Men's skirt
Men's skirts are skirts worn by men . The men's skirt is not to be confused with the men's skirt .
term
In the past, “skirt” was also understood to mean a jacket in relation to the male wardrobe . This is because the Old High German "roc" referred to a piece of clothing that hung down from the shoulders to roughly the knees or even beyond. In the 19th century the term “ frock coat ” was also used in this sense. In today's German, the term “skirt” refers to a piece of clothing “that covers the body from the waist down (in different lengths)” or, as a specialist term in tailoring, “the lower part of a dress from the waist down”.
Many men's skirts such as kilts or sarongs are now also worn by women. In addition, fashion labels also offer dresses and skirts for men and women ( unisex ). In the course of this increasing dissolution of gender barriers in fashion, the concept of men's rock has changed.
history
Europe
In winter the Celts wore cloaks, skirts and leg ties made of leather and furs. For clothing of medieval knights included a tunic, a tunic and in the winter a padded petticoat.
Through new weaving techniques and the development of the tailoring trade, the people of the Renaissance became very fashion conscious. At times the men's skirts had to be worked particularly wide for a case with many folds. Then again, fashion required them to be worn tightly. In addition, the men's skirts became shorter and shorter and showed the pants underneath. The harem pants and army drums later increasingly replaced the skirt.
The last men's skirts disappeared in the baroque era . As a result of the French Revolution , the Jacobin sans-culottes became the forerunners of long men's trousers. From now on, skirt and trousers finally separated the sexes.
Outside of Europe
Skirts were already worn in prehistoric times. The Sumerians in Mesopotamia already carried in the 3rd millennium BC The Kaunakes - a villi skirt made of furs or parts of fur with a belt. The Babylonians and Assyrians (2105–539 BC) sometimes wore aprons under sewn tunics.
The Japanese Hakama is a men's culottes. Today you can see him mainly in sport at kendo . As a school hakama without a gusset, he was worked as a skirt. The sometimes trouser-like dhoti is worn in India, Nepal and Bangladesh. In India and Sri Lanka, especially in the south, the lungi is often worn in public life . In Bhutan there is the Gho for men , which is worn with a fabric belt (kera). The male public service workers must appear in it for work. In Myanmar is longyi common. The sarong comes from Indonesia and is often offered in the West in brightly printed colors or in a batik look as a beach skirt for women. Lava-lava is widespread in many island states in the Pacific ( Micronesia , Tonga , Vanuatu and others) . In Samoa , a blue lava-lava in combination with a white service shirt is part of the police uniform.
In East Africa there is the kikoi for men and the skirts of the Cricket Maasai . In Somalia and neighboring Muslim areas there is also the sarong as in Indonesia . The sarong came to this part of the world from East Asia through merchant shipping. That is why it is also worn in Yemen and Oman . There he is called Futah. In the Horn of Africa, men's sarong is either white or colored as Macawiis.
The men's skirt in the 20th / 21st century
Since the second half of the 20th century, men have increasingly rediscovered rock. In the 1960s, with the hippies and the 1968 movement, a counter-cultural youth movement began , which, with the women's movement, led to more equality between the sexes. She pushed through pants for women and a climate developed that made it possible to talk about skirts for men in the 1970s. At visual kei , the predominantly young fans very often wear a skirt or dress; sometimes simply as an expression of your personal style, but also as a costume for cosplay . Men’s skirts are also worn in parts of the black scene .
In 2012, the University of Oxford relaxed its dress code so that in future men can wear skirts and tights and women can wear suits and ties for exams or formal occasions.
In fashion
Fashion discovered the men's skirt in the 80s. After Vivienne Westwood in particular attracted attention with androgynous collections, the French fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier created the first skirt for a men's collection in 1984. In the USA, Marc Jacobs became the leading exponent of men's rock. Since then, more and more renowned designers have presented new designs, such as a. Giorgio Armani , John Galliano , Kenzo , Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto . Especially at the Milan Men's Fashion Weeks and the New York Fashion Shows you can often see men's skirts. Some fashion labels have focused exclusively on rock design as authentic men's clothing. The traditional Scottish kilt is now also available in modern versions.
Uniform
In 2015, the Hannoversche Verkehrsbetriebe ( üstra ) started a one-year advertising campaign in which ten selected male drivers were able to wear a skirt with their uniforms on a voluntary basis. The aim was to interest women in the job of bus driver. The Welde brewery from Plankstadt in Baden provides male employees with a kilt as work clothing in summer.
Culture and art
In ballet and other dance productions, skirts are also worn by dancers if it serves the goals of the choreography, represents an aesthetic gain or improves artistic expression.
In September 1997, Argentine visual artist Gustavo del Rio first exhibited a men's mini skirt created in 1967. He presented his work of art to the public for the first time during his body art performance “La obra soy yo (I am the work of art)” in the hall of the Torcuato di Tella Institute ( Buenos Aires ). This happened during the "Week of Avant-Garde Art in Argentina (Semana del Arte Avanzado en Argentina)".
In 2003 the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York showed the exhibition “Bravehearts - Men in Skirts”. It was sponsored by Jean Paul Gaultier . Using examples from hippies , pop stars and fashion designers, she showed how a future has opened up for rock as men's clothing.
Men's rock movement
Since the 1990s , a growing men's rock movement has emerged that is very diverse and heterogeneous and is primarily organized in Internet forums or round tables. The goal of the men's rock movement is to make the skirt, next to the trousers, universal clothing for all people, regardless of their gender. Some male skirt wearers refuse to have to mark themselves sexually. As “gender benders”, they soften the boundaries between the sexes. They are also supported by women.
See also
literature
- Wiebke Koch-Mertens: Man and his clothes. Volume 1: The cultural history of fashion up to 1900. Artemis & Winkler, Düsseldorf / Zurich 2000, ISBN 978-3-538-07103-2 .
- Wiebke Koch-Mertens: Man and his clothes. Volume 2: The cultural history of fashion in the 20th century. Artemis & Winkler, Düsseldorf / Zurich 2000, ISBN 3-538-07104-7 .
- Robert Ross: Clothing: A Global History . Polity, Cambridge 2008, ISBN 978-0-7456-3186-8 ( preview in Google Book Search).
Web links
- They don't rock Men are allowed to wear anything - except skirts. As one of the few fashion revolutions, the self-confident man with a skirt is a long time coming. Why? ( the daily newspaper of September 26, 2009)
- Why do men not wear skirts - Michela Seggiani, University of Basel
Individual evidence
- ↑ The Duden online
- ↑ Newsweek, why-men-are-claiming-back-skirt [1]
- ^ Zeit Online Tillmann Prüfer, fashion is redistributing roles
- ↑ Wiebke Koch-Mertens: Man and his clothes - The cultural history of fashion up to 1900. Artemis & Winkler, Düsseldorf / Zurich 2000, pp. 139–152.
- ↑ Wiebke Koch-Mertens: Man and his clothes - The cultural history of fashion up to 1900. Artemis & Winkler, Düsseldorf / Zurich 2000, pp. 183–289.
- ↑ Wiebke Koch-Mertens: Man and his clothes - The cultural history of fashion up to 1900. Artemis & Winkler, Düsseldorf / Zurich 2000, p. 26.
- ↑ Manfred Garner: "Bhutan - Culture and Religion in the Land of the Dragon Kings." Indo-Culture publishing house, Stuttgart 1985.
- ^ Julia Rosenberger: Asia: Sarong. ( Memento from July 31, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) In: In Asia. No. 4, 2009
- ↑ Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon. 7th edition, Volume 2, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997
- ↑ Wiebke Koch-Mertens: Man and his clothes - The cultural history of fashion in the 20th century. Artemis & Winkler, Düsseldorf / Zurich 2000, pp. 193–197.
- ↑ Aileen Ribeiro: "Dress and Morality." Berg Publishers 2003, p. 169
- ↑ Oxford University changes dress code to meet needs of transgender students , Guardian , July 29, 2012
- ^ Marnie Fogg: The Fashion Design Directory. Thames & Hudson, London 2011, p. 316.
- ^ Marnie Fogg: The Fashion Design Directory. Thames & Hudson, London 2011, p. 165.
- ↑ Anna-Lena Roth: Hanover: Bus drivers wear skirts - to get women excited about the job. In: spiegel.de. August 26, 2015, accessed July 14, 2017 .
- ↑ Welde Brewery turns men's skirt into uniform, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLqCF4dQdls
- ↑ Dance magazine, October 2000 - "Dress for Success - skirts for men common in dance productions" http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1083/is_10_74/ai_65862860
- ↑ Prima parte dell'articolo su La Obra Soy Yo Primera Plana , October 1967
- ↑ Andrew Bolton, "Bravehearts - Men in Skirts, Harry N. Abrams, 2003
- ↑ "Men's skirts sew success". BBC News. June 27, 2003, accessed May 12, 2010.
- ^ Escaping the tyranny of trousers US News & World Report. May 5, 2003. Archived from the original on March 17, 2007. Retrieved May 18, 2007.
- ↑ http://www.newsweek.com/why-men-are-claiming-back-skirt-628539
