Emanuel Ungaro

Emanuel Ungaro (2009)

Emanuel Ungaro (born February 13, 1933 in Aix-en-Provence , † December 21, 2019 in Paris ) was an internationally known French fashion designer . The company he founded and named after him for women's and men's fashion and accessories still exists today, but has been run without Ungaro since 2004.

Career

Emanuel Ungaro began his career as the son of Italian parents in the early 1950s as a simple tailor in Aix-en-Provence. He created clothes for his sisters, who had the opportunity to wear them at festivities of the upper classes in Italy and in this way to promote Hungary's skills. Ungaro subsequently worked as a stylist, moved to Paris and switched to Cristobal Balenciaga as a designer in 1955 . In 1958 he was promoted to chief designer at Balenciaga, but left the company in 1964 in order to found his own haute couture fashion label , named after him, in Paris with his then partner, the textile designer Sonia Knapp . Hungary's business partner remained close to the end of the 1980s. In the early 1960s, Ungaro also worked for Courrèges , where he created futuristic models.

Ungaro became known for his extraordinary way of working: he designed entire collections directly on the model without prior sketches, whereby - with classical music - he draped, modeled, plucked, stuck, smoothed and folded the fabrics directly onto the mannequin , "until even the most sophisticated robe was tailored to the body ". Hungary's first haute couture collection comprised just 17 models, but it caught the attention of the trade press and well-off customers such as Jackie Kennedy and Marie Helène de Rothschild . His women's fashion was always elegant, very feminine, seductive and sexy. In 1967 the house Ungaro moved to the noble fashion street Avenue Montaigne n ° 2 in the 8th arrondissement , where the main building and the flagship store of the company were located until 2012. A year later, Ungaro presented its first ready-to-wear collection under the name Ungaro Parallèle on the boutique's ground floor. In 1973, Ungaro launched its men's collection, Ungaro Uomo . The hallmarks of Hungarian women's fashion were large-format, colorful, often floral print patterns on airy, flowing fabrics.

Ungaro was with the French actress mid-1980s Anouk Aimée dating and in 1988 with the Florentine married Laura Bernabei Fanfani, with whom he had a daughter who - (1990 *) is called Cosima - after his father Cosimo Ungaro.

The Ungaro company

In the 1970s , Ungaro expanded to Japan and the United States . In the 1980s, numerous perfumes were launched under the Ungaro name. In the course of time, the house of Ungaro issued numerous licenses, e.g. for subordinate fashion lines or perfumes, in the mid-1990s there were around seventy. Since Ungaro needed a financially strong partner, it was taken over in 1996 by the Italian Ferragamo Group for around $ 50 million at 75%. Ungaro remained with 25% minority shareholder and continued to be the company's president and the art director responsible for all collections . From 1997, however, Ungaro entrusted the design of the prêt-à-porter collections to his assistant Giambattista Valli to take care of the haute couture himself. At the end of the 1990s, the heyday of the house of Ungaro, an accessories collection including handbags and shoes was added. The extremely cost-intensive haute couture line was discontinued in 2004 and Emanuel Ungaro himself left the company he founded after a six-month phase in which he no longer designed anything, as did Valli.

Ungaro without Ungaro

In autumn 2005 Ferragamo appointed the French Vincent Darré as head stylist and finally sold the house of Ungaro to the Pakistani - American investor Asim Abdullah and his holding company Aimz. In autumn 2006, the Ungaro Group transferred the company's artistic direction to the fashion designer Peter Dundas , who was previously chief designer at Roberto Cavalli and had gained experience with Christian Lacroix and Jean-Paul Gaultier . In July 2007 it became known that the Norwegian was leaving the company. Dundas' successor was the young Colombian designer Esteban Cortazar. In 2007 Franck Boclet, a former designer for Francesco Smalto, was appointed menswear designer at Ungaro as successor to Jose Levy (with Ungaro since 2005). At the end of 2009, the little-known Estrella Archs, a former designer for Nina Ricci , Cacharel and Emilio Pucci , was employed as a women's fashion designer at Ungaro and the American singer Lindsay Lohan as their style consultant. Cortazar had refused to work with Lohan or other celebrity style advisors like Paris Hilton or Lizzie Jagger . The presentation by Archs and Lohan received sharp criticism and ridicule from the press in October 2009, was described as a "disaster review" and was also displeasing to company founder Emanuel Ungaro himself, who called it a "disaster". In March 2010, Lohan was released from her duties at Ungaro. Archs presented the following collection on its own again. In April 2010 Franck Boclet left the company; Ungaro's menswear division was put on hold. At the end of May 2010, the House of Ungaro announced that the British Giles Deacon, a former designer at Bottega Veneta and Gucci , would succeed Estrella Archs as head designer of women's fashion. Deacon left the house of Ungaro in mid-September 2011, however. In October 2011, a member of the design team, Jeanne Labib-Lamour, was appointed as his successor. The Ungaro brand was not represented at the Paris fashion shows for autumn / winter 2012 in March 2012, and the Italian production partner for Ungaro women's fashion announced that it had terminated the contractual relationship with the house of Ungaro, which was concluded in 2010 under Giles Deacon .

Emanuel Ungaro himself has had no connection with his former company since he left. After retiring with his family, he retired to private life in Aix-en-Provence.

Restart as a licensed brand

At the beginning of 2012, the flagship of the Ungaro brand since 1967, the elegant Ungaro flagship store on the ground floor of the noble mile Avenue Montaigne No. 2 in Paris, sold and given to Giorgio Armani SpA . However, the company headquarters remained on an upper floor at the same address. At the end of 2012, the Italian AEFFE group (Alberta Ferretti, Moschino , Pollini) announced that a seven-year exclusive license agreement for women's fashion and accessories (production and worldwide distribution) had been concluded with Ungaro. The first collection under the Hungarian designer Fausto Puglisi from Sicily named by AEFFE will be presented in spring 2013 at the Paris Fashion Weeks. From 2004 the license for the second line for women, Ungaro Fuchsia , was held by the Italian Mariella Burani Fashion Group , which was the majority shareholder of René Lezard from 2002 to 2012 , was under protection from creditors in bankruptcy proceedings from 2010 and was dissolved in 2012. For the Ungaro men's fashion, Ungaro Homme , which was shut down in 2010 , license agreements have been in place with the French Izaris Groupe and Asian fashion manufacturers (South Korea, Thailand). The perfume license is granted to Ferragamo Parfums . The House of Ungaro, like the former haute couture fashion brand Christian Lacroix , consisted only of licensing business. The cooperation with AEFFE ended in 2015; the designer Fausto Puglisi was kept by Ungaro. The Italian manufacturer Modalis Group (Studio Roscini) took over the production of the designs under license. In 2016, Philippe Paubert, who worked under Emanuel Ungaro from 1992 to 2000, was hired as a designer for the newly launched men's fashion division Ungaro Homme . The license for the Ungaro men's fashion lies with the Italian Alea Fashion Industries.

Realignment from 2017

At the beginning of 2017, Ungaro canceled participation in Paris Fashion Week and announced that the autumn / winter 2017/18 women's collection would not be produced because license partner Modalis Group was insolvent. In March 2017 the house separated from Fausto Puglisi, appointed the Italian Marco Colagrossi as creative director as part of a realignment and took over the production of the collections himself again.

At the end of 2017, the co-founder of the British women's shoe brand Malone Souliers , Roy Luwolt, took over 30% of the shares in Emanuel Ungaro SAS from Asim Abdullah and was appointed CEO of Ungaro. In January 2018, Ungaro then presented the women's shoe collection Emanuel Ungaro Paris by Malone Souliers . Colagrossi left Ungaro in April 2018. The house separated from Luwolt in October 2018. Since then, the women's collections have been created by an in-house design team.

Collections

Women's collections

• Ungaro Couture - Haute Couture Collection, launched in 1965, discontinued in 2004
• Emanuel Ungaro (formerly: Ungaro Parallèle ) - luxury prêt-à-porter line, launched in 1968, discontinued in 2011, continued as a licensed collection in 2013
• Emanuel (by) Emanuel Ungaro - youthful second line for the US market (as the successor to the Ungaro Ter collection of the 1980s), launched in 1991, discontinued
• Ungaro Fuchsia - fashionable licensed second line for women from 2002
• Ungaro Fever (formerly: Ungaro Weekend ) - sport and jeanswear line, launched in 1998, discontinued
• U by Ungaro - Licensed second line for the Asian market from 1997
• Ungaro Sun - swimwear, launched in 2004, discontinued

Men's collections (completely discontinued in mid-2010, then partly continued as a licensed collection)

• Emanuel Ungaro (originally Ungaro Uomo , later Ungaro pour homme ) - luxury ready-to-wear clothing, launched in 1973 (discontinued)
• Ungaro Homme - men's collection (initially discontinued, continued under license from 2010)
• Emanuel (by) Emanuel Ungaro - youthful second line for the US market, launched in 1991 (discontinued)
• U by Ungaro - second line for the Asian market from 1997

Fashion designer at Ungaro

• Emanuel Ungaro (Haute Couture 1965–2004, Prêt-à-porter 1968–1997)
• Giambattista Valli (Prêt-à-porter 1997-2004)
• Vincent Darré (P-à-p 2005-2006)
• Jose Levy (menswear, 2005-2007)
• Peter Dundas (P-à-p 2006-2007)
• Esteban Cortazar (P-à-p 2007–2009)
• Franck Boclet (men's fashion, 2007-2010)
• Estrella Archs (P-à-p 2009-2010)
• Lindsay Lohan (P-à-p 2009-2010)
• Giles Deacon (P-à-p 2010-2011)
• Jeanne Labib-Lamour (P-à-p 2011–2012)
• Fausto Puglisi (P-à-p 2013-2017)
• Philippe Paubert (Men, 2016-date)
• Marco Colagrossi (P-à-p 2017-2018)

Perfume

Since 1977, the house of Ungaro has launched numerous fragrances for women and men under license. The license is currently held by the Ferragamo Group. The launched (and in some cases discontinued) fragrances include (D women, H men; important or still available fragrances in bold):

Ungaro (1977, D), Diva (1983, D), Senso (1987, D), Ungaro pour l'homme (1991, H), Ungaro pour l'homme II (1992, H), Ungaro pour l'homme III (1993, H), Desnuda (2001, D), Apparition (2004, D), Apparition Homme (2005, H), U by Ungaro for her (2007, D), U by Ungaro for him (2007, H), Ungaro (2007, D), Ungaro Man (2008, H) Diva Rose (2011, D), L'Amour Fou (2011, D), Ungaro Love Kiss (2012, D), Ungaro Blue Ice (2012, H), Ungaro for him (2013, H), Ungaro Feminin (2013, D), Ungaro Masculin (2013, H), Ungaro Fruit d'Amour [in variations] (2014, D), La Diva (2016, D), Ungaro Love (2016, D), Ungaro Power (2016, H), Ungaro L'homme (2018, H), Emanuel Ungaro for her (2019, D), Emanuel Ungaro for him (2019, H)

Web links

Commons : Emanuel Ungaro  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

• Ungaro website (French, English)

Individual evidence

1. ↑ Le couturier français Emanuel Ungaro est mort , lemonde.fr, published and accessed on December 22, 2019
2. ↑ FAZ: U for Ungaro (October 11, 2005)
3. ↑ FAZ: U for Ungaro (October 11, 2005)
4. ↑ Focus: The Extra-Terrestrial (February 24, 1997)
5. ↑ WWD: Ungaro's Rocky Road: A Timeline (May 26, 2010)
6. ↑ Textile industry: Ungaro boss defends cooperation with Lindsay Lohan (November 25, 2009)
7. ↑ Textile industry: Ungaro and HAKA designer Franck Boclet split up  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. (April 29, 2010)  
8. ↑ Geomix: Giles Deacon is the new creative director at Ungaro (May 25, 2010)
9. ↑ Giles Deacon leaves Ungaro , vogue.de, September 15, 2011.
10. ↑ # 93; = 839289 & a = 0 Ungaro: Labib-Lamour is Deacon's successor ( memento of the original from November 26, 2013 in the web archive archive.today ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, October 13, 2011.  
11. ↑ Ungaro apparently gives up womenswear ( memento of the original from April 2, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, February 3, 2012.  
12. ↑ Castor does womenswear for Emanuel Ungaro ( Memento of the original from March 4, 2016 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, July 16, 2010.  
13. ↑ Emanuel Ungaro Sells Paris Flagship to Armani, Fails To Win Back Giambattista Valli , fashionetc.com, March 2, 2012.
14. ↑ Aeffe signs license agreement with Emanuel Ungaro , fashionmag.com, October 4, 2012.
15. ↑ Italy's Aeffe adds Emanuel Ungaro to brand portfolio , reuters.com, September 24, 2012.
16. ↑ Ungaro Homme reprend des couleurs , fashionmag.com, September 6, 2010.
17. ↑ Ungaro and Aeffe part ways fashionunited.uk, October 6, 2015
18. ↑ return of Ungaro menswear modepilot.de, June 21, 2016
19. ↑ Emanuel Ungaro cancels Paris Fashion Week show fashionnetwork.com, February 22, 2017
20. ↑ Emanuel Ungaro Switches Designer, Takes Production In-house wwd.com, March 6, 2017
21. ↑ Luwolt: "Così rilancerò Ungaro" - I piani del nuovo Ceo e socio corriere.it, March 5, 2017