Krizia

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Krizia company logo (2011)

KRIZIA , bourgeois Mariuccia Mandelli (born January 31, 1925 in Bergamo ; † December 6, 2015 in Milan ), was an Italian fashion designer and is also the name of the fashion company she founded in 1954.

The pseudonym KRIZIA is derived from Plato's dialogue Kritias , in which the vanity of women is treated. With her creations, Mandelli made a significant contribution to the success of Italian prêt-à-porter fashion. In June 2014, Mandelli sold the Krizia company to a Chinese fashion company.

Life

Mariuccia Mandelli was a teacher before she and her friend Flora Dolci started designing functional dresses and tops in 1954. She gave up her teaching job in favor of a studio in Milan. In 1957 she presented a collection for the first time at the International Samia Clothing Fair of the Salone mercato internazionale dell'abbigliamento in Turin . She became known to a wider public in 1964 when she received the Critica della Moda fashion award for the presentation of a collection at the Palazzo Pitti in Florence . In the early 1960s she experimented with elements of Op Art , in 1967 she designed a knitwear collection with Kriziamaglia (now discontinued) . The collections were presented at Pitti Immagine . In 1969, the Kriziababy children's collection was introduced (now discontinued). Since the late 1960s, every collection has received an animal as a lucky charm that can be found on clothing. The resulting "zoo" is now Krizia's trademark. In 1970 she was the first fashion designer to put hot pants on the catwalk at Milan fashion shows , for which she received the Tiberio d'Oro the following year , and in 1978 she attracted attention with pleated raincoats. Starting in 1980, Krizia launched numerous perfumes for men and women, including K de Krizia (women, 1981), Krizia Uomo (men, 1984), Spazio Krizia (men 1993, women 1998) and Krizia Istinto (men 2005, women 2006) . In 1985, Mandelli and her company moved into a former Milanese theater known as Spazio Krizia since 1991 , where various cultural events are still held today. In 1986 she was named Commendatore della Repubblica Italia . Since 1991 she has also led a men's collection with Krizia Uomo . Numerous secondary lines have been established over the years and international licenses have been granted. As part of the Triennale Milan 1995, her work was shown in the retrospective exhibition Krizia. Una storia shown.

Since the 1990s there has been speculation about the sale of the Krizia house, for example to the Japanese licensee Sanyo. Between 1995 and 1997 the Italian Giambattista Valli (later a designer at Ungaro ) worked for Krizia. In 2000, Krizia hired Alber Elbaz as a designer for just three months before he was replaced by Jean-Paul Knott. Knott left the company after just two seasons and later worked for Cerruti . The Briton Hamish Morrow followed Knott by 2004. Subsequently, the collections were again designed by Mandelli and her in-house design team. In 2012 a total turnover including all licenses of 10 million euros was achieved. At the end of September 2013, Mandelli appeared for the last time on the catwalk at the end of one of her fashion shows for the Spring / Summer 2014 collection. With the sale of Krizia to the Chinese fashion retailer Zhu Chongyun and her company Shenzhen Marisfrolg Fashion Co. Ltd. For around 28 million euros in June 2014, Chongyun took over the creative management of the Krizia brand himself. Under Chongyun, the expansion of Krizia's activities on the Chinese market is planned.

The company operates flagship stores in Milan, Rome, Paris and London.

Collections

  • KRIZIA - women's collection and catwalk line for the Milan Fashion Weeks
  • KRIZIATOP - an elegant women's collection originally intended for the American market from 2000
  • KRIZIAUOMO - men's collection
  • KRIZIAUOMOSPORTSWEAR - sportswear collection for men licensed to Facib di Cortesi (discontinued)
  • KRIZIASPORT - sporty collection for men (discontinued)
  • KRIZIAPOI - second line for women since the mid-1980s
  • POIBYKRIZIA - cheaper version of the Poi line for women
  • KRIZIAJEANS - denim -based license collection by SINV for women until 2009
  • PERTE by KRIZIA and AKTIVE PERTE by KRIZIA - licensed collection by Miroglio for plump women
  • EVEX by KRIZIA - youthful women's collection for the Japanese market with license to Sanyo Shokai
  • K of KRIZIA - women's collection for the Japanese market licensed to Sanyo Shokai
  • K of K - lower-priced women's collection for the Japanese market licensed to Sanyo Shokai
  • BASIC by KRIZIA or b. by KRIZIA - licensed leisure collection for women for the Asian and Chinese market
  • KRIZIAKIDS - children's collection licensed to Gi.mel di Putignano (discontinued)

literature

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Krizia founder Mariuccia Mandelli has died
  2. ^ Krizia: Jean-Paul Knott follows Alber Elbaz , textilwirtschaft.de, December 1, 2000
  3. ↑ Krizia: Entirely in Chinese hands ( Memento of the original from May 18, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , textilwirtschaft.de, July 18, 2014 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.textilwirtschaft.de
  4. ↑ Chinese designer Zhu Chongyun talks about plans for Krizia fashion label , scmp.com, April 10, 2015
personal data
SURNAME Krizia
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Mandelli, Mariuccia (real name)
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH January 31, 1925
PLACE OF BIRTH Bergamo
DATE OF DEATH December 6, 2015
Place of death Milan