Vivienne Westwood

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Vivienne Westwood (2011)

Dame Vivienne Isabel Westwood , DBE , (* 8. April 1941 as Vivienne Isabel Swire in Tintwistle, Derbyshire ) is an English fashion designer . She became famous with the invention of punk fashion in the mid-1970s. Today her designs are characterized by new and eccentrically put together combinations of historical clothing, rare textile fabrics and colorful woven patterns. From 1989 to 2005 she took on teaching positions for fashion design at the University of Applied Arts Vienna and the University of the Arts Berlintrue. Vivienne Westwood is involved in many human rights, disarmament and environmental initiatives.

life and work

The early years

Westwood was born the first of three children in a small town in central England, 13 miles east of Manchester . Her mother, Dora Ball, was a weaver in the local cotton mill   and her father, Gordon Swire, came from a family of shoemakers . Her sister Olga was born in 1944 and her brother Gordon in 1946. After the Second World War they took over a small post office in the parish of Tintwistle. In 1958 she moved with her parents to Harrow ( Middlesex , now Greater London ), where they now ran a larger post office. Westwood attended Harrow Art School , where she studied art, fashion and finally silversmithing for one semester, but as the daughter of workers she could not yet imagine a professional future with it. Then she made a teacher training and then taught from 1961 at a primary school in Willesden in north London. In 1962 she married the toolmaker Derek Westwood and had with him the son Benjamin "Ben" Arthur (* 1963). After three years, she and Ben fled to her aunt Ethel in North Wales and divorced Derek Westwood in 1965. She then met the then 18-year-old Malcolm Edwards (aka Malcolm McLaren ), a friend of her brother's who had studied at the neighboring Harrow Technical College . With him she had another son named Joseph Corre in 1967 and taught until 1971. As the mother of two sons, she increasingly began to tailor her own clothes. She has been interested in fashion design since school. To do this, she disassembled the seams of the respective clothing to find out the cut and then sewed everything back together true to the original. She kept and perfected this habit of getting to the bottom of things to this day. The radicalism of their attitude should not be limited to fashion alone.

Radical chic and professionalization

World's End Boutique at 1pm

The activity born out of necessity soon developed into a respectable ability. So in November 1971 she and her husband Malcolm McLaren founded their first boutique at 430 Kings Road in London under the name "Let it rock", alluding to the Chuck Berry song. McLaren and a friend from art school, Patrick Casey, had already started selling his fashion here two months earlier in the previous shop called “Paradise Garage” until the owner, Trevor Myles, let him run the shop. Most of the clothing, some second-hand, was aimed at " Teds ", as McLaren himself wore teddy boy suits and despised the hippie clothing that was dominant at the time . Westwood designed the models and East End tailor Sid Green and a seamstress took care of the production. The standard range included teddy jackets, tight trousers and creepers shoes. As the Teds' racism and sexism became more apparent, they renamed the store Too Fast To Live, Too Young To Die in commemoration of the early death of iconic actor James Dean in early 1973 and focused on rocker fashion. At the end of 1974 they changed the name to "Sex" and the range switched to erotic underwear and S&M items. The boutique became a meeting point for the London punk rock scene, which included Sid Vicious and other members of the later Sex Pistols , the Chelsea band members and Mark Stewart . The radicalization of Westwood's worldview was also reflected in the other names of the store: "Seditionaries - Clothes for Heroes" (Eng. "Aufwiegler", from 1976) and "World's End" (since 1979). The shop continues to operate under this name to this day. In 1974 McLaren took over the management of the New York Dolls and a year later that of the Sex Pistols.

Westwood's first professional fashion collection, which she oriented towards seafarers with flowing trousers and ruffled shirts and called “Pirates ” (F / W '81), she tailored and presented in 1981. This unisex collection and the following one called “Savage” (F / S 82), in which she interpreted Indian and Wild West motifs, Westwood showed in 1981 as catwalk fashion shows as part of the London Designers Collection in the Olympic Exhibition Hall. She had redecorated her shop “World's End” in pirate style; Among other things, with a sloping wooden plank floor like on a galley . Since then, the facade of the shop on Kings Road has been adorned with an oversized clock with a dial showing 13 hours and hands running backwards at a rapid pace.

From 1982 Westwood had her collections presented in Paris, the world capital of fashion, and was the first English fashion designer there since Mary Quant in the 1960s. With the "Nostalgia of the Mud" (or "Buffalo Girls") collection, she approached the country house and cowboy style. The shown mud-colored, brown or khaki-colored, partly tattered textiles should at the same time represent the return of post-industrial society to primitive nature. Visible seams, hoodies over voluminous skirts, bras worn as outerwear, the use of lambskin and embroidery as well as large Buffalo hats like those worn by Pharrell Williams today were the main elements of the collection. At the same time, Westwood and McLaren opened from March 1982 to the end of 1983 a matching second store on St. Christopher's Place in London, also called "Nostalgia of Mud". The “Witches” collection followed in 1983, which combined ethnic influences with ready-to-wear fashion and was inspired by the work of Keith Haring .

Company logo (without the imperial orb with planetary ring)

After separating from her second husband McLaren in 1983, Westwood carried out the following collections entirely independently. However, the Westwood brand got into a financial crisis after the separation. Westwood closed the "World's End" store and only reopened it in 1986. In 1984, for financial reasons, a license agreement was signed with Giorgio Armani for the production and distribution of Westwood fashion, which was supposed to secure the trademark rights to Westwood's company for the Italian company for an initial seven years. However, the contract was terminated in 1987. In her summer collection from 1985 called Mini Crini , with which she distanced herself from the wide shoulder pads of the 1980s, Westwood showed narrow country nobility jackets and puffy crinolines in mini-skirt format, for which she was inspired by petrushka (ballet) and with what hers Fashion brand is associated to this day. In 1986 Westwood stayed away from the fashion shows and only showed a collection again in mid-1987 after a creative break in Italy. During this time, she also invented her own company logo , which is still in use today: a stylized orb , like the one found among the British crown jewels , surrounded by a kind of planetary ring . She had previously embroidered the orb, who despite her political views had always had a certain weakness for everything royal, on a sweater, and she had seen the planetary ring in an astronomy magazine of her son Ben. The logo also came very close to the Harris Tweed Company's Reichsapfel logo, but was not criticized by them, as Westwood integrated the fabric, which was considered old-fashioned at the time, into its collections and thus gave it and the then ailing tweed company a new lease of life would have. Harris Tweed even supported the Westwood company financially. The Harris Tweed Collection (A / W 1987) marked another turning point in Westwood's previous designer career with elegant and artisanal cuts and shapes. The Stature of Liberty corset shown in it was the first to be presented as outerwear at a fashion show.

Westwood retail store in Cardiff

With “Cut and Slash” Westwood showed her first complete men's collection in Florence in 1990. This became an integral part of their brand portfolio in 1996 under the name Vivienne Westwood Man . Before that, since the time with McLaren, there had been a number of men's models in the Westwood collections. In the "Vive la Cocotte" collection in 1995, she used typical identifying features from demi- world fashion and style elements from the nude look . In her “Five Century ago” collection from 1997, she staged herself as Elisabeth I. She always took Höfische Moden as a welcome inspiration for an opulent new costume for women and men. In the mid-1990s, she analyzed Christian Dior's post-war feminine designs and implemented them in her own collections in an exaggerated manner. With high heels, corsets, tied up breasts and accentuated hips, she ensured more erotic attraction for women and more androgyny for men with tailored jackets and bloomers . The fall of Naomi Campbell on platform shoes with 30 cm high heels during a Westwood catwalk show remains unforgettable . Many of Westwood's style elements were later picked up by other designers, such as Jean Paul Gaultier . In 1999, a Westwood boutique opened in New York City. Westwood named the 2008 spring / summer collection 56 to protest Prime Minister Gordon Brown's initiative to increase the length of time suspects could be detained without charge to 56 days (Terrorism Bill 2005).

Manchester branch with Westwood photo poster

Before she was awarded the Order of the British Empire on December 15, 1992, photo reporters asked her to turn once around her axis, which raised her skirt. The reporters then asked her to turn around several times, and it emerged that she was not wearing any underwear under her sheer tights.

In 2014 Westwood designed the uniforms for the British airline Virgin Atlantic .

Today Vivienne Westwood no longer wants to be tied to the “Queen of Punk ” label . She is considered a hard worker and strict critic. In 1993 she still lived modestly in a social housing.

High fashion

Westwood is now considered the leading institution of fashion made in England . John Fairchild, the then editor of the fashion magazine Women's Wear Daily , named her one of the six most important fashion designers of our time in 1989, alongside Yves Saint Laurent , Emanuel Ungaro , Giorgio Armani , Karl Lagerfeld and Christian Lacroix . She became famous for her new and eccentrically put together combinations of historical clothing, rare textile fabrics and woven patterns (designs). She has remained true to a certain preference for Scottish checks to this day. She also likes to incorporate ethnic influences into her designs. In their opinion, fashion should emphasize individuality.

Collections

Westwood costumes for King's College London , 2008

The following Westwood collections exist:

  • Vivienne Westwood Couture
    launched a tailor-made women's collection in the top price segment in 2016, which is only available in the shop in Davies Street, London.
  • Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
    Partially handmade, high-priced luxury line for the fashion shows in Paris; made in the UK; from 1990 to 2016 under the name Gold Label
    • Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Unisex
      sub-collection since 2013 with clothing that can be worn by both women and men; until 2016: Unisex Gold Label
  • Vivienne Westwood
    Progressive women's line for the London fashion shows; manufactured in Italy under license by Staff International since 1989 ; until 2016 as a casual, trendy second line called Red Label
  • Vivienne Westwood Anglomania
    Less formal, fashionable women's bridge line; Manufactured in Italy since 1997, originally under license from Gruppo GTR, from 2001 by Swinger International, since 2004 by GFM Industria
  • Vivienne Westwood Man
    Fashionable men's line from Westwood; manufactured in Italy under license by Staff International since 1989; under the name Man since 1996
  • Vivienne Westwood Bridal
    bridal wear, available both as prêt-à-porter and bespoke models; since 1992

Westwood women's fashion was split into the two collections Gold Label and Red Label in 1990 : the former as high-priced catwalk fashion for the fashion shows in Paris (renamed Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood in 2016 ) and the latter as the more fashionable second line for the fashion shows in London (2016 in the newly established main line Vivienne Westwood has risen).

Locations

Gold Label Boutique in Davies Street, London

In addition to London, Westwood also has branches in Paris and Tokyo , which she runs together with her husband in Vivienne Westwood. In addition to fashion design, she also designed tea sets for Wedgwood and Swatch watches. Finally, Westwood established the women's perfume series “Boudoir” (1998), “Libertine” (2000, discontinued) and “Anglomania” (2004) as well as the personal care series “Les Coquetteries” (1999, discontinued). A men's perfume has not yet appeared.

In the 2016 financial year there were Vivienne Westwood boutiques in London (4), Nottingham, Leeds, Manchester, Newcastle, Liverpool, Glasgow, Cardiff, Vienna, Paris, Milan (2), Los Angeles, Honolulu, Guam, Singapore (2), Bangkok (2), Hong Kong (9) as well as numerous stores and shops-in-shops in Japan (50), South Korea (18) and Taiwan (6). Since 2015 there are in Shanghai and Hong Kong Vivienne Westwood café s, where pastry is offered.

Teaching assignments

In 1989 she was appointed visiting professor for three years at the University of Applied Arts Vienna to lead the so-called fashion class . There she met the student Andreas Kronthaler and married him in 1992. She lives with him in Battersea in southwest London. Kronthaler works as a designer in Westwood's company. The upscale women's catwalk collection (formerly Vivienne Westwood Gold Label ) has had his name since 2016 : Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood .

From 1993 to 2005 she held a teaching position at the Department of Fashion Design at the Berlin University of the Arts , where she taught and graduated a total of 65 students in block seminars. Here, too, she oriented her students in the first year of study according to historical models. The final défilé of their diploma students and the end of their teaching assignments were celebrated in the departure hall of Tempelhof Airport .

With her engagement in Berlin she also promoted the possibility of Berlin as the future fashion capital of Germany.

Costume pictures

Vivienne Westwood,
screen print by Biagio Black

She took her first step into the world of theater in 1996 as a costume designer at the Burgtheater in Vienna . There she designed for The Threepenny Opera by Bertolt Brecht costumes (Director: Paulus Manker , set design: Erich Wonder ) and wrote a paraphrase of the second Threepenny Finale "because of which man lives."

For the Vienna Philharmonic's 2014 New Year's Concert , Westwood designed the costumes for the ballet dancers who danced in the newly renovated Liechtenstein City Palace . The film Backstage , shown during the concert break , took a look behind the scenes and saw, among other things, Kronthaler's work on the costumes.

Peace, human rights, environmental and animal protection

Westwood wants to get involved in political and literary projects in the future. So she demands, inter alia. the release of Leonard Peltier and the closure of the Guantánamo Bay prison camp .

Because of the planned tightening of anti-terrorism laws in Great Britain, the fashion designer designed a shirt for the British civil rights organization Liberty in September 2005 that read: “I'm not a terrorist. Please don't arrest me. ” In mid-March 2007, she and Annie Lennox and Bianca Jagger protested against the acquisition of new nuclear submarines .

After talking to animal rights organization PETA , Westwood decided in October 2007 to stop using animal hides in their costumes and accessories.

On November 11, 2007, Westwood announced its political manifesto “Active Resistance to Propaganda” as part of the “Berlin Lessons”, a matinee series by the Berliner Festspiele and Bertelsmann AG . In it she called for resistance to propaganda of any kind and to renounce consumption by conveying this in fictional dialogues between Alice (in Wonderland) , Pinocchio , Aristotle and others. Furthermore, she advocated classical education and distanced herself from abstract art : “Every time I read a book instead of looking at a magazine, go to the art gallery instead of watching TV, go to theater instead of cinema, I fight for Active Resistance to Propaganda. ”The press reactions were restrained and the ratings ranged from“ charmingly naive ”to“ conservative-elitist ”.

From November 2012, Westwood will be supporting Julian Assange and Wikileaks with a charity campaign . She will donate the proceeds from her T-shirts for 45 € to Wikileaks. In February 2016, she made public that she visits Assange in his asylum in the Ecuadorian Embassy in London every first Thursday of the month. She learned from asking him questions, adding that he knew more about what was going on in the world than anyone she had ever met. In June 2016 Vivienne Westwood dedicated her presentation for men's fashion in Milan to Julian Assange and performed with her Assange t-shirt.

In 2012, Westwood donated £ 1 million to the environmental protection organization Cool Earth to help conserve tropical rainforests . Until 2016 she and her husband Andreas Kronthaler donated 1.5 million pounds to the project with local peoples as forest conservationists. They were able to attract other celebrities such as Kate Moss , Georgia May Jagger and Stephen Fry .

In 2013 Westwood supported the campaign to protect the Awá of the human rights organization Survival International . With her photo portrait she called for the protection of this indigenous people.

In July 2015, she and Greenpeace initiated a protest against Shell's oil drilling in the Arctic . Many celebrities joined the campaign, and a call for signatures on the Internet resulted in the approval of around 8.7 million people worldwide by the beginning of 2018.

Private life

Vivienne Westwood has been married to the Tyrolean Andreas Kronthaler (* 1966) since May 14, 1992 , who studied fashion design with her at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna . Kronthaler's brother Martin is a farmer in a joint venture in Reith im Alpbachtal . Westwood lived modestly in a council house in Clapham for 30 years , but in 2000 Kronthaler was able to persuade his wife to move to a 1703 Queen Anne-style property . The house once belonged to Captain Cook's mother . In her free time, she reads newspapers and magazines, but hardly watches television and enjoys gardening.

Westwood has two sons from two relationships, Benjamin Arthur (Ben) from Derek Westwood and the current fashion designer Joseph Corre from Malcolm McLaren .

Awards

literature

  • Mulvagh, Jane (1999): Vivienne Westwood. The lady is a punk. Biography. Düsseldorf: Marion von Schröder Verlag, 519 pp., Ill., German by Christiane Bergfeld. Original title: Vivienne Westwood. An unfashionable life. HarperCollins Publishers, London, ISBN 3-547-76941-8 .
  • Pollack, Anna: Fashion queen Westwood at the Vienna Burgtheater. An investigation into fashion designers as costume designers: Vivienne Westwood's costumes for “The Threepenny Opera”. Vienna: University of Vienna , diploma thesis, 2001, 198 pp., Ill., Data set.
  • Wilcox, Claire (2005): Vivienne Westwood . Nicolaische Verlagsbuchhandlung, Berlin, approx. 244 p., Approx. 367 color illus., 20 b / w illus., ISBN 3-89479-254-X .
  • Beatrice, Luca & Guarnaccia, Matteo (Eds.): Vivienne Westwood: Shoes. Damiani, Bologna 2006, ISBN 88-89431-84-9 , (English).
  • Jones, Terry (2012): Fashion: Vivienne Westwood. Taschen , Cologne, hardback, ISBN 978-3-8365-3887-9 .
  • Westwood, Vivienne & Kelly, Ian (2014): Vivienne Westwood. Translated from English by Stefanie Schäfer. Eichborn, Cologne, 575 pp., ISBN 978-3-8479-0571-4 , excerpts in the Google book search.

Movies

Exhibitions

See also

Web links

Commons : Vivienne Westwood  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Fashion photos
Interviews

Individual evidence

  1. Uli Hesse, dpa : Vivienne Westwood: The mother of punk fashion is 75. In: Frankfurter Rundschau , April 7, 2016.
  2. a b c Gertrud Lehnert: History of fashion in the 20th century. ( Memento of July 1, 2003 in the Internet Archive ), Könemann, Cologne 2000, ISBN 3-8290-0513-X , (excerpt).
  3. a b “From 1989 Vivienne had taught three days a month at the Vienna Academy of Applied Arts. Her Parisian friend Jean-Charles de Castelbajac recommended her for the position to replace him. ”In: Vivienne Westwood, & Ian Kelly, Vivienne Westwood , Eichborn, Cologne, 575 pp., 2014, ISBN 978-3-8479- 0571-4 , quoted on p. 461.
  4. Vivienne Westwood, & Ian Kelly, Vivienne Westwood , Eichborn, Cologne, 575 pp., 2014, ISBN 978-3-8479-0571-4 , reference on p. 66.
  5. Vivienne Westwood, & Ian Kelly, Vivienne Westwood , Eichborn, Cologne, 575 pp., 2014, ISBN 978-3-8479-0571-4 , reference on p. 78.
  6. Vivienne Westwood, & Ian Kelly, Vivienne Westwood , Eichborn, Köln, 575 pp., 2014, ISBN 978-3-8479-0571-4 , reference on p. 80.
  7. Vivienne Westwood, & Ian Kelly, Vivienne Westwood , Eichborn, Köln, 575 pp., 2014, ISBN 978-3-8479-0571-4 , reference on p. 92.
  8. Vivienne Westwood, & Ian Kelly, Vivienne Westwood , Eichborn, Köln, 575 pp., 2014, ISBN 978-3-8479-0571-4 , reference on p. 105.
  9. Punk Pistol. ( Memento of March 3, 2013 in the Internet Archive ). In: punkpistol.com .
  10. Ben Westwood: The Orb. In: worldsendshop.co.uk , August 14, 2013.
  11. ^ Bonnie Johnson: For Britain's Vivienne Westwood, the Mother of Punk, It's the Prophet Motive That Counts. In: People , May 4, 1987.
  12. see Terrorism Bill 2005
  13. Picture gallery: Presentation of the “Red Label” collection 2008. In: Tagesspiegel , February 15, 2008.
  14. Designer Vivienne Westwood - 75 years of perspective. In: Süddeutsche Zeitung , April 7, 2016.
  15. Berit Gründlers: Uniforms from Vivienne Westwood - Virgin: Red, classic, sexy. In: aeroTelegraph.com , July 11, 2014.
  16. Mareile Grimm: “Don't buy anything!” In: stern , February 3, 2006, interview, photos .
  17. John Fairchild: Chic savages. Simon & Schuster, New York City 1989, ISBN 978-0-671-68334-4 , excerpt in John Fairchild: Chic Savages , New York Magazine , pp. 45, October 16, 1989, pp. 44-54.
  18. ^ Amy Verner: Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. In: Vogue , March 5, 2016.
  19. Maria Bobila: Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Renames after Husband and creative director Andreas Kronthaler. In: fashionista.com , February 26, 2016.
  20. Erica Dsouza: Vivienne Westwood's fast expanding café line sets shop in HK's Harbor City mall. In: luxurylaunches.com , October 26, 2015.
  21. a b Cordula Reyer : Westwood's husband declares unusual love. In: Die Welt , June 24, 2010, interview with Kronthaler.
  22. ^ Anne Przybyla: Vivienne Westwood says goodbye to Berlin. In: Kölner Stadtanzeiger , June 27, 2005.
  23. ^ Anna Pollack: Modequeen Westwood at the Vienna Burgtheater. An investigation into fashion designers as costume designers: Vivienne Westwood's costumes for “The Threepenny Opera”. Diploma thesis, University of Vienna, 2001, data set.
  24. Philipp Wilhelmer: The dance into the new year with Vivienne. In: Kurier , December 31, 2013.
  25. Press release: New Year's Concert 2014 live on ORF: Michael Beyer stages the Vienna Philharmonic and Vienna State Ballet. In: APA , December 10, 2013, accessed on January 5, 2015.
  26. Vivienne Westwood: Can mass culture be art? Only thinking changes the world. ( Memento from February 11, 2013 in the web archive archive.today ). In: KulturAustausch , (ZfK) Heft 3 + 4, 2005.
  27. Liberty: Vivienne Westwood. ( Memento of February 5, 2006 in the Internet Archive ), September 2005.
  28. Meret Baumann (bam.): New nuclear submarines for Great Britain. Parliament for expensive rearmament. In: NZZ , March 14, 2007.
  29. Vivienne Westwood does without fur! ( Memento of November 6, 2007 in the Internet Archive ). In: Umweltjournal.de , November 2, 2007.
  30. Active Resistance to Propaganda ( Flashplayer ) and as PDF (14 p., 100 kB).
  31. ^ A b Corina Kolbe: Rembrandt instead of Che Guevara. In: Die Zeit , November 12, 2007.
  32. Natascha Freundel: Fight against consumption! Vivienne Westwood gives “Berlin Lessons”. In: Deutschlandfunk , November 11, 2007.
  33. "T-shirts for Julian." Westwood supports Assange. In: Handelsblatt , October 30, 2012.
  34. Dame Vivienne Westwood reveals she visits 'incredible' Julian Assange every month. In: Daily Telegraph , February 4, 2016, with video: “He knows more about what's going on in the world than anybody I've ever met. He's incredible. "
  35. APA: Vivienne Westwood presented the Julian Assange T-shirt. In: Der Standard , June 20, 2016.
  36. Sven Michaelsen: "Buy less!" In: SZ-Magazin , Issue 8, 2012, interview with Westwood.
    Vivienne Westwood. In: Cool Forest .
  37. ^ Fashion Designer and Environmental Campaigner. In: Cool Forest , accessed June 25, 2016.
  38. Prominent support for the Awá. In: Survival International , accessed May 6, 2013.
  39. Bettina Weber: Much prominence in the oil protest. Vivienne Westwood calls for a fight against Shell. The really big ones came. In: Tages-Anzeiger , July 27, 2015.
  40. You make the difference. Become an arctic protector now. ( Memento from February 11, 2018 in the Internet Archive ). In: Greenpeace / savethearctic.org .
  41. Photo: Celebrating at the Milan fashion week. In: Gala , June 23, 2008.
  42. Barbara Fluckinger: A visiting fashion icon. Vivienne Westwood attended the Almabtrieb in Reith im Alpbachtal. In: mein district.at , October 24, 2018.
  43. Cathy Horyn: The Queen V. In: The New York Times , October 18, 2009.
  44. ^ Piers Beeching: Me & my garden: Vivienne Westwood. In: The Daily Telegraph , August 6, 2009.
  45. PETA UK Vegan Fashion Awards 2015. In: peta.org.uk , 2015.
  46. ^ Westwood Exhibition 2004. ( Memento June 24, 2004 in the Internet Archive ). In: Victoria and Albert Museum .
  47. Vivienne Westwood in Düsseldorf, February 6 to May 14, 2006. ( Memento of March 22, 2006 in the Internet Archive ). In: art-perfect.de .
    ap: Vivienne Westwood in the NRW Forum. From punk rebel to fashion queen. In: Rheinische Post , February 3, 2006.