Prêt-à-porter

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Under ready-to-wear [ pʀɛtapɔʀte ] ( double. "Ready to Wear") is understood to wear ready-made clothes fashion . In contrast to haute couture , the clothing is not made to measure , but brought onto the market in standard sizes and in a finished state. Basically, prêt-à-porter means something like ready-made or “off the peg” - although the term is mostly used in connection with the designs and shows of large fashion houses and therefore has no derogatory connotation as mass-produced goods. In English , the synonymous term ready-to-wear is also used.

Some fashion houses and fashion designers create prêt-à-porter product lines that are mass-produced on an industrial scale. For others, these products are still very exclusive and are only produced in limited numbers and only for a certain period of time. In contrast to haute couture, however, these are never unique pieces and never pieces that are only designed to attract attention at fashion shows.

Often the collections in upscale fashion houses are even made in their own atelier . Many of them are also exhibited and presented at fashion shows . However, there are only a few companies that still produce in Germany. These companies mainly sell their collections abroad.

The most important fair for prêt-à-porter fashion is or was considered to be the Bread & Butter in Berlin , whose title onomatopoeically alludes to the French name and at the same time represents a metaphor .

history

Ready-to-wear fashion from Palau Robert

Prêt-à-porter had its origins in the Parisian fashion salons of the 1930s. In Italy in the 1950s, fashion designers began to manufacture their designs in limited numbers and to sell them in boutiques . In Germany, Bessie Becker (1952) and Willy Bogner were among the first fashion designers with a prêt-à-porter studio. In England, creations by young designers such as Mary Quant , Laura Ashley and Barbara Hulanicki in the late 1950s / early 1960s were no longer sold in exclusive studios but in boutiques and department stores around the world. In France, the established haute couture fashion designers initially closed themselves off to the new development. Cacharel , Dorothée Bis and Pierre Cardin were among the pioneers of prêt-à-porter fashion in France . In the mid-1960s, the well-known French fashion designers also began to present two predominantly youthful and avant-garde collections a year. The collections were first presented in 1965 at the Salon du Prêt-à-porter trade fair . In 1973 the Chambre Synicale du Prêt-à-porter des Couturiers et Créateurs de Mode was founded. Alta Moda Pronta fashion shows have also been held in Italy since 1966 . In the 1970s in particular, the Alta Moda Pronta collections by Armani , Laura Biagiotti , Salvatore Ferragamo , Gianni Versace and Krizia contributed to the international reputation of Italian designers and established Milan's reputation as the center of Italian prêt-à-porter . In Germany and Austria in the 1970s, the collections by Jil Sander , Caren Pfleger and Helmut Lang were among the internationally acclaimed ready-to-wear garments.

Styles

Stylistically dominated in the late 1970s / early 1980s, the folklore -Look - including ponchos , gaucho and harem pants , folkloric wool skirts - the ready-to-wear collections. In the 1980s, Japanese designers such as Yōji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake increasingly brought Far Eastern influences into the collections. Since the 1980s, prêt-à-porter fashion has been characterized by a variety of fashion styles. Jean Paul Gaultier coined the androgynous fashion style in the mid-1980s, the grunge and poor look was mainly introduced by Ann Demeulemeester , while Vivienne Westwood's collections were characterized in particular by provocative reinterpretations of historical costumes. Gianni Versace created the bondage style in the 1980s , but also designed opulent ready-to-wear collections like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano . In addition to unusual collections, prêt-à-porter fashion was also dominated by a puristic , transparent and businesslike style in the 1990s . Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and Donna Karan were among the internationally most successful representatives of this style . The traditional fashion houses such as Hermès , Chanel , Burberry and Louis Vuitton interpreted their fashion classics in a contemporary way and thus created coveted style icons.

Individual evidence

  1. a b c d Ingrid Loschek: Reclams Mode and Costume Lexicon . 6th edition. Reclam, Stuttgart 2011, ISBN 978-3-15-010818-5 , pp. 410-413 .
  2. Pierre Cardin - co-founder of the prêt-à-porter fashion. styleranking.de, accessed on May 2, 2012 .