Versace

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Gianni Versace SpA

logo
legal form Società per azioni
founding 1978
Seat Milan , ItalyItalyItaly 
management
  • Jonathan Akeroyd, CEO
sales EUR 668.7 million (2016)
Branch Fashion , luxury goods
Website www.versace.com

Versace [ veɾˈsaːʧe ] is an Italian fashion company founded in 1978 by Gianni Versace in Milan .

After Gianni Versace's death in 1997, his siblings Santo Versace and Donatella Versace took over the management of the company, which was mostly family- owned until 2018 . Under the name Versace , high-priced clothing , leather goods and accessories for women, men and children as well as fragrances , furnishings and jewelry are sold via a global network of its own boutiques and upscale retailers . Since a company takeover at the end of 2018, Versace has been part of the US American Capri Holdings .

brand

Versace Boutique in Bocca Di Leone, Rome
Versace store in Vienna

The first Versace fashion show for women, on the initiative of the German textile trader Albert Eickhoff , who on the designs of the then little-known Gianni Versace in 1976 in Florence became aware, in February 1978, composed of former top models Jerry Hall in the Municipal Theater of Lippstadt place . Gianni Versace, originally from Reggio Calabria , had previously founded Gianni Versace SpA with his brother Santo in Milan , after having worked as a fashion designer for other brands since 1972. The first Versace boutique opened in the spring of 1978 in Via Spiga, Milan. The first pastel - colored presentation of women's fashion was followed by Versace men's fashion in September 1978. Versace's sometimes opulent and daring designs were recognized in various ways by the trade press, referred to as "vulgar" by designer colleagues and critics and enthusiastically received by customers. Gianni Versace himself was named "Master of Neo-Baroque " because of his extravagant creations . Versace's sister Donatella was also employed in the family business from the start.

Bright colors, shiny materials, provocative cuts, figure-hugging dresses, short skirts, tight trousers, opulent embellishments and decorations, deep necklines , brightly printed men's silk shirts , sexy, elegant evening gowns - all of this describes the fashion of Versace. In addition to the art of Andy Warhol , Roy Lichtenstein and Op-Art , Gianni Versace saw ancient Rome and the mythology of ancient Greece as sources of inspiration for his fashion: a Medusa head and a Zeus head were, for example, brand symbols of his fashion creations. In contrast to the discreetly reserved fashion of his unloved colleague Giorgio Armani or the highly elegant women's fashion by Valentino , Gianni Versace was always interested in sensational staging of his downright decadent fashion. In addition to classic cloths, he also used leather or rubber and metal in a wide variety of designs for his designs . The Versace family's extravagant lifestyle was a reflection of the Versace fashion displayed on the catwalks.

With designs for plays , especially for La Scala in Milan , or for the stage appearances of international stars such as Elton John , Versace was able to establish itself as a costume and fashion designer in the art scene from the early 1980s . The Victoria and Albert Museum in London dedicated an exhibition to him as early as 1985, and others followed. In the late 1980s, supermodels such as Naomi Campbell , Claudia Schiffer and Linda Evangelista were associated with Versace. Versace designed the costumes for the 1995 film Showgirls , in which the main character portrayed by actress Elizabeth Berkley mispronounces the company name and corrected it by Kyle MacLachlan .

The advertising of the house Versace, for which, among others, from 1979 with Richard Avedon , Helmut Newton or Bruce Weber has worked together has always been a reveling in color and luxury. In the 1980s and 1990s, Versace was one of the most successful international fashion brands. In 1994, the then little-known Elizabeth Hurley caused a sensation worldwide with her black safety pin dress , which was only held together on the sides by oversized, golden safety pins. After Madonna had already worked as a model for Versace in 1995, this collaboration was renewed in 2005. Madonna was photographed for the motifs by star photographer Mario Testino . Even Jon Bon Jovi has modeled for Versace for years. In the follow-up campaign, Versace was able to engage actress Demi Moore . Halle Berry was hired for the spring / summer 2006 collection .

Brand portfolio

Multi-story Versace boutique on 5th Avenue , New York City
Versace store on Kuznetsky Most Street, Moscow
Former Versace Jeans retail store in Macau
Versace retail space in Harrods

Fashion collections

  • Atelier Versace - Couture women's fashion in the top price segment
  • Versace - catwalk line with women's and men's fashion in the upper price segment
  • Versace Jeans Couture - Sportswear collection in the mid-price segment awarded as a license to Swinger International, formerly called 'VJC Versace' or 'VJC Versace Jeans Couture'
  • Young Versace - children's collection for 0 to 12 year olds

Brand history

On the one hand, the main Versace line (with a stylized Medusa head as a trademark) with clothing for women and men, jewelry and watches , accessories , perfumes , cosmetics and home accessories is positioned in the upper price segment. These products, which generate around 60% of total sales, are sold through an international network of more than 80 own or third-party Versace boutiques as well as around 120 other sales outlets in shops. With the Versace Collection , which was priced slightly lower than the main line - in its beginnings from 1991 still called Versace Classic V2 Uomo - Versace worked in the field of fashionable men's business fashion in a joint venture called VEZE with Ermenegildo Zegna . From 1997 there was also the corresponding women's collection Versace Classic V2 Donna for a few years . At the end of 2010, the Versace Collection (Donna) was reintroduced in collaboration with Zegna. After the takeover by Capri Holdings in 2018, the ready-to-wear fashion of the Versace Collection ( Uomo and Donna ) was discontinued.

In addition, Versace has been running its own haute couture line for women with Atelier Versace since 1989 . The atelier fashion was presented at the costly Parisian haute couture shows from 1990 to 2000 - primarily in the Hotel Ritz . Although the Atelier collection was continued, Versace withdrew from the Paris shows in 2004, only to return there in January 2012. The elegant women's evening wear from the Versatile fashion line was offered until the end of the 1990s.

The second line Istante for women and men , launched in 1985 (with a stylized Zeus head as a trademark), which was headed by Gianni Versace's partner Antonio d'Amico and for which there were own stores with conservative-chic ready-made clothing , was discontinued in 1998.

On the other hand, a second market area is aimed at younger customers and, in the past, included the second youth line Versus , launched in 1989 by Gianni Versace for women and men , which was managed by Donatella Versace from 1990. With the exception of a few accessories, Versus was almost shut down in 2004 and was reintroduced as a women's collection in 2009 with the British designer Christopher Kane. Kane left the company in late 2012; as a result, Versus was designed as a women's and again as a men's brand in collaboration with changing designers. In 2015, Donatella Versace named Belgian Anthony Vaccarello as Versus Creative Director. Vaccarello moved to Saint Laurent in the spring of 2016 . After the takeover by Michael Kors, Versus was merged with the Versace Jeans license line , see below, in 2018 to form Versace Jeans Couture .

On the other hand, the fashion lines Versace Sport (introduced in 2005 as a replacement for Versus ) and VJC Versace Jeans Couture were offered as a license for sporty leisure fashion for women and men . Versus , Versace Sport and VJC were produced on behalf of the Versace Group by IT Holding (Ittierre SpA ) until the licenses, after the bankruptcy of Ittierre in 2009, to the Gruppo Facchini / Swinger International from Verona (to which the fashion brand Byblos also belongs, for whom Gianni Versace once worked as a designer) passed over. Swinger named VJC Versace Jeans Couture in Versace Jeans around and produced this line until today, the fashion line Versace Sport has been set, and the Versus license was for the purpose of in-house production of Versace at its factory in 2011 Novara retrieved. With the merger of Versus and Versace Jeans in 2018, the name Versace Jeans Couture was revived as a collection name . These collections are sold through an international network of 56 boutiques and around 1800 retail outlets.

The Young Versace children's collection, launched under license in 1989 and led by Donatella Versace from 1993, existed until 2004 and was reintroduced in 2011.

License business

Versace porcelain from Rosenthal

Licenses for bags , shoes , watches and jewelry ( Versace Precious Items or Versace Fine Jewelery ), glasses (manufactured by Luxottica), tableware (in cooperation with Rosenthal AG ), home accessories and furniture ( Versace Home Collection ), tiles for walls and floors ( Versace Ceramic Design , manufactured by Gardenia Orchidea, Italy) and perfumes (Euroitalia).

In 2010, in cooperation with LG , Versace launched a mobile phone in various versions under the name Versace Unique , the sales price of which was over 5000 euros.

Gianni Versace launched the company's first perfume in 1982 for women and named it after his full name. The men's fragrance Versace l'Homme followed in 1984. Since then, countless fragrances for women and men have been released by Versace, including Versus Donna (women, 1991), Versus Uomo (men, 1991), blue jeans (women, men, 1994 and numerous variations in the following years), Versace Woman (women, 2000), Versace Man (men, 2003), Versace (women, 2007), Versace pour Homme (men, 2008 and numerous variations in the following years), Eros (men, 2013; women 2014 ), Dylan Blue (men 2016; women, 2018), Atelier Versace Fragrances (unisex, 2019).

Hotels

Lobby of the Palazzo Versace in Australia (2009)

Palazzo Versace is a since late 2000 run by the Versace Group, about 80 km south of Brisbane located luxury hotel on the Australian Gold Coast , arriving at the The Leading Hotels of the World is one and in Germany as a base for the stars from the RTL -Series I'm a Star - Get Me Out of Here! is known. Originally, in 2008, then in 2010, another for the equivalent of about 450 million euros Palazzo Versace Bur Dubai in Dubai Open. After financial difficulties, the opening of the Palazzo Versace Dubai was gradually postponed from 2011 to the end of 2014 at the earliest and was finally completed in November 2015. Further palazzo hotels, for example in Macau (opening as part of the Grand Lisboa Palace expected in mid-2018), are planned.

German boutiques

Versace has five of its own boutiques in Germany at Frankfurt International Airport , Goethestrasse in Frankfurt am Main , on Düsseldorf Königsallee as well as at Munich Airport and on Maximilianstrasse in Munich . In Austria, Versace is represented in Vienna and at Vienna Airport . In Switzerland, there is a Versace store in Geneva. Outside the official boutiques, Versace products are available in upscale retail outlets.

Group

Gianni Versace had planned shortly before his death to bring the Versace brand to the stock exchange . With his death, Donatella inherited 20%, her daughter Allegra 50% and Santo 30% of the company, along with high inheritance tax obligations. Santo became managing director and Donatella chief designer. The family holding company that controls Versace is called GIVI Holding SpA .

Evening dress designed by Gianni Versace

After Gianni Versace's death, the Versace family fell into a crisis. Sales fell, retailers withdrew, and debts piled up. The brand's sales fell from more than $ 1 billion (including license revenue) in 1996 to less than half of the late 2000s. In the early 2000s, Santo and Donatella had to sell numerous assets that Gianni Versace had accumulated during his lifetime, including the luxurious Miami villa in front of which Gianni was shot. In 2002 losses of $ 7.1 million were reported. In 2003, Santo gave up his position as managing director. With Giancarlo Di Risio, previously head of IT Holding and Fendi , an outside manager became CEO of Versace for the first time in 2004. In 2008 the Versace estate on Lake Como had to be sold. In the course of years of restructuring , some Versace clothing lines were discontinued, around 25% of employees were laid off, the previously flamboyant Versace look was moderated in all collections, the boutiques in Japan were closed and divisions such as perfume and jewelry were outsourced. It was not until 2008 that the company was back in the black and then reported an operating loss of almost 50 million euros in 2009.

In November 2008, Versace held a fashion show in the People's Republic of China for the first time with the presentation of a collection in Beijing . At the end of 2009, the company's debt was over 80 million euros. In 2009, Di Risio was replaced by former Jil Sander CEO Gian Giacomo Ferraris. For the 2011 financial year, with sales revenues of 340.2 million euros and net new debt of 29.5 million euros, a positive result of 8.5 million euros was achieved.

In mid-2011, the fashion chain Hennes & Mauritz announced that Versace would be offering 2011 - as before Karl Lagerfeld (2004), Stella McCartney (2005), Viktor & Rolf (2006), Roberto Cavalli (2007), Comme des Garçons (2008), Matthew Williamson (2009), Jimmy Choo (2009) and Lanvin (2010) - will take on the role of guest designer at H&M and a collaborative collection will be available for women, men and at home from November 2011 .

In early 2014, the US investor Blackstone Group acquired a 20% stake in Versace, which was valued at an enterprise value of one billion euros. An additional investment of 150 million euros is associated with the shares bought by the Versace family for 60 million euros. For the late 2010s, the Versace company put the IPO in the room. In 2015, the company re-entered the Japanese market. Since May 2016, Versace has been managed by the former Alexander McQueen manager Jonathan Akeroyd. The annual turnover in 2016 was almost 670 million euros. From 2016 to spring 2017, the company opened 38 new Versace stores worldwide. At the beginning of 2018, Donatella Versace declared that she wanted to do without fur in her collections in the future.

In September 2018, Versace was taken over by the Michael Kors group of companies for 1.8 billion euros.

family

  • Gianni Versace (1946–1997)
  • Donatella Versace (* 1955), sister of Gianni
  • Santo Versace (* 1944), brother of Gianni
  • Allegra Versace (* 1986), daughter of Donatella
  • Daniel Versace (* 1989), musician, son of Donatella
  • Francesca Versace (* 1984), designer, daughter of Santo
  • Antonio Versace, son of Santo

Movie

The family history of the Versaces was adapted for American television in 2013 under the title House of Versace - A Life for Fashion .

Web links

Commons : Versace  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. Versace: Akeroyd is the new Versace boss ( Memento from May 23, 2016 in the Internet Archive ), textilwirtschaft.de, May 23, 2016.
  2. fashionnetwork.com - Why the Versace family decided to sell
  3. Albert Eickhoff - Versace's discoverer. zeit.de, May 4, 2011
  4. ^ Albert Eickhoff - the fashion patriarch. rp-online.de, April 28, 2011.
  5. Versace History: 1978 , versace.com, accessed May 24, 2011.
  6. Versace - Committed to the vulgar. faz.net, March 28, 2006.
  7. Nice vulgar. zeit.de, July 16, 2006.
  8. Versace und die Kunst  ( page no longer available , search in web archives ), textilwirtschaft.de, June 22, 2006.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de
  9. 10th anniversary of Gianni Versace's death - The sun king of fashion. sueddeutsche.de, July 11, 2007.
  10. ^ Times Topics> People> V> Versace, Gianni , nytimes.com, accessed: June 21, 2011.
  11. Star portraits: Elizabeth Hurley  ( page no longer available , search in web archives ), rtv.de, December 18, 2007.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.rtv.de
  12. Versace - Museum Consecrations. focus.de, December 8, 1997.
  13. Haute Couture Shows: The Return of the Glamor Girls. zeit.de, January 25, 2012.
  14. Versace ends collaboration with Ittiere , textilwirtschaft.de, September 4, 2009.
  15. Swinger International: Versace Jeans , swinger.it, accessed: September 10, 2012.
  16. Versace brings Versus back. ( Memento from October 14, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) fabeau.de, February 22, 2011.
  17. Versace is again offering children's fashion. textilwirtschaft.de, May 13, 2011.
  18. Versace-Handy Unique - luxury in leather. ( Memento of February 3, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) fem.com, May 28, 2010.
  19. Hotels of fashion designers - Long live abundance , sueddeutsche.de, January 28, 2011.
  20. ^ At the luxury hotel Palazzo Versace - Dubai wants beach to cool  ( page no longer available , search in web archives ), rp-online.de, December 17, 2008.@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.rp-online.de
  21. Prêt-à-vivre - The couturier as hotel designer ( Memento from September 6, 2012 in the web archive archive.today ), ftd.de, September 9, 2010
  22. Palazzo Versace Dubai 80% completed , dubaichronicle.com, May 17, 2011.
  23. Dubai's first Versace hotel won't open until end-2014. arabianbusiness.com, September 19, 2013.
  24. ^ SJM Casino Resort Cotai: Palazzo Versace opens in 2017, construction to begin soon , macaudailytimes.com, September 6, 2013.
  25. Hotels by Top Fashion Designers Lagerfeld and Versace to Open in Macau theculturetrip.com, August 14, 2017
  26. Versace | Find A Boutique
  27. Imprint , versace.com, accessed: March 1, 2014
  28. Versace is back in the black ( Memento from April 5, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) ,wirtschaftsblatt.at, March 27, 2012.
  29. Versace is operating in the black , textilwirtschaft.de, March 29, 2011.
  30. Donatella Versace develops collection for H&M , textilwirtschaft.de, June 21, 2011.
  31. Versace to design iconic collection for H&M this autumn ( Memento from June 25, 2011 in the Internet Archive ), hm.com, June 21, 2011.
  32. Versace for H&M , vogue.de, June 21, 2011.
  33. Blackstone joins Versace , handelsblatt.com, February 27, 2014.
  34. Versace sells minority stake to Blackstone , wsj.com, February 27, 2014.
  35. Donatella Versace Says Fur Is Over. vogue.com, March 14, 2018.
  36. ^ "Takeover by Michael Kors" , Spiegel Online , September 25, 2018
  37. businesswire.com: Michael Kors Holdings Limited to Be Renamed Capri Holdings Limited