Roberto Cavalli

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Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli (born November 15, 1940 in Florence ) is an Italian fashion designer and designer. The fashion company named after him , which he founded in 1970, still exists under his leadership to this day.
In March 2015, the Florentine private equity firm Clessidra Capital Partners took over 90% of the shares in Cavalli's company.

Career

Roberto Cavalli was the son of a surveyor in the coal mine of Santa Barbara in Del Lago in Cavriglia in Tuscany born. On July 4, 1944, his father was shot together with 72 other men in the village in the course of a retaliatory action by soldiers of the German Wehrmacht , Division Hermann Göring , after attacks by the Italian Resistance . Cavalli grew up in an artistic environment; his maternal grandfather, Giuseppe Rossi , was a well-known painter who belonged to the Macchiaioli movement and whose pictures hang in the Uffizi .

The sociable, imaginative and original side of his character became evident in Cavalli's childhood, and so he began to be interested in the relationship between fashion and painting at an early age. In 1957 he enrolled at the Academy of Fine Arts in Florence. In his own print shop he conducted material studies and experimented with new techniques. His thirst for research finally led to the fact that in the 1960s he applied for a patent for a revolutionary printing process on leather , so that he could develop designs for other designers such as Krizia or Mario Valentino and finally opened a small boutique in Saint-Tropez , where he made his own creations prominent customers like Brigitte Bardot for sale. In the 1970s, Cavalli used this technique to create his first patchwork pieces, which were well received in the era of hippie fashion and are still considered classics today.

Anja Rubik , Cavalli fashion show at the Life Ball 2013

He founded his company, Roberto Cavalli SpA , in 1970 and initially showed his designs in Paris . His career began in 1972 with the presentation of his fashion in the historic Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti in Florence . Cavalli was soon considered to be one of the most innovative contemporary designers. His distinctive style, including through colorful materials, daring evening gowns, the use of treated leather and called to animal prints ( printed fabrics in animal fur optics, for example in. Leopard - or zebra pattern) pricing and creativity make him a Trendsetter. Critics of Cavalli fashion, who also disliked the generous use of real furs , sometimes described the creations as downright vulgar. After a heyday in the mid-1970s and less successful years in the 1980s, when minimalist fashion was becoming more and more popular, Cavalli was again the favorite of the 1990s, with lavishly decorated jeans models from its Cavalli Jeans line, among other things international jet set , as many singers and actors such as Jennifer Lopez , Madonna , Britney Spears , Victoria Beckham or Elton John wore his creations. Similar to the Versace family , Cavalli's eccentric, extravagant lifestyle contributed to his company's brand image. Born in Florence, he did not present his fashion until 1994 at the internationally important Milan Fashion Weeks .

Roberto and Eva Cavalli ( Life Ball 2013)

In 1964 Cavalli married Silvanella Giannoni, with whom he has two children and from whom he divorced in 1974. He met his second wife Eva Düringer (* 1959), a former Miss Austria , at a Miss Universe competition in the Dominican Republic in 1977 , in which she participated as a candidate and he as a juror, and married her in 1980. He has three children with her .

Roberto Cavalli with Eva Padberg , Nadège du Bospertus and Eva Riccobono ( Life Ball 2013)

The first U.S. Cavalli store opened on Madison Avenue in New York City in 1999 . The first fashion show for the roberto cavalli men's collection also took place in Milan in 1999 , after a short-lived Cavalli men's line had already existed in the mid-1970s. In 2000 the range was greatly expanded. There were underwear , watches , glasses and children's collections Angels and Devils added. In 2001 the second line justcavalli was launched as the successor to Cavalli Jeans . The CLASS roberto cavalli bridge collection was launched. In 2001 Cavalli was also responsible for the fashion show during the Life Ball in Vienna , the largest fundraising event against AIDS in Europe. The first own perfume for women, Cavalli by Roberto Cavalli , appeared in 2002, and since then there have also been numerous successors for men. In 2007 he created the Spice Girls' stage outfits for their comeback tour. In 2007 he also designed 45 items of clothing for women and men under the name “roberto cavalli @ H&M” for a low-priced collection for the Swedish fashion house H&M . In 2008 the roberto cavalli Newborn collection for toddlers was launched. The company's online shop went into operation in 2009. In 2010 the roberto cavalli brand celebrated its 40th anniversary. In March 2015 Cavalli appointed the former Gaultier , Lacroix and Pucci designer, Peter Dundas, who had worked for Cavalli from 2002 to 2005, as the creative director of all Cavalli collections. In the spring of 2015 Cavalli sold a 90% stake in his company to the Florentine fund Clessidra and kept 10% himself.

For the labels roberto cavalli , justcavalli and CLASS roberto cavalli, there are stores and outlets operated by the company or assigned to franchisees worldwide , e.g. a roberto cavalli outlet in Ingolstadt Village . At the beginning of 2013, there were 94 roberto cavalli (main collection) stores worldwide , 40 of which the company operated itself. In addition, there were 38 stores around the world for the justcavalli label and 27 of the CLASS roberto cavalli line, as well as nine stores specifically for children's fashion. In addition, the collections are offered worldwide in high-end retail . The company's turnover for the 2012 financial year was 185 million euros, with a net profit in 2010 of 5.7 million euros.

Cavalli has also owned the Caffè Giacosa in Florence since 2001 . Roberto's son, Tommaso Cavalli (* 1968), has been running the family winery in Tuscany under the Tenuta Degli Dei brand since the early 2000s and also sells the vodka that his father launched in 2005 under the name of roberto cavalli Vodka . In Florence, Ibiza and Dubai (in the Fairmont Hotel there) there is a cavalli club with a restaurant, bar and lounge. In Milan there with JustCavalli Hollywood Restaurant Lounge. More clubs and restaurants equipped by Cavalli are in the planning stage. In 2008 Roberto Cavalli designed a bottle design for Coca-Cola in an animal fur look.

Collections

The logo of the company roberto cavalli
  • roberto cavalli - high-priced main collection with clothing and accessories for women and men; the license for men's fashion has been awarded to Gibò SpA
  • justcavalli - second line with casual, youthful leisure fashion for women and men with a focus on denim ; Successor line for Cavalli Jeans ; License granted to Staff International SpA (formerly Ittierre SpA )
  • CLASS roberto cavalli - fashionably elegant bridge line for women and men; License granted to Dressing SpA (formerly Albisetti SpA)
  • roberto cavalli Angels and roberto cavalli Devils - children's collections for girls ( Angels ) and boys ( Devils ); License granted to Simonetta SpA
  • roberto cavalli home - home accessories and furnishings; Licenses granted to various manufacturers in Italy
  • roberto cavalli parfum - perfume for women and men; the license has been with Coty Prestige (formerly ICR-ITF) since 2012

Awards

criticism

In 2004, Cavalli was sharply criticized by the Hindu community for designing an underwear line for Harrods that featured images of Hindu goddesses. The line was withdrawn and formal apologies made.

In 2014, thousands of Sufism followers around the world accused him of copying an emblem from their Sufi school and asked him to remove the emblem from the "Just Cavalli" series and related advertising. The emblem is used as a "snakebite" and "sign of seduction".

Individual evidence

  1. The difficult childhood of the party king , Der Spiegel , No. 52/2009, December 17, 2009.
  2. ^ Süddeutsche.de (December 20, 2009)
  3. Welt Online: Roberto Cavalli gave Posh Spice hips
  4. Focus Online: Cavalli designs for H&M
  5. Welt Online: At 66, Cavalli becomes an H&M designer
  6. Peter Dundas becomes creative director at Roberto Cavalli , vogue.de, March 19, 2015.
  7. Roberto Cavalli is growing thanks to retail ( Memento from April 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ), textilwirtschaft.de, February 18, 2013.
  8. ^ The Roberto Cavalli Logo Controversy: When Luxury Brands Meet Religious Imagery

Web links

Commons : Roberto Cavalli  - collection of images, videos and audio files