margiela to Leave Fashion House He Founded , nytimes.com, December 8, 2009.
- ↑ The Mysterium Margiela , Die Zeit, July 11, 2009.
- ^ Maison Martin Margiela'-Model Haute Couture ( Memento from January 15, 2013 in the Internet Archive ), gala.de, December 19, 2012.
- ↑ Haute Couture: Didier Grumbach décode les évolutions du calendrier ( Memento from January 15, 2013 in the Internet Archive ), fashion.dailynews.com, December 19, 2012 (French).
- ^ Margiela leaves Margiela , Textilwirtschaft, December 10, 2009.
- ↑ Martin Margiela leaves his brand , FAZ, December 11, 2009.
- ↑ John Galliano moves to Maison Martin Margiela , welt.de, October 6, 2014
- ↑ John Galliano for Maison Martin Margiela: He's back , spiegel.de, January 13, 2015
- ↑ Martin Margiela's fragrant legacy , Die Welt, March 3, 2010.
- ↑ Maison Martin Margiela introduces 'At the Barber's' , maisonmargiela.tumblr.com, October 19, 2014
- ↑ Replica Fragrances: Three new fragrance creations complete the collection , cosmoty.de, March 20, 2014
- ↑ H&M announces an exclusive collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela for Autumn / Winter 2012 , hm.com, June 12, 2012.
- ↑ Martin Margiela for H&M ( Memento from June 15, 2012 in the Internet Archive ), vogue.de, June 11, 2012.
- ↑ H&M cooperates with Margiela ( memento from August 30, 2012 in the Internet Archive ), fashionunited.com, June 12, 2012.
- ↑ Swarovski Professional Collection by Maison Martin Margiela
- ↑ The Margiela Effect December 8, 2014
