Jean Paul Gaultier

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Jean Paul Gaultier, 2015

Jean Paul Gaultier (French [ ʒɑ̃ pɔl ɡot'je ]; born April 24, 1952 in Arcueil ) is a French fashion designer and founder of the fashion company named after him.

Career

Gaultier did not complete any training as a fashion designer , but sent his fashion sketches to well-known fashion designers as a young man. Pierre Cardin was impressed by his skills and hired him as an assistant in 1970. In haute couture -House of Jean Patou he worked from 1971 as assistant chief designer Michel Goma and after 1973 as an assistant to Angelo Tarlazzi , Gomas successor.

The Gaultier brand

Gaultier presented his first own collection in 1976. In 1978 he founded Jean Paul Gaultier SA . Gaultier has also been creating haute couture collections under the name Gaultier Paris since 1997 . In addition, Gaultier offered a prêt-à-porter collection for women and a collection for men until 2014 . The men's collection was presented as a unisex line from 2006 under the name Gaultier² (Gaultier Square) . In 1985 Gaultier created the junior second line, Junior Gaultier , manufactured under license , which was replaced in 1994 by JPG by Gaultier , a unisex collection. The latter was discontinued in 1997. In 1992 he launched Gaultier Jean's , a denim- based collection, which was renamed Jean's Paul Gaultier in 2004 and from then on replaced the discontinued second line JPG .

In 2009, the Junior Jean Paul Gaultier and Junior Gaultier children's collection was launched in collaboration with the French children's fashion specialist Groupe Zannier, which was expanded in 2011 to include Gaultier Bébé for toddlers . There was also jewelry, leather goods, shoes and glasses from Gaultier in the accessories area for women. The turnover of the Gaultier brand in 2009 was around 23 million euros. With a big fashion show during the Paris Fashion Weeks at the end of September 2014, Gaultier announced that the entire prêt-à-porter division would be given up and the designer would now concentrate exclusively on haute couture, perfumes and other projects.

Cooperations

The end of 2009 designed Gaultier for US goods discounter Target as part of its 'Designer Collaborations' program, a 50-part, low-priced women's collection, which was available at Target from March to April of 2010. A collaboration for furnishings has also existed with the French furniture manufacturer Roche-Bobois since 2010, after Gaultier had designed furniture for the French company VIA in the 1990s. Gaultier also cooperated with the Italian lingerie manufacturer La Perla in 2010. Gaultier works with the artist couple LA Raeven .

Gaultier style

Jean Paul Gaultier with Conchita Wurst ( Life Ball 2014)

Gaultier quickly gained a reputation for being the enfant terrible of French fashion. He creates very unusual, often hardly wearable fashion, which he often presents in happenings . He likes to use unconventional models such as older, overweight women or pierced and tattooed people. One of his trademarks is the white long-sleeved T-shirt with narrow blue horizontal stripes in a marine style. Many of his creations are derived from everyday clothing and pop culture , while his haute couture designs are strictly formal and playful at the same time. He popularized skirts for men and designed the costumes for many films such as Luc Besson's The Fifth Element , Pedro Almodóvar's Kika , Peter Greenaway's The Cook, the Thief, his wife and her lover, and Jean-Pierre Jeunet's City of Lost Children . For the singer Kylie Minogue and her 'X Tour', Gaultier created haute couture clothing in 2008, for Madonna he designed the daring outfits of the 'Blonde Ambition Tour' and her 'Confessions Tour' in 2006, for Johnny Hallyday the stage outfits in 2003 .

Hermès and Puig

Gaultier was also the designer of the Hermès women's clothing line from 2004 . Hermès held a 35% stake in Jean Paul Gaultier from 1999, which was increased to 45% in 2008. With the spring / summer 2011 collection, Gaultier's work for Hermès ended after the former Hermès boss, Jean-Louis Robert Frédéric Dumas-Hermès, who hired Gaultier in 2004, died in 2010. In 2011 it became known that Hermès wanted to sell its stake in Gaultier. At the beginning of May 2011 it was announced that the Spanish Puig Group - a perfume manufacturer that also includes the fashion brands Carolina Herrera , Nina Ricci and Paco Rabanne - is taking over the 45% stake in Gaultier from Hermès. In addition, the group bought a 15% stake in the company from Jean Paul Gaultier and thus holds 60% of the company. The remaining 40% is held by Jean Paul Gaultier himself. As of 2016, Puig will also take over the perfume license from Gaultier, which has been owned by Beauté Prestige International so far .

Perfume

Jean Paul Gaultier, 2015

In 1993 Gaultier launched his first women's perfume Jean Paul Gaultier (later marketed under the name Classique ), followed in 1995 by the first men's fragrance Le Male . Since then, the company has launched numerous other fragrances, such as Kokorico in 2012 . The fragrances are produced by Beauté Prestige International, a Paris subsidiary of Shiseido .

Others

  • In 1989 Gaultier made it into the charts with the single How To Do That he sang .
  • In 2008 he commented on the Eurovision Song Contest in Belgrade for the French broadcaster France 3.
  • In 2012 he was appointed to the competition jury of the 65th Cannes International Film Festival .
  • In 2016 he designed over 500 costumes for the revue THE ONE Grand Show in the Friedrichstadt-Palast in Berlin .
  • In 2016 he designed a collection for D. Swarovski with the aptly named "Kaputt"
  • The 96-minute BioPic documentary Jean Paul Gaultier: Freak and Chic by Yann L'Hénoret (F 2018) opened in German cinemas in 2020 .

Private

In 1990 Gaultier's long-time partner and business partner Francis Menuge died of the consequences of the immune deficiency disease AIDS .

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Textile industry: Junior Gaultier out, JPG in  ( page can no longer be accessed , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (June 2, 1994)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  2. ↑ Textile industry: The end for the second line JPG  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (February 6, 1997)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  3. ↑ Textile industry: Gaultier issues a license for children's clothing  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (December 18, 2008)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de  
  4. ^ Jean Paul Gaultier's farewell to prêt-à-porter , welt.de, September 28, 2014
  5. ↑ Target Announces Jean Paul Gaultier for Target Inspired by the Iconic Fashion of American Women (press release), target.com, February 9, 2010.
  6. ^ Jean Paul Gaultier designs for Target ( Memento from January 2, 2014 in the Internet Archive ), Hype Magazine, October 23, 2009.
  7. ^ Jean Paul Gaultier's furniture collection for Roche Bobois in the Düsseldorfer Stilwerk ( Memento from December 11, 2010 in the Internet Archive ), Hype Magazine, October 15, 2010.
  8. ↑ 50 years of Roche Bobois: New collection by Jean Paul Gaultier , vol.at, 23 September 2010
  9. ^ Gaultier for La Perla , vogue.de, July 1, 2010
  10. ↑ https://www.theguardian.com/theobserver/2002/feb/17/features.review137
  11. ↑ Men's Health: Pure Luxury: Hermès (February 17, 2009)
  12. ↑ Elle: Das Enfant terrible: Jean Paul Gaultier (last accessed: February 11, 2010)
  13. ^ Textile Industry: Hermès: Farewell Rumors About Jean Paul Gaultier (August 21, 2009)
  14. ^ Report on the end of the collaboration between Gaultier and Hermès
  15. ↑ Hermès: Several interested parties for Jean Paul Gaultier , textilwirtschaft.de, April 1, 2011
  16. ↑ Hermès: Several interested parties for Jean Paul Gaultier , textilwirtschaft.de, April 1, 2011
  17. ^ Textile industry: Jean Paul Gaultier: Hermès sold to Puig (May 4, 2011)
  18. ↑ WWD: Puig Acquires Majority Stake in Jean Paul Gaultier (May 3, 2011)
  19. ↑ https://www.flaconi.de/parfum/jean-paul-gaultier/
  20. ↑ http://www.discogs.com/artist/Jean+Paul+Gaultier .
  21. ↑ Swarovski Professional Collection by Jean Paul Gaultier
  22. ↑ Jean Paul Gaultier: Freak & Chic - Documentation by Yann L'Hennoret , kunstundfilm.de, accessed July 3, 2020
  23. ↑ Shaun Cole: "Gaultier, Jean Paul (b. 1952)" ( Memento of November 12, 2007 in the Internet Archive ), in: glbtq. An Encyclopedia of Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, Transgender, and Queer Culture , 2004
personal data
SURNAME Gaultier, Jean Paul
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH April 24, 1952
PLACE OF BIRTH Arcueil , France