Berluti
Berluti is a 1895 by the Italian Alessandro Berluti in Paris , founded shoe - factory , in addition maßangefertigen and ready-made men's shoes in the top price segment, since 2005, exclusive leather goods for men and since 2011 high-priced Be clothing manufactures men's and its own network of Berluti - Sold to boutiques worldwide. The company has been part of the French luxury goods group LVMH since 1993 .
Company history
The company was founded in Paris in 1895 by the trained carpenter Alessandro Berluti (1865–1922), who came from Senigallia , Italy and had emigrated to France. Initially, he made stage shoes for an acting troupe from Italy and, after a few years in the trade, produced high-quality bespoke shoes for end consumers. He presented his exclusive shoe models at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1900 . In 1905 Berluti returned to Italy and continued his shoe business in Senigallia. In 1928, Alessandro's son Torello moved to Paris and opened a Berluti boutique in Paris' Rue du Mont-Thabor near Place Vendôme . In the 1950s, the expansion of the company made it necessary to move to Rue Marbeuf, a side street off the Avenue des Champs-Élysées , where the Berluti headquarters are still located today. In 1959, Torello's son Talbinio, actually an architect , took over the company and, in addition to the existing made-to- measure shoes, introduced a collection of ready-made shoes that no longer had to be made to measure. The company has been run by Olga Berluti (* 1945), a niece of Torello and cousin of Talbinio Berluti from Parma , who is actually a costume designer , but has been with the company since she was a teenager and is now one of the few bespoke shoemakers in the world can count. Andy Warhol was a Berluti customer as early as 1962 and asked the then 17-year-old Olga Berluti to adapt pointed, bespoke shoes. Over the years, Berluti's customers have included the Duke of Windsor , Yul Brynner , Robert De Niro , Jean Cocteau and Gérard Depardieu .
In 1993, Berluti was bought by the French luxury goods group and its chairman, Bernard Arnault, and integrated into the LVMH portfolio as a luxury brand . With the takeover of the company by LVMH and the associated financial resources, international expansion was driven forward and further Berluti boutiques opened worldwide. In 2005 the range was expanded to include high-priced leather goods such as belts , bags and purses etc.
Berluti is known for traditional craftsmanship and the use of high-quality and different leather materials (including alligator or ostrich ), which are surface-treated in a specially developed - and sometimes unconventional - way and, depending on the collection, decorated. Bespoke shoes from Berluti, for which more than 250 work steps are estimated, are priced above 3,000 euros per pair. Shoes from the ready-to-wear collection can be bought from around 750 euros. In Christian Kracht's 1979 novel from 2001, Berluti shoes were described as the "best shoes in the world". The brand is only sold in a strictly limited way through its own network of boutiques. As of 2012, there were a total of around 35 Berluti boutiques in Paris, Cannes , London , Milan, Moscow , Beirut , Doha , Dubai , New York City as well as in Japan , China , Hong Kong , South Korea and Singapore . For 2013, the company announced the opening of its third Paris store business in the elegant 9, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore , where up to date a Façonnable -Boutique was.
The company's headquarters and flagship store are still at 26, rue Marbeuf in Paris. Olga Berluti set up her spacious studio in the Marais district in the early 2000s . The company has had the Swann Club since 1992 , to which 100 members, namely the best Berluti customers, were invited in the mid-2000s. Berluti has been managed by Bernard Arnault's son Antoine Arnault (* 1977) since spring 2011. With the hiring of the Italian fashion designer Alessandro Sartori, who previously worked for Z Zegna , the Berluti range was expanded to include an exclusive men's clothing line in mid-2011. In order to develop the men's fashion line, LVMH bought the Parisian noble men's tailor Arnys, founded in 1933, in June 2011 . The first Berluti fashion was presented in January 2012 for the autumn / winter 2012-13 season as part of the Paris fashion shows . In July 2012 LVMH also bought the company founded in 2004 by the highly acclaimed Parisian shoemaker Anthony Delos (* 1978) with the name Anthony Delos Bottier & Cie and workshop in Rosiers-sur-Loire near Angers and integrated it into the Berluti business. Delos himself is now an employee of Berluti.
Berluti's sales increased from 30 million euros in 2011 to more than 100 million euros in 2015, but no profits were made. Sartori left the company in early 2016 and moved back to Zegna. In September 2016, the Colombian-French fashion designer Haider Ackermann was appointed Berluti's chief designer. In 2017, Berluti opened an online shop that complements the 45 Berluti stores around the world at the time. Ackermann, who focuses on his own fashion brand, was followed by Kris Van Assche in mid-2018 . The latter showed its first complete Berluti collection for the autumn / winter 2019 season in Paris in January 2019.
See also
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Berluti ( Memento of the original from July 25, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , welt.de, November 13, 2007
- ^ The First Lady of Sole , time.com, August 20, 2001
- ^ Art & Sole , forbes.com, December 8, 2008
- ↑ Interview: Olga Berluti: Shoes with souls , independent.co.uk, June 27, 1998
- ↑ The heeling Power of Olga Berluti , departures.com, September 2003
- ↑ We see each other with eyes that are not ours , faz.net, October 9, 2001
- ↑ Berluti confirme son déploiement à Paris , fashionmag.com, October 24, 2012
- ^ Bespoke Man's Lace-up , nationalgeographic.com, September 2006
- ↑ Interview: Antoine Arnault ( page no longer available , search in web archives ) Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , interview.de, October 15, 2012
- ↑ Interview: Olga Berluti: Shoes with souls , independent.co.uk, June 27, 1998
- ^ Wardrobe: Step Lively , robbreport.com, Dec. 1, 2005
- ^ Antoine Arnault: prince of luxury , guardian.co.uk, October 28, 2012
- ↑ Changes at Brioni and Berluti Continue Designer Shuffle , nytimes.com, February 2, 2016
- ↑ Berluti turnover reaches € 150 million but has yet to turn a profit cpp-luxury.com, May 23, 2016
- ↑ Berluti rolls out first e-store fashionnetwork.com, June 27, 2017
- ↑ Kris Van Assche changes to Berluti horstson.de, April 3, 2018
