Yves Saint Laurent

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Yves Saint Laurent, 1976, graphite drawing by Reginald Gray
Signet of the YSL fashion division since 2012

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (French [ iv sɛ̃ lɔʁɑ̃ ]; born August 1, 1936 in Oran , Algeria , † June 1, 2008 in Paris ) was an internationally known French fashion designer who founded the fashion company Yves Saint Laurent in Paris in 1961 founded.

Saint Laurent, who was dubbed the “revolutionary” of fashion design by experts during his lifetime, had a great impact on style in the world of fashion and was honored as a luminary in the field of upscale, elegant women's fashion even after his death . The fashion designer, who worked in Paris from 1953 to 2002 and began his career as Christian Dior's assistant , embodied French haute couture fashion like few other designers . The greatest influence was left behind in 1967 by Saint Laurent's creation of a trouser suit for women (“Le Smoking ”), which emphasized the feminine form in an elegant and matter-of-fact way and thus also had an emancipatory effect.

The company and with it the Yves Saint Laurent brand , or YSL for short , exist to this day and were owned by the Gucci Group from the end of 1999 , which in turn was gradually acquired by the French PPR Group (since 2013: Kering S.A. ) from 1999 to 2004 . Through its own network of boutiques and upscale retailers, the company offers high-priced prêt-à-porter clothing for women and men as well as leather goods , shoes , watches , jewelry , glasses , accessories , perfumes and cosmetics in the luxury goods segment worldwide . From March 2012 to March 2016, Hedi Slimane was chief designer for all of the company's fashion collections. Under Slimane, the fashion division was renamed Saint Laurent Paris in 2012 , with the company itself continuing to operate as Yves Saint Laurent SAS . A relaunch of the haute couture collection, which was discontinued in 2002, was launched by Slimane in 2012, but has so far not been implemented, apart from a few individual items. The Belgian Anthony Vaccarello was appointed Slimane's successor in April 2016.

life and work

Saint Laurent was the son of Charles Saint-Laurent, the owner of an insurance company and a cinema chain, and his wife Lucienne-Andrée, née Wilbaux (1914-2010). The grandparents of both families came from Alsace-Lorraine and fled to North Africa during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/71. Yves was the oldest child and was born a year after his parents married, two daughters, Michèle and Brigitte, followed. He grew up in the city of Oran in Algeria, where he attended high school up to the Baccalauréat . He discovered his passion for costumes during a theatrical performance of Molière's "Critique de l'École des femmes" (Critique of the School of Women) . At the age of eleven, he was already making sketches and drafts for the stage. For Saint Laurent, the world of fashion was also a refuge from the bullying of his classmates. He was his mother's favorite child, who subscribed to French fashion magazines and liked to discuss her new clothes with her tailors .

In 1953, in response to an advertisement in Paris Match , at the age of seventeen , Saint Laurent submitted three of his own designs to the annual fashion competition of the International Wool Secretariat (IWS) from Algeria and achieved third place with an evening dress . After initial contacts at the award ceremony in Paris, Saint Laurent began training as a fashion and stage draftsman in 1954 at the fashion school of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture of the Paris Fashion Association, which he did not finish. In the same year he again submitted three designs to the IWS fashion draftsman's competition, including that of a cocktail dress , with which he took first place. Karl Lagerfeld won first prize in the 'Coat' category in the same competition. From an initial friendship between Saint Laurent and Lagerfeld, rivalry developed over the years. Saint Laurent's fashion drawings were published in Vogue magazine and the cocktail dress went into series at Givenchy . Michel de Brunhoff, the then director of French Vogue , introduced the young designer Christian Dior . Saint Laurent worked for him until his death in 1957 and at the age of 21 was promoted by the owner of the Dior company, Marcel Boussac, to artistic director after Boussac had actually wanted to close the company, but was urged by licensees to continue . In March 1958, Saint Laurent met his future partner and business partner Pierre Bergé at a dinner with the French fashion journalist Marie-Louise Bousquet ( Harper's Bazaar ).

Memorial plaque for Yves Saint Laurent in the Jardin Majorelle

In 1960 Saint Laurent was drafted for military service in Algeria, where the Algerian war had raged since 1955 , and suffered a nervous breakdown before he left . He was transferred to a mental institution in the Val de Grâce Hospital, where he was treated with electric shocks and drugs ( sedatives ). A lifelong drug addiction was the result. His employer, the fashion house Dior , therefore released him from his employment contract. This circumstance was not inconvenient for Boussac, as he had no longer been in favor of Saint Laurent's creations for Dior. Bergé, on the other hand, believed in Saint Laurent's talent and did everything possible to get him out of psychiatry. Then he and Saint Laurent sued Dior for breach of contract and received 680,000 francs in compensation. With this start-up capital, the two were able to set up their own business in 1961. Through the investment of the US financier J. Mack Robinson (1923-2014) from Georgia , who held 80% of the shares, Saint Laurent and Bergé founded the fashion company Yves Saint Laurent Couture . The graphic designer AM Cassandre contributed the YSL logo in 1963. Saint Laurent and Bergé separated in 1976 on friendly terms, but they continued to be business partners and confidants. Bergé continued to take care of Saint Laurent and stood by him through his worst times. From the mid-1970s, Saint Laurent's health deteriorated increasingly; In 1977, a false report in the press even announced his death. With short recovery times, he was plagued by drug side effects , anxiety , nervous breakdowns and depression and fled into alcohol and drug abuse . In the 1990s he wrote prose poems in the style of Lautréamont's Chants de Maldoror .

After Saint Laurent retired from the fashion business in 2002, he lived largely isolated in the Villa Majorelle in Marrakech , in his art-adorned Parisian apartment on Rue de Babylone and in the Norman Château Gabriel in Deauville , whose rooms are based on characters from Marcel Proust's novel cycle “ A la recherche du temps perdu »were named.

In 2007, a malignant brain tumor ( glioblastoma ) was discovered at Saint Laurent . Shortly before his death on June 1, 2008 in Paris, he and Bergé sealed their lifelong bond with a formal marriage . 800 invited mourners attended the Catholic funeral service in the parish church of St-Roch (Paris), including President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife Carla Bruni , Bernadette Chirac , Bertrand Delanoë , Farah Diba , Catherine Deneuve , Loulou de la Falaise , Betty Cartoux and many others befriended fashion designers such as Sonia Rykiel , Christian Lacroix , Jean Paul Gaultier , Valentino Garavani , John Galliano and Marc Jacobs took part. Saint Laurent's ashes were scattered in the rose garden of the Jardin Majorelle of his villa in Marrakech, which he and Bergé had acquired in 1980.

Company history

Former signet

Yves Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent's first collection for Dior in January 1958, the "Ligne Trapèze", was an overwhelming global success. The "trapezoidal line" freed women from being forced to wear a wasp waist and presented them in a less rigid form in a nonetheless elegant way. He freed the costumes one more time, this time from padding and stiffening on the waist, chest and shoulders, but without renouncing the splendor and fullness of the costumes à la Dior. Saint Laurent dramatically rejuvenated and modernized Dior's collections in the “ Op Art fashion” style over six seasons, making him unpopular with older customers and the owner of the Dior company. Saint Laurent's employment with Dior ended in 1960.

Saint Laurent's collections under his own name were sometimes considered scandalous in the 1960s. He was one of the first fashion designers to use transparent fabrics ( nude look ). His first, conservatively held couture presentation in 1962 met with a mixed response. His consistent use of black fabrics and the use of jersey material found little favor in the early 1960s, until this too became a trend . In 1965, to the delight of the international fashion press, colorful, geometrically patterned costumes and Mondrian dresses in the style of Piet Mondrian followed . In 1966 the “Schiwago look” was created with the first transparent tops, which provoked a scandal: the transparent, black chiffon blouses with bow collars should be worn without underwear. In the period that followed, the transparent look established itself in advertising photography in the western world.

During the 1960s and 1970s, the company popularized fashion trends such as the beatnik look, tweed suits, tight trousers and tight, thigh-high boots and in 1966 also the classic trouser suit for women ( ladies' tuxedo ) . As early as 1962, the French actress Catherine Deneuve was the first woman to wear a modified haute couture tuxedo by Yves Saint-Laurent for women . Saint-Laurent added the tuxedo, which he called Le Smoking , to his newly created, luxurious prêt-à-porter collection Rive Gauche for the 1966 season in 1965 and from then on offered it in numerous variations for women. Saint-Laurent's tuxedo for women was a fashionable symbol of the second wave of the women's movement and thus the emancipation of women in the 1960s. To this day, the Yves Saint-Laurent collection offers contemporary versions of Le Smoking for women.

In 1966, Saint Laurent opened his first shop in Paris for the somewhat cheaper prêt-à-porter fashion line Rive Gauche , thereby opening up new groups of buyers. The Yves Saint Laurent company was the first haute couture house to establish a clothing line . In 1968, a rive gauche boutique opened in New York City. In 1969, four years after women's fashion, men's fashion from Rive Gauche followed for the 1970 season. As early as 1963 Bergé had made license agreements for a YSL perfume with the US perfume manufacturer Charles of the Ritz ; In 1964 the cosmetics division YSL Beauté was launched and the women's fragrance Y was launched. Charles of the Ritz, now merged with Lanvin , bought his 80% stake in the fashion company YSL from the American investor Robinson in 1965 for one million dollars and in 1969 sold his shares in both the fashion and perfume divisions to the American company Squibb Beech -Nut . In 1972, Bergé and Saint Laurent acquired all the shares in the fashion division and in return left Squibb Beech-Nut the perfume division YSL Beauté with low license fees. In 1971, alongside the women's perfume Rive Gauche, the men's fragrance, YSL pour Homme, appeared, for whose advertising Saint Laurent had himself photographed naked in an artistic pose for the press. From the mid-1970s, the YSL range was massively expanded through licenses for, for example, women's stockings, sunglasses, writing implements, home items and even cigarettes, etc.

In 1977, the extremely successful women's perfume Opium was released , but critics saw it as a 'call for drug abuse'. In 1986, Saint Laurent and Bergé bought back the perfume division YSL Beauté from Squibb for $ 630 million , supported by a 25% investment by Carlo de Benedetti in the YSL fashion house . Over the years, YSL has released countless fragrances and their variations, including Kouros (men, 1981), Paris (women, 1983), Jazz (men, 1988), Champagne (women, 1993, renamed Yvresse ), Opium pour Homme ( Men, 1995), Baby Doll (women, 1999), M7 (men, 2002), Rive Gauche pour Homme (men, 2002), L'Homme (men, numerous variations, from 2006), Elle (women, 2007), Parisienne (women, 2009), Manifesto (women, 2012), Le Vestiaire des Parfums (series of particularly high-priced fragrances, from 2015), Black Opium (women, 2015), Y (men, 2017), Mon Paris Couture (women, 2017) and others.

Saint Laurent created the androgynous type at a time when the femininity of women was still the dominant doctrine. In 1968 he invented the safari look, and in the 1970s he was inspired by Russian folklore . Other designs that had become popular were the new “nostalgic look” at the end of the 1960s and the “noble peasant woman look” in trendy colors in the mid-1970s. From the end of the 1970s, Saint Laurent withdrew from the Rive Gauche clothing line, leaving the design to others, such as his muse since 1972, Loulou de la Falaise , and concentrating on haute couture. In the early 1980s he designed bolero and liftboy jackets.

The rather audience-shy couturier and his brand YSL gained more and more international attention. Well-known muses of Saint Laurent were Loulou de la Falaise, Betty Catroux and Catherine Deneuve. Saint Laurent was one of the first fashion designers to book black models . Because the fashion magazine Vogue refused to put Naomi Campbell on the cover of the French edition, he threatened the editorial team in 1988 with the cancellation of advertisements. He has remained loyal to the world of the stage since childhood, making costumes for Zizi Jeanmaire , Roland Petit , Rudolf Nurejew and Catherine Deneuve, among others . Saint Laurent was also inspired by the style of the painters Delacroix , Goya , Matisse , Mondrian , Picasso , van Gogh and Velázquez . In 1983, works by Yves Saint Laurent were exhibited at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art . He was the first living fashion designer to receive this honor there.

In 1989 the Yves Saint Laurent company was listed on the Paris Stock Exchange . In 1991, Saint Laurent and Bergé personally paid investor de Benedetti in times of global recession. A takeover of YSL by L'Oréal failed due to the unwillingness of Saint Laurent and Bergés to sell to L'Oréal's shareholder, Nestlé . A purchase by LVMH failed because Saint Laurent and Bergé not only wanted to keep control of the YSL fashion division, but also wanted control of the fashion division of the LVMH subsidiary Dior. In 1993, Saint Laurent and Bergé sold YSL to pharmaceutical company Sanofi for nearly $ 600 million when sales fell sharply during a recession . However, Saint Laurent and Bergé retained control of the fashion division. In 1997, the later Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz for women's fashion and the later Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane for men's fashion were hired by Yves Saint-Laurent Rive Gauche . Elbaz and Slimane both stayed with YSL through 2000.

At the beginning of 1999, PPR boss François Pinault bought the Sanofi company through his Artémis holding . At the same time, PPR bought a 40% stake in Gucci. At the end of 1999, Gucci again bought the Yves Saint Laurent brand with the YSL fashion division and the YSL Beauté cosmetics division from Sanofi for six billion francs (around 917 million euros). The American fashion designer Tom Ford , then chief designer at Gucci, took over responsibility for the Rive Gauche collections from 2000 , while Yves Saint Laurent himself continued to design the haute couture collections.

In 2002 Yves Saint Laurent withdrew from the business with a much-noticed and mourned fashion filee. Celebrities from the world of fashion and cultural life said goodbye to Saint Laurent. His favorite models Naomi Campbell , Jerry Hall and Laetitia Casta performed for him one last time and Catherine Deneuve sang a love song. The Vogue ruled his life's work. "Coco Chanel and Christian Dior were top notch, but Yves Saint Laurent is a genius" With Saint Laurent's retreat was the haute couture line of the House on 31 July 2002 set. Since then, Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé have no longer held any shares in the company.

Original clothes and accessories designed by Saint Laurent himself are kept in a private museum in the La Villette district of Paris . The "Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent" founded in 2004 preserves 5,000 clothes, 15,000 accessories and drawings by Saint Laurent at a constant temperature of 18 ° C and a humidity of 50%. In 2017, the Yves-Saint-Laurent Museum was opened in Marrakech on the initiative of the "Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent" . Around 50 original Saint Laurent dresses are exhibited in the museum, which are periodically exchanged for other Saint Laurent dresses.

Succession

Tom Ford left YSL in late 2003 to focus on his own clothing line. In 2004, PPR increased its stake in the Gucci group to 99.4%, to which YSL had belonged since 1999 after the acquisition of Sanofi. The Italian Stefano Pilati - a former designer for Giorgio Armani and Prada , who had worked as a designer for YSL at Ford's suggestion since 2000 - was appointed Ford's successor that same year. In 2005 over 900 employees worked for the company and achieved a turnover of 162 million euros.

At the beginning of 2008, PPR sold the cosmetics and perfume group YSL Beauté , which now also includes the brands Roger & Gallet , Boucheron Parfums , Stella McCartney Parfums and, under license, the perfume divisions of Ermenegildo Zegna and Oscar de la Renta , for 1.15 billion euros the French cosmetics manufacturer L'Oréal. In the same year, after 10 years of continuous losses at YSL, with a turnover of 263 million euros and an operating profit of 300,000 euros, the company was back in the black. Sales in the 2009 financial year were EUR 238 million with another operating loss of EUR 10 million and EUR 269 million in 2010 with an operating profit of EUR 12 million, which represents 12% of the annual turnover of the Gucci Group mattered. In 2010 there were 78 boutiques around the world operated directly by YSL. In 2011, PPR dissolved the Gucci group within the group, so that since then all group brands, including Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci, have operated as subsidiaries with equal rights. Chief designer Pilati was replaced in 2012 by the former Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane, who had already worked for YSL from 1997 to 2000, and then switched to Ermenegildo Zegna.

In summer 2012 it was announced that the ready-to-wear line for women and men, launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 1965 under the name Saint Laurent - Rive Gauche and later established as Yves Saint Laurent - Rive Gauche , has been in use since the end of the Haute Couture Line 2004 is the only fashion line of the house, is renamed Saint Laurent or officially Saint Laurent Paris and is designed by Hedi Slimane in his studio in Los Angeles. The company itself, and especially the company's cosmetics division, will continue to operate under the name YSL Yves Saint Laurent . Slimane's first presentation of Saint Laurent womenswear was shown in a side wing of the Grand Palais at Paris Fashion Week in early October 2012 and received mixed reviews. In his first presentation of Saint Laurent menswear on January 20, 2013 Slimane showed an “ultra-slim army of skinny rock musicians with long hair” in a “ grunge homage with tattered skinny jeans and long knitted scarves” by an “almost terrifying army of skinny rock musicians with long hair” embodied by androgynous models Silhouette ”, as he had once presented it at Dior Homme, and thus prompted the critics to question the timeliness of this style. Despite the moderate criticism from the trade press, the transformation initiated by Slimane resulted in high sales figures for the company from consumers in the retail sector . According to Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault (until 2013: PPR), Slimane, who was publicly praised by Pierre Bergé for his restructuring measures at YSL, has “successfully rejuvenated and repositioned” the YSL brand. In 2015 Slimane started the Reform Project , as part of which studios were set up in Paris and Slimane designed selected haute couture models as so-called couture privé , which were intended for friends of the house and were not presented at the official haute couture shows in Paris.

Slimane's contract was not renewed by Kering in March 2016. Under Slimane's creative leadership, sales rose from € 353 million in 2011 to € 974 million in 2015. On April 4, 2016, Kering appointed Belgian and former Versus designer Anthony Vaccarello as creative director of Saint Laurent Paris. For the 2017 financial year, Kering reported sales growth of 27.3% at Saint Laurent.

The ateliers and studios of Saint Laurent Paris are located in the Rue de l'Université in Paris not far from the School of Fine Arts in the Quartier Saint-Germain-des-Prés . In a former abbey on Rue de Bellechasse near the Solferino metro station , the YSL corporate headquarters will be built for 2018. The Yves Saint Laurent Museum is located on Avenue Marceau, between Avenue Montaigne and the Musée Galliera (until 2017: Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation).

Art collection

In the course of his life, Yves Saint Laurent acquired hundreds of works of art and paintings of the highest quality and from all periods of style. Art was reassurance and inspiration for him, as his art dealer Alexis Kugel said. The principle of such a mix of styles was deliberately chosen from the start; the couple Viscount Charles and Viscountess Marie-Laure de Noailles were the model for an ensemble of treasures. “With them we learned to mix styles, eras and continents,” said his partner Pierre Bergé . The Parisian art dealers Alexis and Nicolas Kugel and the picture dealer Alain Tarica were her main sources of supply. From February 23 to 25, 2009, after six months of preparation, her collection of 733 works of art in the Grand Palais in Paris was closed at an auction that was recognized worldwide and often referred to as the auction of the century . The collection included - in addition to goldsmith work from the House of Hanover - Art Deco furniture, but also paintings by artists such as Henri Matisse , Giorgio de Chirico , Pablo Picasso , Paul Klee , James Ensor , Marcel Duchamp and Frans Hals . The painting “Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose” ( The cowslips, tablecloth in blue and pink ) by Matisse from 1911 reached a record value of 32.1 million euros at the auction of the private collection on February 23, 2009 and is the highest Auction proceeds ever made for a French painter. The painting by the Dutch painter Piet Mondrian “Composition with blue, red, yellow and black” was auctioned for 19.2 million euros. The auction brought in a total of 374 million euros, which is the highest amount ever for a private art collection in Europe. Half of the proceeds from the joint private collection of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé will be donated to a new foundation for research projects on the fight against AIDS and half to the foundation "Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent", which is supposed to preserve and develop the entire collection of the fashion designer.

Quotes

“ I know that I have advanced fashion and opened up a previously forbidden universe to women. "

- Yves Saint Laurent, 2002

“ I just have a gift. It's mysterious, but nature has given me a talent: to know, to feel what women want. And at the right time. I don't have to go out and travel to do that. I just have good antennas. "

- Yves Saint Laurent

“ Nothing is more beautiful than a naked body. The most beautiful piece of clothing a woman can wear is a hug from a man who loves her. And for those who do not find this happiness, I am there! "

- Yves Saint Laurent

“ Coco Chanel gave women freedom, Yves Saint Laurent gave them power. "

- Pierre Bergé

“ Fashion doesn't quite have the rank of art. But it needs an artist to survive. "

- Yves Saint Laurent, 2002

Awards

Filmography

  • Yves Saint Laurent - incredibly beautiful. Portrait of the fashion designer, France, 1994, 45 min., Script and director: Jérôme de Missolz, production: La Sept, arte , summary
  • Yves Saint Laurent - Time found again. Documentary, France, 2001, 78 min., Written and directed: David Teboul, production: Movimento, Canal + , INA , German first broadcast: February 28, 2011
    The young documentary filmmaker David Teboul accompanied Yves Saint Laurent for three months in 2000. Two films were made, a biography (Yves Saint Laurent - The Time Again) and a workshop report (Yves Saint Laurent. 5, Avenue Marceau) , which were broadcast on German television in 2002.
  • Celebration , documentary, France, 2007, written and directed by Olivier Meyrou
  • Fashion guru Yves Saint Laurent has died. TV report, Germany, 2009, 3:16 min., Director: Alexander von Sobeck, production: ZDF , heute-journal , first broadcast: June 2nd, 2008
  • The YSL auction breaks records. TV report, Germany, 2009, 2:20 min., Director: Alexander von Sobeck, production: ZDF , today in europe, first broadcast: February 24, 2009
  • Yves Saint Laurent - Pierre Bergé. L'Amour fou. Documentary, France, 2009, 98 min., Director: Pierre Thoretton, production: Les Films du Lendemain, Les Films de Pierre, France 3 Cinéma, world premiere: 22 September 2010, review .
  • Yves Saint Laurent: The Last Show. Documentary, France, 2013, 51 min., Written and directed by Loïc Prigent, production: arte France, Deralf, Story Box Press, first broadcast: March 3, 2013 by arte, table of contents with video excerpt from arte.
  • Yves Saint Laurent . Biopic, France, 2014, 104 min., Written and directed by Jalil Lespert, with Pierre Niney in the title role, release date: April 17, 2014, The biography begins in 1957 with the recruitment of the young Yves Saint Laurent at Christian Dior and treated the collaboration or relationship with his partner Pierre Bergé until the fateful year 1976. Short video
  • Saint Laurent . Biopic, France, 2014, 135 min., Written and directed by Bertrand Bonello , with Gaspard Ulliel as YSL and Helmut Berger as the aging Yves Saint Laurent.

literature

chronologically
  • Collection Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. Catalog for the art collection, Christie's , Paris 2009, 211 pages, online catalog (PDF; 4.3 MB)
  • Murphy, Robert (text) and Terestchenko, Ivan (photographs): Yves Saint Laurent & Pierre Bergé. The collection , Collection Rolf Heyne, 2009
  • Ressos, Xenia: 16 x Yves Saint Laurent in the Museum of Applied Arts. In: Kölner Museums-Bulletin, 1, 2008, pp. 12-13
  • Ressos, Xenia: 16 x Yves Saint Laurent. Booklet accompanying the exhibition of the same name in the Museum of Applied Arts Cologne, Cologne 2008
  • Drake, Alicia: The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris. London, Bloomsbury 2006, 448 pp., ISBN 978-0-7475-8546-6
  • Teboul, David: Yves Saint Laurent. 5, avenue Marceau , 75116 Paris, France. From the Franz. Von Bernadette Ott, Munich, Knesebeck 2002, 528 p., Overw. Ill., ISBN 3-89660-119-9
  • Boulat, Pierre; Benaïm, Laurence; Bergé, Pierre: Debut - Yves Saint Laurent 1962. Photographs by Pierre Boulat; text by Laurence Benaïm; captions by Pierre Bergé. Transl. from the French by Alexandra Bonfante-Warren, New York, London, Harry N. Abrams 2002, 125 p., overw. Ill., ISBN 0-8109-0561-2
  • Rawsthorn, Alice: Yves Saint Laurent. The biography. From the English by Frank Böhmert , Reinbek bei Hamburg, Rowohlt-Taschenbuch-Verlag, 2000, 445 pages, ISBN 978-3-87203-253-9
  • Saint Laurent, Yves: Yves Saint Laurent and fashion photography. With a text by Marguerite Duras . From the Franz. Von Simon Werle , Munich, Schirmer-Mosel 1998, 232 p., Overw. Ill., ISBN 3-88814-818-9
  • Bergé, Pierre: Yves Saint Laurent. Munich, Schirmer / Mosel 1997, 78 p., Overw. Ill. (Partly in color)
  • Saint Laurent, Yves: Yves Saint Laurent. Fashion drawings by Yves Saint Laurent. May 30th - October 26th 1986 at the Musée des Arts de la Mode in Paris, exhibition Yves Saint Laurent 28 Années de Création. With a foreword by Bernard-Henri Lévy and interstitial texts by Hélène de Turckheim. From the Franz. Von Germain Courage, Tübingen, Wasmuth 1986, 221 p., Mainly illustrated (partly in color)

items

Pictures and videos

Picture gallery

  • Caricature by Yves Saint Laurent

  • Portrait drawing by Yves Saint Laurent

  • YSL property in Marrakesh

  • Tomb of Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakesh

  • Yves Saint Laurent for Dior, 1955

  • Yves Saint Laurent for Dior, 1958

  • Yves Saint Laurent for Dior, 1959

  • Mondrian dress by YSL, 1965

  • Mondrian dresses from 1965

  • Wedding knitted dress, 1965

  • YSL design from 1966

  • YSL models from 1966

  • Safari jacket, 1968

  • YSL dress from 1969

  • YSL caftan, 1976

  • YSL evening dress, 1976

  • YSL dress, mid 1970s

  • YSL tuxedos for women

  • YSL women's model

  • YSL tuxedo, 1982

  • YSL dress, 1982

  • YSL fashion show 1985

  • Tom Ford for YSL, 2004

  • YSL cigarettes

  • YSL women's perfume Opium

  • YSL women's perfume Manifesto

  • YSL Beauté department store area

  • YSL boutique on Rodeo Drive , 2005

  • YSL boutique in Houston, 2008

  • YSL Rive Gauche Boutique in Berlin, 2011

  • YSL boutique in Munich, early 2012

  • Saint Laurent Boutique Hong Kong, 2013

  • Accessory boutique in Hong Kong, 2014

  • Accessory boutique in Hong Kong, 2014

  • Yves Saint Laurent Museum on Avenue Marceau

  • Yves Saint Laurent Museum on Avenue Marceau

Web links

Commons : Yves Saint Laurent  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Wikiquote: Yves Saint Laurent  - Quotes

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ han / AFP / dpa / AP: His clothes made women powerful , Spiegel online , June 2, 2008
  2. ↑ Dorothea Hahn: Revolutionär des Frauenbildes , taz , June 2, 2008
  3. ↑ Gabriele Strehle : “Yves Saint Laurent for the Seventieth: My Mode Magician” ( Memento from September 21, 2013 in the Internet Archive ), FAZ , August 1, 2006
  4. ↑ PPR History , ppr.com, accessed: December 2, 2011
  5. ↑ Jina Khayyer: Designer Hedi Slimane - Return of the Radical , Die Zeit , March 8, 2012
  6. ↑ Jina Khayyer: Yves Saint Laurent - Radical puzzles in Paris , Die Zeit, October 29, 2012
  7. ↑ Saint Laurent Paris , vogue.de, July 24, 2012
  8. ↑ The next uncompromising at Yves Saint Laurent , faz.net, April 4, 2016
  9. ↑ APA : “Mother of Yves Saint Laurent died” , Der Standard , June 30, 2010
  10. ↑ a b Dirk van Versendaal: “Yves Saint Laurent. The man who attracted women ” , stern , June 3, 2008
  11. ↑ Lagerfeld licks against Joop, Gaultier and Saint Laurent , Der Spiegel , May 18, 2001
  12. ↑ Isabelle Graw: Rivalry of the Iridescent , taz , January 15, 2007
  13. ↑ Mary Rourke: “Yves Saint Laurent, 71; icon of French fashion design " , Los Angeles Times , June 2, 2008
  14. ^ Rose-Maria Gropp: "The Art of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé" , FAZ, February 15, 2009
  15. ↑ Marc Zitzmann: “The young man and fashion. On the death of Parisian couturier Yves Saint Laurent ” , Neue Zürcher Zeitung , June 3, 2008
  16. ↑ Michael Meier: "Yves Saint Laurent, the delicately-strung genius" ( Memento from June 12, 2008 in the Internet Archive ), Tages-Anzeiger , June 3, 2008
  17. ^ Jean-Pierre Beuve: "Les Russes débarquent à Deauville" , Ouest-France , February 23, 2009
  18. ^ "Obituary for Yves Saint Laurent: All Paris Wears Black" , Die Presse , June 2, 2008, with picture gallery
  19. ↑ Tobias Schmidt: Adieu Yves Saint Laurent , Die Welt , June 5, 2008
  20. ^ "Les cendres d'Yves Saint Laurent dispersées dans son jardin de Marrakech" , AFP , June 12, 2008
  21. ↑ Tobias Schmidt: “Farewell: Adieu Yves Saint-Lauren” , Die Welt , June 5, 2008
  22. ↑ go-feminin.de: Yves Saint-Laurent, the Unforgettable ( Memento of April 9, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) (last accessed: May 16, 2010)
  23. ↑ Sigrid Neudecker: "The World of Yves Saint-Laurent" , Die Zeit , March 10, 2010
  24. ^ "Yves Saint-Laurent and the ladies' tuxedo" ( Memento from February 22, 2014 in the Internet Archive ), arte .tv, March 12, 2010
  25. ↑ : Obituary: "He gave women power" , Die Zeit, June 11, 2008
  26. ↑ Claudia Voigt: “Why not?” Spiegel Online , January 25, 2010
  27. ^ "Stefano Pilati: The Italian Dandy" , Die Presse , August 19, 2008
  28. ↑ About J. Mack Robinson . gsu.edu, accessed May 8, 2018
  29. ^ Yves Saint Laurent Cigarettes Light a Spark of Controversy . latimes.com, January 25, 1985
  30. ↑ A makeover for the scandalous fragrance “Opium” . welt.de, February 17, 2010
  31. ↑ Advertising photo for opium: “Yves Saint Laurent - a life for women” ( Memento from August 2, 2012 in the web archive archive.today ), FTD , June 2, 2008
  32. ↑ CHARLES OF THE RITZ SOLD TO YVES SAINT LAURENT . nytimes.com, November 19, 1986
  33. ^ Squibb Sells Charles of the Ritz Cosmetics to Yves Saint Laurent . latimes.com, November 19, 1986
  34. ↑ Naomi Campbell about Yves Saint Laurent (audio) , Interview in Channel 4 News, June 1, 2008, 5:32 min.
  35. ↑ "Campbell's YSL Tribute" ( December 4, 2008 memento in the Internet Archive ), Vogue, June 3, 2008
  36. ↑ "Naomi Campbell: the fashion industry as racist as never before" , dpa / Bunte , February 6, 2008
  37. ↑ Fashion: Gucci takes over Yves Saint Laurent . Abendblatt.de, November 16, 1999
  38. ↑ Gucci plans to take over Yves Saint Laurent welt.de, November 16, 1999
  39. ↑ Video Yves Saint Laurent turns 70 (ZDF, August 1, 2006)  in the ZDFmediathek , accessed on February 11, 2014. (offline)
  40. ^ "The Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent foundation has set itself three primary goals" , Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent
  41. ↑ Amy Frearson: Studio KO celebrates Yves Saint Laurent's oeuvre in the Marrakech museum. October 20, 2017, accessed May 19, 2020 .
  42. ^ Brigitte Werneburg: Museum Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco: Long-cherished dream . In: The daily newspaper: taz . October 19, 2017, ISSN  0931-9085 ( taz.de [accessed on May 19, 2020]).
  43. ↑ Holly Brubach: Man with a mission , wmagazine.com, February 2011
  44. ↑ kw / tde: "'Women in power': Yves Saint Laurent was way ahead of his time" ( Memento of June 3, 2008 in the Internet Archive ), Europolitan , June 2, 2008
  45. ↑ Cosmetics: L'Oreal wants a Yves Saint Laurent license . diepresse.com, January 24, 2008
  46. ↑ L'Oréal buys prominent brands . horizont.net, January 25, 2008
  47. ↑ Black is back at Yves Saint Laurent , ft.com via imgur.com, March 8, 2009
  48. ↑ PPR Annual Report 2010 (PDF; 1.2 MB), ppr.com, accessed: December 2, 2011
  49. ↑ kmi / DPA: Slimane becomes YSL designer. The man Karl Lagerfeld answered for , stern , March 7, 2012.
  50. ↑ Verena Stehle: Designer change at Yves Saint Laurent - Hedi comes home , Süddeutsche.de , February 28, 2012
  51. ↑ designtagebuch.de - "Yves Saint Laurent" becomes "Saint Laurent Paris" July 26, 2012
  52. ↑ name change at YSL , news.at 26 July 2012 at
  53. ↑ 'Yves Saint Laurent': The name remains , nachrichten.ch, July 10, 2012
  54. ↑ ulz / dpa / AP: Paris Fashion Week: Well-Protected Premiere , Spiegel online, October 2, 2012
  55. ↑ Clark Parkin: Man holds back , welt.de, January 27, 2013
  56. ↑ Clark Parkin: Not Quite Quiet Days in Paris , Die Welt, January 21, 2013
  57. ↑ Fall 2013 Menswear: Saint Laurent , style.com, January 20, 2013
  58. ↑ Suzy Menkes: Definitely a Grunge Fest , New York Times , Jan. 21, 2013
  59. ↑ Saint Laurent Paris - Dark Future? , gala.de, April 12, 2013
  60. ↑ Mr. Provocative , nytimes.com, April 7, 2013
  61. ^ Critics Be Damned, Hedi Slimane's First Collection for Saint Laurent Is a Hit at Retail , fashionista.com, April 18, 2013
  62. ↑ Pierre Bergé gives Hedi Slimane his seal of Saint Laurent approval , telegraph.co.uk, March 22, 2013
  63. ↑ Francesca Bellettini becomes CEO of Yves Saint Laurent , textilwirtschaft.de, July 4, 2013
  64. ↑ Couture Comeback , harpersbazaar.de, July 30, 2015
  65. ↑ Vaccarello is supposed to upgrade Yves Saint Laurent , badische-zeitung.de, April 6, 2016
  66. ↑ (Yves) Saint Laurent: This is how Reset works , diepresse.com, April 6, 2016
  67. ^ How Anthony Vaccarello Is Making Saint Laurent His Own . vogue.com, February 13, 2018
  68. ↑ Inside the New Saint Laurent . nytimes.com, February 17, 2017
  69. ^ Béatrice De Rochebouet: "Bergé, Saint Laurent: la vente du siècle" ( Memento of March 9, 2009 in the Internet Archive ), Le Figaro , February 23, 2009
    Alexis Kugel: "Pour Yves Saint Laurent, l'art était un besoin vital, indispensable à son inspiration, comme l'eau pour survivre. Il apaisait son caractère dépressif. ”
    Translation:“ For Yves Saint Laurent, art was a necessity of life, it was indispensable for his inspiration like water for survival. It calmed his depressed character. "
  70. ↑ Angelika Heinick: "A Mondrian on the catwalk" , FAZ , February 4, 2009, with a series of pictures
  71. ↑ Angelika Heinick: “Princely treasures. The Yves Saint Laurent Collection ” , FAZ, October 2, 2008
  72. ↑ Angelika Heinick: “ Collecting art was a physical need for him” , FAZ, February 5, 2009, interview with Alexis Kugel
  73. ↑ Rose-Maria Gropp: “A collection without equal. Die Unique “ , FAZ, March 1, 2009
  74. ↑ Rose-Maria Gropp: “The Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé Collection. The Trial by Fire ” , FAZ, February 24, 2009
  75. ↑ Picture: "Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose" , The Guardian , February 2009
  76. ↑ a b "Yves Saint Laurent: the auction" , Süddeutsche Zeitung , February 24, 2009, with Reuters video, 1:47 min.
  77. ↑ "The collection of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé realises € 373.9 million" (PDF; 168 kB), Christie's, February 25, 2009
  78. ↑ a b c Angela Ulrich: “Parisian fashion world is mourning. Yves Saint Laurent is dead ” (tagesschau.de archive), tagesschau , June 2, 2008
  79. ↑ Astrid Mayer: “All of Paris is full of sadness” , stern , June 3, 2008
  80. ↑ Andreas Osterhaus: "Yves Saint Laurent says 'Adieu'" , Frankfurter Allgemeine , January 7, 2002
personal data
SURNAME Saint Laurent, Yves
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Saint-Laurent, Yves Henri Donat Mathieu (full name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French fashion designer
BIRTH DATE August 1, 1936
PLACE OF BIRTH Oran
DATE OF DEATH June 1, 2008
PLACE OF DEATH Paris