Hedi Slimane

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Hedi Slimane (2015)

Hedi Slimane (born July 5, 1968 in Paris ) is a French fashion designer , artist and photographer .

In the course of his career, Slimane was, among other activities, chief designer of the French fashion companies Dior Homme , Yves Saint Laurent and Céline .

Life

The son of a Tunisian and an Italian first studied journalism, then politics and art history at the École du Louvre in Paris. From 1989 to 1992 Slimane worked as a freelance art director and model scout for the Parisian fashion designer José Levy and his then newly founded fashion brand (discontinued in 2003). There Slimane met the fashion and PR manager Jean-Jacques Picart, who was well connected in the Parisian fashion world and who had helped launch the Christian Lacroix brand , and he became Picart's assistant in 1992. Picart put Bernard Arnault in contact , and Slimane was entrusted with the preparations for the 100th anniversary of the Louis Vuitton monogram.

In 1996, the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house brought Slimane, who was still unknown at the time, into the company and made him head designer of the men's collection. Saint Laurent's partner and manager, Pierre Bergé , took Slimane, who had never trained as a fashion designer, under his wing. As a YSL designer, Slimane made a breakthrough in the fashion scene; Due to its deliberately narrow cuts and silhouettes as well as a pronounced waist, it set new standards in men's fashion. After selling Yves Saint Laurent in 1999, Slimane left his post in early 2000. He moved to Berlin, where he owned an apartment for almost two years and worked as a photographer for Kunst-Werke Berlin, among other things .

From the end of 2000 Slimane designed the Dior Homme men's collections for the LVMH group as chief designer of the Christian Dior fashion house . He made his debut with the 2001/2002 winter collection. Under Slimane's leadership, the previously staid Dior men's fashion was converted to modern, slim-cut fashion collections for a young target group and Dior Homme boutiques were established. In 2002 Slimane received the Best International Fashion Designer award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America . Karl Lagerfeld , a friend of Slimane's, said himself that in 2001, following a radical diet, he lost 40 pounds in 12 months to be able to wear Dior Homme's slim suits. After Dior could not agree on a contract extension with Slimane in 2007, Slimane's former assistant, the Belgian Kris Van Assche , took over as Dior men's fashion designer. Slimane then retired to Los Angeles and worked as a photographer.

In March 2012, the Yves Saint Laurent company announced that Slimane had taken on creative direction for both the men's and women's collections at YSL. A design office was set up in Los Angeles for Slimane. He reintroduced the Saint Laurent Rive Gauche clothing line founded by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 in a historically correct manner and renamed it Saint Laurent Paris . The image of the house was changed accordingly. Slimane showed his usual slim silhouettes at Saint Laurent and brought the company sales growth from 353 million euros in 2011 to 974 million in 2015. On March 31, 2016 Slimane gave up his post at Yves Saint Laurent, among other things because he was not full had artistic control over all of the house's products. In the period that followed, Slimane, who commutes between his homes in Paris and Los Angeles , took on various exhibitions in museums around the world. After reports of a lawsuit accusing Yves Saint Laurent of paying Slimane less than a tenth of his agreed € 10 million salary between 2015 and 2016, the designer was awarded a prize by a Paris court in April 2018 Compensation of 9.3 million euros was awarded.

At the end of January 2018, LVMH announced that Slimane would be the new "Artistic, Creative and Image Director" at Céline and thus the successor to Phoebe Philo . Slimane will take over the design of women's fashion at the French fashion house, launch a couture and men's fashion collection as well as new perfumes and design new Celine boutiques.

controversy

Hedi Slimane is considered the "size zero" inventor of male models and is therefore criticized for promoting anorexia and eating disorders. In Germany, size zero corresponds roughly to suit sizes 42 to 44, whereas suits in retail are usually only available from size 48 upwards. Size zero means a BMI of less than 18. According to the WHO classification , people with a BMI of less than 18 are underweight.

Others

  • As an outspoken indie rock fan, Slimane is deeply rooted in this scene. He helped found several bands and took photos for the cover of various albums (this also resulted in his photo book Stage about his impressions of the scene). He is friends with Pete Doherty , designs the stage wardrobe for the Babyshambles and other bands, and is the scene's preferred designer.
  • The song This Lamb Sells Condos by Owen Pallett / Final Fantasy is about Hedi Slimane.
  • The punk band Keys to the Streets of Fear released a song called Hedi Slimane .
  • One of the best-selling t-shirts from the designer Henry Holland's collection bears the slogan "CAUSE ME PAIN HEDI SLIMANE".
  • The photos of various covers of Lady Gaga records are from Hedi Slimane.
  • Slimane photographed Prada ’s spring / summer male campaign in 2009 .
  • Hedi Slimane approached many of the models for his shows on the street, some made their breakthroughs in the modeling business. Isaac Ferry, son of Bryan Ferry , made his debut as a runway model at the age of 16 on a Slimane show.
  • In 2007 Slimane curated the group exhibition Sweet Bird of Youth with works by Slater Bradley, Dan Colen , Terence Koh , Douglas Kolk, Ryan McGinley , Steven Shearer, Hedi Slimane, Paul P. and Banks Violette at Arndt & Partner in Berlin. The exhibition Myths and Legends of Los Angeles followed in 2011 with works by John Baldessari , Ed Ruscha , Chris Burden , Sterling Ruby , Mark Hagen, and Patrick Hill at the Almine Rech gallery in Paris and Brussels.

Awards

Works

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Slimane becomes a YSL designer. The man for whom Karl Lagerfeld accepted Stern.de of March 7, 2012.
  2. ↑ Hedi Slimane, fashion's sharpest designer ft.com, January 26, 2018
  3. ↑ https://kurier.at/style/warum-designer-hedi-slimane-93-mio-euro-nachgeaid-bekommen/400018351. Retrieved April 9, 2018 .
  4. ↑ Hedi Slimane becomes chief designer at Céline derstandard.de, January 21, 2018
  5. ↑ Hedi Slimane named Artistic, Creative and Image Director of Céline lvmh.com, January 21, 2018
  6. ↑ The brand maker : Hedi Slimane becomes creative director of Céline gq-magazin.de, January 21, 2018
  7. ^ "Super-Hedi" and the skinny models sueddeutsche.de, April 6, 2015
  8. ↑ Information on Slimane's Cover Art Work ( Memento of the original from February 25, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Website Lady-Gaga  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.lady-gaga.de
  9. ^ Sweet Bird of Youth. Arndt, accessed August 15, 2018 .
personal data
SURNAME Slimane, Hedi
BRIEF DESCRIPTION French fashion designer, artist and photographer
DATE OF BIRTH 5th July 1968
PLACE OF BIRTH Paris