Pierre Cardin

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Pierre Cardin with Nora Arnezeder , 2009

Pierre Cardin (* July 2, 1922 as Pietro Costante Cardini in San Biagio di Callalta near Treviso , Veneto , Italy ; † December 29, 2020 in Neuilly-sur-Seine ) was a French fashion designer and entrepreneur . Cardin, along with Paco Rabanne and André Courrèges, was the inventor of futuristic fashion from 1963.

life and work

Dress, 1967
Evening dress

Fashion

Cardin was the youngest of seven children of a wine merchant. After the liberation of France, he went to Paris in 1944 and began his fashion career there as a fashion draftsman in the Paquin House; With a total of 76 professional years until his death in 2020, he is considered the longest person in the fashion business. In 1946, Cardin made the costumes for Jean Cocteau's film La Belle et la Bête while he was working for Elsa Schiaparellis for three months . After that he actually wanted to start at Cristóbal Balenciaga , whom he regarded as highly regarded , but did not get a job and therefore started at Christian Dior in 1947 . There he designed the “New Look” for women, which was characterized above all by flared, lavishly cut skirts, narrow shoulders and narrow waists. In 1950 he was the first couturier to set up his own haute couture company, which produces high-quality ready-to- wear clothing ( prêt-à-porter ) for the world market. The aim was to make clothing of high quality in terms of fashion and workmanship affordable for a wider audience. His womenswear from this period was characterized by simplicity and suitability for everyday use, despite its elegance. A decade later, Cardin became the first major fashion designer to also design lines for men.

Cardin also played a pioneering role in questions of the economic implementation of fashion; He was the first among the leading fashion designers to use his brand extensively for licensing. He gave the name Cardin to various licensees and also created the respective products. According to his own statements, he creates around a hundred design drawings for his customers every year. Underwear designed by Cardin is also sold by discounters such as Lidl .

He made first contacts with the People's Republic of China as early as the 1970s , with the success that in 1995 he was able to conclude a contract with the Chinese government for the production of uniforms for the army, police and post office. Further uniforms agreements with other countries followed.

Product design

Furniture in the style of the sculptures utilitaires
Sculptures utilitaires : table and chair Cobra
logo
pen

Cardin's activity was not limited to fashion. There was hardly an article from the consumer goods sector that was not manufactured with its label: " Wristwatches , table linen, bed linen and towels, porcelain, ceramics, cutlery, furniture fabrics, transistor devices, record players and car interiors". In the automotive sector, Cardin's name appeared on the AMC Javelin (1973), the Sbarro Stash (1976) and the Cardin Evolution I (1980). From the 1970s onwards, he dealt with furniture design and created brightly lacquered bentwood furniture in a geometric style, which he called sculptures utilitaires (utility sculptures ). Philippe Starck was one of his employees .

property

In 1981 he acquired the Parisian luxury restaurant Maxim’s and had it renovated. He later opened branches in Monte Carlo , Brussels , Geneva , Beijing , Shanghai , Tokyo , Moscow and New York, among others .

In May 2001 he bought the castle of the Marquis de Sade in the southern French village of Lacoste . Cardin had the ruined castle rebuilt in order to be able to offer concerts and music festivals there and acquired a number of other properties in town. Cardin wanted to turn the small town into a " Saint Tropez of culture". There was resistance in the village. Despite his investments of 22 million euros, residents held him against being a “ruthless real estate shark” and behaving like a “feudal landowner”. Cardin then accused the residents of a lack of understanding of his cultural plans.

In 2007 Cardin had 800 companies in 180 countries with around 200,000 employees, 850 licenses, 18 restaurants and four theaters (Théâtre des Ambassadeurs). Hotels, media, castles and ships are also part of his corporate conglomerate. One of the remarkable things about Cardin is that it does not belong to any holding company and that no shares in the company have ever been sold. Cardin claimed to have run no debt in the company's history.

Private

Pierre Cardin lived in Théoule-sur-Mer , a coastal town near Cannes , in the “Palais Bulles”, an unusual house built by the Hungarian architect Antti Lovag and acquired in 1991 by Pierre Cardin. The 25 rooms of the complex are spherical (bubbles / bulles ); it is (with its amphitheater and pool ) a reference for organic architecture .

Cardin had relationships with both men and women, including actress Jeanne Moreau . Despite his old age, he was still working on collections the year he died and died in December 2020 at the age of 98.

Awards (selection)

Quotes

"I've always liked to exist through my work, and I've never enjoyed being amused."

- Pierre Cardin

“But I'm still the only innovator in the whole world! Everyone is copying me. I democratize, banalize others. Everyone is now doing what I did 40 or 50 years ago. But there is one big difference: the 'Pierre Cardin' brand belongs to me alone. I am the only fashion designer who has not sold the rights to his brand. "

- Pierre Cardin, 2007

“What is fashion? Tomorrow. Never yesterday. "

- Pierre Cardin, 2017

literature

  • Jean-Pascal Hesse (Ed.): Pierre Cardin. 60 years of innovation . Assouline, New York 2010, 192 pp., Overw. Ill.
  • Elisabeth Längle: Pierre Cardin . Brandstätter, Vienna 2005, 208 p., Overw. Ill., ISBN 3-85498-395-6 , accompanying volume to a retrospective of Cardin's complete works
  • Elisabeth Längle: Pierre Cardin: fifty years of fashion and design. Thames & Hudson, London 2005, 160 pp., ISBN 0-500-51270-1 , exhibition catalog for: "Pierre Cardin: Design & Fashion 1950–2005" in the Academy of Fine Arts Vienna on May 3, 2005
  • Nadja Traxler-Gerlich: Pierre Cardin. Luxury times mass. In: Wiener Journal, No. 18 of May 7, 2005, pp. 14-17
  • Richard Morais: Pierre Cardin. The man who became a label. Bantam, London [u. a.], 1991, 264 pp.
  • Pierre Cardin: Pierre Cardin, Paris: past, present, future. Nishen, London; Berlin 1990, 191 pages, mainly ill.

See also

Pierre Cardin Automotive

Web links

Commons : Pierre Cardin  - Collection of Images, Videos and Audio Files

items

Interviews

Individual evidence

  1. ^ "He was born as Pietro Costante Cardini on July 2, 1922 in San Biagio di Callalta in Veneto, but grew up in France." France: fashion designer Pierre Cardin is dead , sueddeutsche.de , December 29, 2020
  2. ↑ Pierre Cardin is dead. In: tagesschau.de. December 29, 2020, accessed December 29, 2020 .
  3. ↑ Jan Joswig: “Mode-Special: Timeline 1963-2007. What was going on and when in streetwear and designer fashion? ” De: Bug , September 2, 2007
  4. ↑ Jan Kedves: Mode Interview: Pierre Cardin , Spex , # 326, May / June 2010, p. 81ff.
  5. ^ Lidl + Cardin - Google search
  6. ↑ "How Stewardess Uniforms Have Changed," China Internet Information Center, Nov. 3, 2008
  7. ↑ a b biography of Pierre Cardin ( memento of October 10, 2010 in the Internet Archive ), Markenpunkt.de, 2007
  8. ^ A b Nadja Traxler-Gerlich: Pierre Cardin. Luxury times mass.  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / www2.wienerzeitung.at In: Wiener Journal, No. 18 of May 7, 2005, p. 16, (PDF file, 2.8 MB).
  9. ↑ Henning Lohse: “Controversial investor Pierre Cardin. One man, one village ” , Spiegel Online , August 21, 2009
  10. ↑ DER SPIEGEL: Pierre Cardin: French fashion designer is dead - DER SPIEGEL - Panorama. Retrieved December 29, 2020 .
  11. ↑ Martin Henkel: The greatest fashion designer: Pierre Cardin - the pioneer of the space age. In: CarlMarie Magazin. February 6, 2020, accessed on December 29, 2020 (German).
  12. ↑ Fashion designer Pierre Cardin is dead: legend died at the age of 98 - many of his pieces made history , fnp.de , December 29, 2020
  13. ↑ In: Elisabeth Längle: Pierre Cardin . Brandstätter, Vienna 2005
  14. ↑ Julia Decker and Carolin Wiedemann: “The only innovative in the world” , SZ , October 4, 2007
personal data
SURNAME Cardin, Pierre
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Cardini, Pietro-Constante (maiden name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French fashion designer and entrepreneur
DATE OF BIRTH July 2, 1922
PLACE OF BIRTH San Biagio di Callalta near Treviso , Italy
DATE OF DEATH December 29, 2020
Place of death Neuilly-sur-Seine