Issey Miyake

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Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake ( Japanese 三 宅 一生 Miyake Issei ; born April 22, 1938 in Hiroshima , Hiroshima Prefecture ) is a Japanese fashion designer and founder of the fashion brand named after him. He is known for his technoid style. Since the 1970s, women's and men's clothing , accessories , wristwatches and perfumes have appeared under the same brand name .

Career

Miyake grew up in Hiroshima. He was seven years old when the atomic bomb was dropped on the city. He lost many family members in the attack and his mother died of radiation sickness three years later . He himself developed a bone marrow disease due to which he still limps today . It was this experience that ultimately drove him to fashion design - as something modern and optimistic.

Miyake studied graphic design at the Tama Art School in Tokyo . Even then, when it came to clothing, he focused on design, not fashion. In 1963 he presented his first designs. After graduating in 1964, he left Japan and from 1965 worked in Paris as a designer for the fashion designers Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy . There he was shaped by the experiences of the French '68 movement . In 1969 he moved to New York to work for the fashion designer Geoffrey Beene . In 1970 he founded the Miyake Design Studio in Tokyo. In 1971 the first collection of his fashion label appeared, which he presented in New York. In November of the same year the company was formed as Issey Miyake International Inc. (today only Issey Miyake Inc. ). The first men's collection was presented in 1978.

Miyake had a friendship with the Austro-British potter Dame Lucie Rie from a young age. In 1989 Miyake organized exhibitions for Rie in Japan. During his lifetime, she bequeathed her large, self-made ceramic button collection to him, which he integrated into his creations.

Fashion

Miyake's fashion is characterized by colorful silk fabrics and feather-light polyester materials, craftsmanship details, technical innovations in the areas of fabric development, processing and recycling , since the 1980s the use of folds of all kinds and unusual fabric shapes (e.g. made of only a single piece of fabric or clothing made up of many individual pieces of fabric). Miyake usually gives the buyer creative freedom when wearing his creations, for example if they can be draped on the body depending on their taste. Issey Miyake Mode is in the top price segment.

Perfume

In 1992, together with Beauté Prestige International, the women's fragrance L'Eau d'Issey (sounds similar to L'Odyssée 'The Odyssey ' in French ) was launched . The counterpart for men, L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme , followed in 1994. Since then, there have always been variations, seasonal variations and lighter summer versions of these two fragrances for both sexes (e.g. L'Eau d'Issey Eau d'Été , Souffle , Lumières , Lueur , Or Absolu , Noir Absolu , Homme Intense , Homme Sport , Oceanic Expedition , Polar Expedition , Homme Fraîche etc.), some of which differ from the original in terms of odor. Le Feu d'Issey (women) followed in 1998, and Soleil (women) in 2001 . In 2004 L'Eau Bleu (men) was presented, in 2009 A Scent by Issey Miyake (women) was added, 2012 Pleats Please (women), 2015 Nuit d'Issey (men), 2016 L'Eau d'Issey Pure (women) and 2017 the unisex fragrance L'Eau Majeure d'Issey . In 2008 the anti-aging products La Crème de l'Eau by Issey Miyake and Le Fluide de l'Eau by Issey Miyake expanded the cosmetics portfolio.

Designer

After Miyake retired from active business in 1997 and devoted himself to textile research, he left the various fashion collections offered under his name to designers, and now ultimately authorizes their designs. In 1999 Miyake's assistant Naoki Takizawa (* 1960) took over the post of chief designer. He was replaced in 2006 when he founded his own fashion label by Dai Fujiwara , who has been with the company since 1994. Takizawa was appointed Helmut Lang 's menswear designer in 2010 . House Issey Miyake announced in February 2011 that Fujiwara would leave his post in spring 2011 after five years. Long-time Miyake employee Yoshiyuki Miyamae has been appointed as the new women's fashion designer . A design team then took care of the men's fashion, Issey Miyake Men . In mid-2013 the designer Yūsuke Takahashi was entrusted with the designs for the men's collection.

Collections

Current collections

  • Issey Miyake - main collection for women (since 1971) and men (since 1978; fully developed in 1985), designed by Yoshiyuki Miyamae and a design team, presented in Paris since 1973 (the men's collection wasshownin Milan from 1998 to 2005)
  • Pleats Please Issey Miyake - polyester collection for women (since 1993) whose pieces are first cut and sewn and then pleated (normally one would pleat the fabric first and then cut) to create permanent, washboard-like rows of folds . Pleats Please is English and means 'pleats, please'.
  • Issey Miyake Fête - colorful sister collection of the main women's line (since 2004), whichadoptsthe technological innovations of Pleats Please ( Fête is French and means 'party' / 'celebration').
  • HaaT -women's collection with Indian influencesdesignedby Miyake's former fabric designer Makiko Mingawa (since 2000). Haat means 'village -' / 'marketplace' in Sanskrit, in English it sounds similar to heart 'heart' .
  • me Issey Miyake (or Cauliflower , cauliflower ' in the non-Asia) - women's collection with blouses and shirts in one size which is the size of the carrier by Stretch shares customize and folds in the material and in Japan in plastic tubes in the machines offered ( since 2001).
  • A-POC Inside - the company's experimental design collection (since 1997), developed by Issey Miyake and Dai Fujiwara. A piece of seamless, woven tubular fabric can be tailored to various items of clothing by the buyer. A-POC is an acronym for a piece of cloth , a piece of cloth ' and sounds like in English epoch , era' . The formerly independent collection ( A-POC ) was integrated as a basic concept into the main collection ( A-POC Inside ).
  • Homme Plissé Issey Miyake - pleated men's fashion in the style of Pleats Please (since 2013, only in Japan)
  • Bao Bao Issey Miyake - accessories collection, mainly handbags (e.g. Bilbao Bag )
  • 132 5. Issey Miyake - Miyake and his design team since 2010 in collaboration with computer science scientist Jun Mitani in the 21_21 DESIGN Sight Center presented a collection for women and men of flat folded pieces of fabric made of recycled, soft polyester, which, as soon as you put them lifts, similar to origami , to three-dimensional items of clothing such as dresses, trousers or skirts, 'unfold'. The name of the collectionsays it all: '1' stands for the one piece of fabric, '2' for the two-dimensional as long as the piece lies flat, '3' for the three-dimensionality after lifting and '5' for the numerous variants, the piece in the end to be worn on the body.
  • Issey Miyake Watches - watch collection for women and men
  • IN-EI Issey Miyake - collection of origami-like foldable lights (since 2013)
  • Issey Miyake Parfums - Scented water collection for women and men
  • Iittala X Issey Miyake Collection with 30 articles made of textiles, porcelain and glass.

Former collections

  • im product - licensed collection with clothing and accessories mainly for the Japanese market (1980s / 90s)
  • Plantation - Collection launched in 1981 with natural-organic designs (today a brand of the A-net group).
  • Issey Miyake Permanente - reissued, timeless classics from previous collections of the main line (from 1985).

Group

The company Issey Miyake Inc. is part of the established in 1996 A-net Inc. (annual sales 2010: 15 billion ¥ )

, to which, in addition to the Miyake Design Studio, other high-priced clothing brands mainly represented on the Japanese market, such as Tsumori Chisato , sunaokuwahara , ZUCCa , Ne-net , Final Home , Plantation and Mercibeaucoup, belong.

Boutiques

In Japan and the rest of Asia there are numerous Issey Miyake boutiques that carry either all or several or only individual collections of the brand. Otherwise there are Miyake shops in London , Antwerp (opened in 2015), Zurich , Milan , twice in New York , and three times in Paris. The Pleats Please Boutique, which opened in Toulouse in 2008 , has since closed. Issey Miyake runs a flagship store called ELTTOB TEP Issey Miyake (backwards for English PET BOTTLE ' PET bottle ' ) in Osaka , where all collections are offered in artfully decorated surroundings. In 2011 an ELTTOB TEP store was opened in Tokyo's Ginza . In New York City, the tribeca Issey Miyake flagship store also offers all collections. In 2009 the 24 Issey Miyake shop concept for Japanese department stores was presented, in which the goods are not displayed on the shelf but on a collection of vertical, narrow metal rods. In 2010, a 132 5. Issey Miyake women's boutique was inaugurated in Tokyo's Aoyama district , designed by Japanese architect Tokujin Yoshioka . In November 2013, the Issey Miyake Reality Lab, also designed by Yoshioka, opened its doors next door, offering the men's collections from 132 5. and Homme Plissé as well as the brands Bao Bao (bags) and In-Ei (lights).

Other activities

  • In 1994, Issey Miyake played herself in a small scene from the movie Rotwang muss weg! by Hans-Christoph Blumenberg .
  • 21-21 Design Sight (based on the English expression 20/20 vision for one hundred percent sight ) is a museum-like research center for design constructed by Tadao Ando , which opened in March 2007 in Roppongi , Tokyo. The center is led by Issey Miyake and four other Japanese designers (graphic designer Taku Satoh , industrial designer Nato Fukasawa and design journalist Noriko Kawakami ) and runs the Issey Miyake Foundation , which was established in Tokyo in 2004, exhibitions and events organized and published literature.
  • Issey Miyake designed a version of the Evian water bottle in 2010.

Awards

Publications

  • East Meets West , Heibonsha, Tokyo, 1978
  • Issey Miyake Bodyworks , Shogakukan Publishing, Tokyo, 1983
  • Issey Miyake: Making Things (with co-authors), Scalo Publishers, Zurich, 1999
  • Issey Miyake by Irving Penn , Bulfinch Press, New York City, 1999
  • and more

See also

literature

Web links

Commons : Issey Miyake  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Issey Miyake interview. In: The Daily Telegraph , September 27, 2010.
  2. ↑ Issey Miyake loses Creative Director ( Memento of the original from March 7, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , fabeau.de, February 22, 2011 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.fabeau.de
  3. ↑ Issey Miyake appoints new womenswear designer , textilwirtschaft.de, May 19, 2011
  4. ↑ Issey Miyake picks its next womenswear stylist from own team , fashionmag.com, May 19, 2011
  5. ↑ Issey Miyake launches his new concept 132 5 , fashionmag.com, September 15, 2010
  6. ↑ 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT Sprecial Exhibition: "Reality Lab" ( Memento of the original from September 20, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , 2121designsight.jp, accessed October 2, 2010  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.2121designsight.jp
  7. ↑ Origami Fashion ( Memento of the original from October 3, 2010 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was automatically inserted and not yet checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , British Vogue, September 29, 2010  @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.vogue.co.uk
  8. ^ Company Profile. In: A-net.com (English).
  9. ↑ A-Net Brands. In: TsumoriChisato.com (English); Brands. In: A-net.com (English).
  10. ↑ IMDB , accessed April 27, 2013
  11. ↑ Evian sources Issey Miyake for new limited edition bottle. In: Fashion Network , September 22, 2010.
personal data
SURNAME Miyake, Issey
ALTERNATIVE NAMES 三 宅 一生 (Japanese)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Japanese fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH April 1938
PLACE OF BIRTH Hiroshima