Cerruti

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Cerruti

logo
legal form SAS
founding 1967
Seat Paris FranceFranceFrance 
management Richard Cohen, CEO (since late 2014)
sales 140 million euros (2009)
Branch Clothing , accessories , luxury goods
Website www.cerruti.com

Cerruti 1881 SAS is a Paris- based fashion company founded in 1967 by the Italian fashion designer Nino Cerruti .

The house of Cerruti designs, produces and sells - partly under license - among other things high-priced ready-to- wear fashion as well as accessories , perfumes , leather goods , watches and writing implements in the luxury goods segment. Since 2001 the brand has been run without Nino Cerruti. From 2010, the company belonged to the Chinese retail group Trinity Ltd., which gave up the Cerruti women's fashion division in 2011 and sold Cerruti to the Chinese textile group Shandong Ruyi at the end of 2017.

founding

In 1967, Nino Cerruti founded the company Cerruti in 1881 Maison de Couture , presented his first men's collection and opened his first boutique on Place de la Madeleine in Paris . In 1950 he inherited the fabric manufacturer founded by his grandfather and his brothers in Biella in 1881, ventured into fashion design for the first time in Italy at the end of the 1950s and finally moved to Paris. A women's collection followed in 1968. From then on, Cerruti called his fashion brand Cerruti 1881 . Cerruti was known for its classic style, luxurious materials, noble business fashion for men and delicate women’s fashion. The store on Place de la Madeleine was the company's flagship store until it closed in September 2016 .

Cerruti 1881

From 1964 to 1970, Giorgio Armani , who was to found his own fashion brand in 1974, worked as a designer for Cerruti. In 1970, Nino Cerruti sent female and male models down the same catwalk in Paris to present his women's and men's collections at the same time. The Cerruti company grew steadily: the product lines were expanded, the portfolio was broadened, and international expansion followed. The first perfume, the men's fragrance Nino Cerruti (discontinued), was presented in 1978. The first women's fragrance , Nino Cerruti pour femme (discontinued), followed in 1987. The perfume classics of the house still available today are the fragrances Cerruti 1881 (1990) and Cerruti 1881 pour femme (1995), of which numerous variations appeared in the following years. In addition to the main line Cerruti 1881 , the sporty brand Cerruti 1881 Sport was launched in 1980 (discontinued in 2002), in 1986 the youthful second line for men Cerruti Brothers was added (discontinued in 2000), and in 1995 the women's second collection Cerruti Club (discontinued in 2000). From the mid-1990s, Cerruti brought on board other designers for women's fashion such as the Americans Narciso Rodriguez (1996–1997) and Peter Spelopoulos (1997–2002) and presented the newly launched Cerruti Arte Couture collection (discontinued in 2002). From 1988 to 2001 the women's fashion manufacturer Kemper from Krefeld , a former Escada subsidiary, produced under license the Cerruti women's fashion created by Nino Cerruti in Paris; the main men's collection was created in-house by Cerruti's Italian men's fashion manufacturer Hitman. Kemper also maintained the six German Cerruti boutiques (in Berlin, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Cologne, Frankfurt, Munich), which were converted into Louis Féraud boutiques in 2001 after the license was lost. Since then there have been no more Cerruti boutiques in Germany.

New owners

Fin.Part

In October 2000, Nino Cerruti sold 51% of his company to the Italian investor group Fin.Part (fashion group with the brands Frette , Maska and Moncler ), which Nino Cerruti drove out of the company less than a year later. As part of a repositioning, Fin.Part subdivided the Cerruti brand into the brands Cerruti (main line), Cerruti 1881 (second line) and Cerruti Jeans (sportswear) after a brief attempt to get all collections in different colors (gray for the main line , cobalt blue for the second line and orange for sportswear) together under the brand Cerruti 1881 . The main line generated 10% of sales (total sales 2001: 107 million euros plus 169 million euros from license income), the second line 60%, and 30% was achieved with sportswear. In 2004 the licenses for the subsidiary lines were given to the Italian manufacturer Tombolini for one year; the main line for women has been put on hold. The designers for the house Cerruti changed several times in the following years until Fin.Part finally went bankrupt in 2005 . In the same year 1992, as NC 1881 jeans launched and (Pepper) Industries SpA sportswear collection produced under license Cerruti Jeans in 18CRR81 renamed. The license for the perfume division of the house of Cerruti was sold by Unilever to Coty USA in 2005 .

MatlinPatterson

The American private equity firm MatlinPatterson bought the Cerruti brand in 2006, appointed Philippe Cleach as CEO and appointed Nicolas Andreas Taralis, a former designer for Dior and Yves Saint Laurent , for the revitalized women's collection. The Cerruti 1881 second line was again manufactured in-house and not granted as a license. The Hitman brand, founded by Nino Cerruti, was shut down and finally sold in 2008. In 2007, Coty launched the men's fragrance Cerruti pour homme and in 2009 L'Essence de Cerruti (men). The Belgian fashion designer Jean-Paul Knott, who had given the name Cerruti prestige again after Taralis' departure in 2007, left the company in 2009. Since then, the chief designer for the women's collection has been the Briton Richard Nicoll. From February 2007, the Swede Jesper Börjesson designed the main men's collection.

In 2008, MatlinPatterson appointed former LVMH manager Florent Perrichon as CEO. At the beginning of 2009, Cerruti granted the license for the production and European sales of the Cerruti 1881 men's collection, which had previously been manufactured in-house, to the Ingolstadt textile company Bäumler. After Bäumler's bankruptcy at the end of 2009, the license was returned to Cerruti and reassigned to the Italian Forall Group. The Egyptian Al Arafa Group, which owns a 35% ownership share in Forall, was supposed to produce men's suits for Cerruti in 1881 . Cerruti's turnover in 2009 was 140 million euros.

Matlin Patterson, the then owner of Cerruti and also owner of the men's fashion brand Pal Zileri , announced in early 2010 that the Cerruti 1881 brand would be licensed as a women's line and the men's division of the second line would be abandoned. In mid-2010, Jesper Borjesson was replaced as men's fashion designer by the British designer duo Sachiko Okada and Aaron Sharif, called Blaak , after the two had been recommended by the company's new design consultant, Zoran Bosanac. Okada and Sharif left Cerruti in 2012. The flagship store on Place de la Madeleine, which opened at the end of July 2010 after renovations, was closed in September 2016. In December 2016, a temporary 370 m² Cerruti 1881 pop-up store was opened on Boulevard Haussmann in Paris, not far from Galeries Lafayette , until a new Parisian flagship boutique is to be inaugurated in summer 2017.

Li & Fung

Cerruti Boutique in Hong Kong

At the end of 2010, Matlin Patterson sold the company Cerruti for almost 53 million euros to the Chinese men's fashion chain Trinity Limited based in Hong Kong , a long-term Cerruti licensee in China and a subsidiary of the Chinese trading company Li & Fung . The latter has owned the Sonia Rykiel brand since 2012 . In mid-2010, Trinity Limited had 94 licensed Cerruti 1881 boutiques in China ; In 2017 there were 116 stores in China, Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau. Under the new owners, Cerruti announced in early 2011 that the entire women's fashion division of the house would be closed and that it would concentrate on men's fashion. The last women's fashion collection of the Cerruti main line was presented by Richard Nicoll in March 2011. Trinity Limited announced that they want to expand the Cerruti brand in the People's Republic .

Cerruti today

Until 2011, Cerruti offered three separate fashion lines, each for women and men: Cerruti (high-priced designer line, formerly Cerruti Arte ), Cerruti 1881 (high-end second line, formerly Cerruti Brothers or Cerruti Club ) and 18CRR81 (medium-priced sportswear, since 1992 Manufactured under license by Industries SpA , which was part of the Moncler Group until 2013 , formerly Cerruti Jeans or NC 1881 Jeans ). After difficulties with the licensees, the Cerruti 1881 second line in Europe was temporarily suspended in 2010. In the Asian market, Cerruti continued to exist in 1881 as a licensed brand, e.g. from Trinity. With the autumn-winter 2011/12 collection, the women's fashion of the main collection and the second line was discontinued. However, the licensee Industries SpA continued to run the sportswear brand 18CRR81 with both women's and men's clothing until 2017 .

In 2012, Trinity Limited divided the Cerruti portfolio into three collections:

  • Cerruti 1881 Paris (high-priced designer line for men's fashion and accessories; presented at the Paris fashion shows ; merged with Cerruti 1881 in 2017 )
  • Cerruti 1881 (upscale second line for men's business fashion and accessories; main line of the house since 2017)
  • 18CRR81 (medium-priced sportswear for younger women and men; licensed to Industries (Sportswear Company) SpA since 1992 ; own stores in Europe, North Africa and the Middle East; discontinued in 2017)

In late 2011, former LVMH manager Catherine Vautrin was appointed CEO of Cerruti. Vautrin was replaced by Trinity CEO Richard Cohen in late 2014. In April 2012, the former Zegna and Valentino designer Aldo Maria Camillo was appointed creative director of men's fashion at Cerruti in June 2012. Camillo left the company in March 2015. He was followed in October 2015 by the American Jason Basmajian, who had been chief designer at Gieves & Hawkes , another Trinity Limited fashion brand, since February 2013 .

With the spring / summer 2017 season, Cerruti ended the 18CRR81 license, integrated this sportswear collection into the company's main line and gave up the exclusive top line Cerruti 1881 Paris , so that since then with Cerruti 1881 there has only been a collection for men that has the Paris Fashion Week is demonstrated on the catwalk. There is a small collection of handbags and leather accessories for women.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Dominique Chapuis: La marque de prêt-à-porter masculin Cerruti cherche à se relancer. In: lesechos.fr. November 12, 2016 (French).;
  2. ↑ Cerruti stores open in Berlin and Hamburg. (No longer available online.) In: textilwirtschaft.de. March 23, 1999 formerly in the original .  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives ) ;;@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de
  3. ↑ Günther Depas: Cerruti now fully in the hands of Finpart. In: textilwirtschaft.de. June 21, 2006, archived from the original on March 11, 2016 .;
  4. ↑ Kirsten Reinhold: Cerruti starts realignment. In: textilwirtschaft.de. July 4, 2002 (fee required).;
  5. ↑ New appearance in the old tradition. (No longer available online.) In: textilwirtschaft.de. July 22, 2002 ;formerly in the original .  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives );@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.textilwirtschaft.de
  6. ↑ Günther Depas: Finpart bankrupt. In: textilwirtschaft.de. October 25, 2005 (fee required).;
  7. ^ Günther Depas: Cerruti goes to the Matlin Patterson Fund. In: textilwirtschaft.de. August 2, 2006 (fee required). ;-08
  8. ↑ Katya Foreman: Cerruti to Bring Back Women's Wear. Knott to show collection in March. In: wwd.com. October 13, 2008 (English).;
  9. ^ New Cerruti Head to Revive Women's Line. (No longer available online.) In: wwd.com. October 13, 2008, p. 17; formerly in the original (English).  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives );@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.wwd.com
  10. ↑ Jesper Börjesson, the man of Cerruti. (No longer available online.) Commerce International, September 3, 2010, archived from the original on September 11, 2010 . ; Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.actu-cci.com
  11. ↑ Important visit to Bäumler. (Series of images) In: textilwirtschaft.de. July 24, 2009 .;
  12. ↑ Final end for fashion manufacturer Bäumler. In: br-online.de. October 6, 2009, archived from the original on October 8, 2009 .;
  13. ^ Al Arafa for Investment & Consultancies further expands into Europe through Forall Group's 'Cerruti 1881' license. (PDF; 40 kB) (No longer available online.) Al Arafa Group, November 1, 2009 formerly in the original (English).  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives ) ;;@1@ 2Template: Dead Link / www.arafaholding.com
  14. ↑ Bea Gottschlich: Cerruti: New start in Northern Europe. In: textilwirtschaft.de. June 17, 2010, p. 34 , archived from the original on March 30, 2016 (English). ;
  15. ↑ Bea Gottschlich: Cerruti hires style consultants for his menswear. In: textilwirtschaft.de. October 13, 2010 (fee required).;
  16. ^ Cerruti 1881 va ouvrir une boutique temporaire à Paris. In: ladepeche.fr. November 24, 2016 (French).;
  17. ↑ Trinity Aquire's Paris fashion house Cerruti. (PDF; 172 kB) In: trinity-limited.com. December 22, 2010, archived from the original on February 1, 2014 .;
  18. ↑ Chinese trading company buys fashion company Cerruti. Neue Zürcher Zeitung, December 22, 2010 . ;
  19. ↑ Fiona Bartholomew: Li & Fung daughter takes over Cerruti. In: textilwirtschaft.de. December 22, 2010 (chargeable).;
  20. ^ Trinity - Our brands. In: trinity-limited.com. July 31, 2010, archived from the original on November 4, 2011 .;
  21. ↑ Bea Gottschlich: Cerruti: No more womenswear. In: textilwirtschaft.de. January 25, 2011 (fee required).;
  22. ^ Cerruti to close women's business. In: wwd.com. January 21, 2011, archived from the original on February 10, 2013 .;
  23. ↑ Moncler Group Brands: 18CRR81. In: monclergroup.com. Archived from the original on November 29, 2011 .;
  24. ↑ Anja Probe: 18CRR81 - the other Cerruti. In: textilwirtschaft.de. June 16, 2008, archived from the original on March 12, 2016 . ;
  25. ↑ Doreen Wilken: Cerruti gives up womenswear. In: fabeau.de. January 25, 2011, archived from the original on February 2, 2011 .;
  26. ^ Marc Sondermann: Cerruti: Catherine Vautrin becomes CEO. In: textilwirtschaft.de. October 4, 2011 (chargeable).;
  27. ↑ Lauren Millligan: Cerruti's New Man. Vogue, April 25, 2012 (English).;
  28. ↑ Dominique Muret / Laura Galbiati: Cerruti 1881 rivede la sua offerta e progetta un nuovo flagship a Parigi. In: it.fashionnetwork.com. October 17, 2016 (Italian).;