Ermenegildo Zegna

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Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia SpA

logo
legal form Società per azioni
founding 1910
Seat Milan , ItalyItalyItaly 
management
  • Paolo Zegna, CEO
  • Gildo Zegna, CEO
sales 1.18 billion EUR (2017)
Branch Textile industry
Website www.zegna.com

Ermenegildo Zegna ( eɾmeneˌʤildo ˈʣeɲɲa ) or Ermenegildo Zegna Holditalia SpA , based in Milan, is an Italian vertically integrated fashion and textile company named after its founder owned by the Zegna family, which has been producing fine fabrics since 1910 and men's fashion in the upper and upper classes since 1968 Price segment designs, manufactures and sells.

history

The name derives from the founder of the company, the tailor and entrepreneur Ermenegildo Zegna (1892-1966) from the 1910 as a 18 year old in the fabric weaving his father Angelo Zegna, who actually trained watchmaker was and a small company with four looms had built , got into Trivero . In the same year, Ermenegildo - the youngest of 10 children - founded Lanificio Zegna (German "Wollweberei Zegna"), took over the factory after his father's death in 1923 and began producing high-quality fabrics.

By 1930 the company had grown to 1,000 employees and mainly produced fine suit fabrics . Zegna fabrics were exported to the USA as early as 1938 and delivered to 40 countries after the Second World War . With the death of Ermenegildo Zegna in 1966, his sons Aldo (1920-2000) and Angelo (* 1924) took over the business.

Starting in 1968, the company also offered its own suit collections, initially only in ready-to-wear sizes and, from 1972, as tailor-made suits ( Su Misura ). To this day, Zegna only produces men's fashion. In the course of the company's expansion at the end of the 20th century, however, the luxury label Agnona (founded in Agnona in 1953 ), which exclusively produces women's fashion, was acquired in 1999 .

Products

Zegna boutique in Rome , 2015
Zegna boutique in Hong Kong , 2009

The product range has been steadily expanded to this day and includes suits, shirts , casual clothing, shoes , accessories, etc. Certain items in the collections are developed, manufactured and sold by licensees , such as glasses (from 2004 license to De Rigo), underwear ( from 2006 Perofil) or clocks (from 2010 Sowind). Since 2003, various men's fragrances have also been offered under the Zegna brand . The perfume licensee was initially YSL Beauté from 2003 and Estée Lauder from 2011 .

Collections

  • Ermenegildo Zegna - high-priced main collection
    • Zegna Sartorial - elegant business clothes
    • Zegna Upper Casual - exquisite casual clothing
    • Zegna Couture - luxury collection in the top price segment (until 2005: Napoli Couture )
    • Ermenegildo Zegna Su Misura - (Eng. Made to measure ) bespoke tailoring service within the main line (since 1972)
  • Z Zegna - fashionable second line for younger customers in the upper price segment (since 2004)

From 1998 to 2014, the sporty Zegna Sport line was also in the upper middle price segment. Zegna Sport was integrated into the newly aligned Z Zegna collection in mid-2014 and thus effectively discontinued.

The collections of the two brands Ermenegildo Zegna and Zegna Sport were designed by internal design teams until the end of 2012. On January 1, 2013, the former Yves Saint Laurent designer Stefano Pilati from Milan was appointed creative director of Ermenegildo Zegna and Agnona . Z Zegna has its own chief designer. This role was taken on from 2003 (for the 2004 season) to 2011 by the Italian Alessandro Sartori (* 1967), who moved to Berluti in 2011 . He was succeeded by the British Paul Surridge, a former Jil Sander designer. In 2014, when the Zegna Sport brand was discontinued, Surridge was put on the side of its former chief designer, Murray Scallon, as co-designer. In late 2014, Surridge left the company; he was replaced by the former Jil Sander designer Francesco Muzi. Since 2008, the Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna collections have been presented separately at the Milan Fashion Weeks. At the beginning of 2016, Alessandro Sartori returned to Zegna as creative director and thus successor to Stefano Pilati.

In 1997, the medium-priced license brand EZ by Zegna for young men was introduced exclusively for the Japanese market in cooperation with the textile manufacturer Sanyo Shokai , for whom there were also their own stores. This label had already existed on the US market in 1993 under the designer Kim Herring.

Zegna also sells the fabrics it produces to other internationally known fashion companies. There is also u. a. a manufacturing cooperation called VeZe with the fashion house Versace and its men's and women's line Versace Collection , and the men's fashion designed by Tom Ford since 2006 is also produced by Zegna. From 2000 to 2010 there was a joint venture with Giorgio Armani for the production of the Armani Collezioni men's collection. In the leather goods and shoes sector, Zegna has been cooperating with Salvatore Ferragamo via the ZeFer joint venture since 2002 .

Companies

Zegna boutique in Warsaw , 2011

The company is firmly in the hands of the Zegna family. The key positions are held by the grandchildren of Ermenegildo Zegna:

  • Ermenegildo 'Gildo' Zegna (* 1955, son of Angelo Zegna, with the company since 1982) is CEO of the Zegna Group
  • Anna Zegna (* 1957, daughter of Angelo Zegna) is image consultant of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group and also President of the 2000 founded Foundation Fondazione Zegna
  • Paolo Zegna (* 1956, son of Aldo Zegna) is Chairman of the Zegna Group
  • Laura Zegna (* 1950, daughter of Aldo Zegna) is the director of the Oasi Zegna (nature park founded in 1993 on 100 km² near Treviro)
  • Benedetta Zegna (* 1965, daughter of Angelo Zegna) is the director of the Zegna sales school
  • Renata Zegna Schneider (daughter of Aldo Zegna) is a member of the Board of Directors , her husband is one of the largest raw material traders in the world and a supplier to the Zegna Group

It is contractually stipulated, but has not yet happened, that a Zegna family member is only allowed to sell his company shares to other family members - "at a painful discount".

Zegna employs over 7,000 people worldwide - including at its own production sites in Italy , Spain (since 1973), Switzerland (since 1977), Turkey and Mexico - and produces around 350,000 suits, one million pieces of casual clothing and one and a half million scarves annually . In the Lanificio Zegna in Treviro, where the fabrics are manufactured, around 450 employees work and produce around two million meters of fabric per year. In 2003, the company acquired 50% of the Chinese men's clothing company SharMoon, but according to its own information "not to relocate production to China", but rather to be firmly established in the Chinese market. The company is pushing ahead with expansion in China, for example with boutique openings.

Zegna controls the entire value chain for its own products, from purchasing the raw materials to manufacturing the fabrics to the design and sale of the finished goods . In 2008, nearly forty percent (38%) of sales were made in the EMEA region , as much in Asia / Australia (36%), 22% in North America and 4% in Latin America . At the end of 2011, Zegna operated 557 stores in around 40 countries around the world, more than 300 of which were in-house. The first German boutique was opened in Düsseldorf in 2000 ; since then there have been Zegna stores in Hamburg, Berlin, Frankfurt am Main and Munich, as well as an outlet shop in Metzingen. In 2010 the company celebrated its 100th anniversary. At the end of 2010, Zegna launched an online shop for the main collection and the Zegna Sport line on its own website .

The annual turnover of the Zegna Group in 2008 was EUR 870.6 million (net profit EUR 62.3 million) and in 2009 it was EUR 797 million (net profit EUR 17.3 million). For the 2011 financial year, the company posted sales of EUR 1.13 billion with a net profit of EUR 115 million ( EBITDA : EUR 233 million).

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ repubblica.it - ​​Zegna torna a crescere e pianifica nuove aperture
  2. ↑ Ermenegildo Zegna - History and Development (PDF; 82 kB), zegnagroup.it, accessed: April 30, 2011
  3. ↑ Measured tone , indiatoday.intoday.in, December 1, 2008
  4. ↑ Z Zegna merges with Zegna Sport  ( page no longer available , search in web archives ), textilwirtschaft.de, May 13, 2014@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de
  5. ↑ Stefano Pilati goes to Ermenegildo Zegna , gq-magazin.de, September 2012
  6. ↑ Buongiorno Milano: Stefano Pilati now designs for Zegna , welt.de, September 5, 2012
  7. ^ Forza Famiglia ( Memento from June 24, 2011 in the Internet Archive ), gq-magazin.de, April 28, 2008
  8. ↑ Alessandro Sartori is the new chief designer at Zegna , fashionmag.com, February 5, 2016
  9. ↑ zegna.com (English): Tom Ford announces partnership with Ermenegildo Zegna ( Memento of October 11, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) (Tom Ford announces collaboration with Ermenegildo Zegna), February 27, 2006
  10. ↑ Anna Zegna on Her Grandfather ( English )
  11. ↑ Ermenegildo Zegna: The teaching of the Zegna , bilanz.ch, October 29, 2010
  12. ^ Zegna: From the finest cloth , bilanz.ch, December 21, 2007
  13. ^ Bilanz.ch: Zegna: From the finest cloth , December 21, 2007
  14. ↑ zegna.com (English): Zegna acquires 50% of SharMoon ( Memento of October 11, 2007 in the Internet Archive ) (Zegna acquires 50% of SharMoon), March 28, 2003
  15. ↑ zegna.com (English): Zegna Group - Sales breakdown by area 2008  ( page no longer available , search in web archives ) ( Zegna Group - sales breakdown by region)@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.zegna.com
  16. ↑ Ermenegildo Zegna: Sales fall by 8% in 2009 , April 29, 2010
  17. ↑ zegna.com (English): The (Zegna) Group today
  18. ↑ Zegna invests in its own retail , textilwirtschaft.de, June 5, 2009
  19. ↑ Ermenegildo Zegna: Sales fall by 8% in 2009 , textilwirtschaft.de, April 29, 2010
  20. ^ Zegna: Profits explode thanks to China ( Memento from December 19, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) textilwirtschaft.de, April 25, 2012