pullover
Sweater [ pʊˈloːvɐ ] (from the English pull over for (the) overcoat , also called sweater for short ) is the name for a frequently knitted piece of clothing for the upper body with long sleeves , which usually has to be pulled over the head . Another name for this is jumper .
Conceptual
The word comes from English and means overcoat ( to pull = to pull, over = over). The term sweater entered the German vocabulary only around 1817 .
Since around 1950 the word sweater , which was originally used to describe a sweater , has been used almost synonymously. Today in everyday parlance mostly only knitted sweaters are referred to as sweaters. Similar to pullovers, made of finely knitted sweatshirt material are called sweatshirts . Brightly patterned sweaters are usually called jacquard sweaters after Joseph-Marie Jacquard .
history
While the sweater was long considered incompatible with fashionable and serious clothing, it gradually established itself over the course of the 20th century . This process is coupled with the "socialization" of sport on the one hand and with reform movements on the other. The twinset was able to establish itself in women's clothing as early as the 1930s .
The term Schwubber was introduced in Germany during the Third Reich .
In the 1950s, existentialists celebrated a minimalist fashion in which the turtleneck became a trademark of this scene, especially in black. It became a classic, especially in intellectual circles. In its light form, it has acquired a serious image since the late 1960s and can be worn under a jacket without a tie and is still considered "socially wearable", especially in the academic environment, in the business sector it is still today not established.
In the context of the ecology and alternative movement , coarse, self-knitted sweaters made from natural materials were popular from the 1970s to the 1980s. You should deliberately not appear serious and established. Norwegian sweaters in particular have this eco image to this day.
The poppers, on the other hand, wore fine and smooth knitted sweaters made of high-quality materials (e.g. cashmere wool) from well-known brands such as Lacoste .
In the 1980s, the related sweatshirt began to gain acceptance, also as part of a complete jogging suit .
In the 1990s, the techno movement discovered the ski sweaters of the 1960s and 1970s as part of clubwear. Second-hand shops became popular places to go where original goods could be purchased. The sweaters have also been copied or recreated as retro models by the fashion industry.
In the streetwear sector, on the other hand, sweatshirts have dominated and still dominate the scene from the 1980s to the present day, but they cannot be assigned to knitted pullovers, especially with hoods. This applies to the hip-hop and skater scenes as well as hooligans and autonomous people .
In today's adolescents and young adults are sweatshirts total of often more popular than knitting sweaters. Sweatshirts have become basic components of contemporary fashion (basics). In the course of further developments in the fashion sector, the formerly classic word "pullover" now also describes items of clothing that not only have traditional features (e.g. long sleeves). In the course of a liberalization of the definition, cardigans or polo shirts with long sleeves are also called pullovers, but this is technically incorrect. Accordingly, the traditional notion of "pulling over your head" as a mandatory reference point for determination is no longer up-to-date.
Due to their flat surface, thin pullovers / sweatshirts are suitable for printing, so they are available as fan relics and with various motifs and slogans. Some of the lettering or motifs are also embroidered or sewn on. Brand-oriented people of the younger and middle generation like to wear sweatshirts with bold brand logos . Sweatshirts are also available with attached hoods ( hoodies ). Sweatshirts have a sportier image.
The knitted sweaters of some manufacturers such as Carlo Colucci , MÄRZ, Coogi and Tundra are considered cult objects in certain circles . Some of the strikingly patterned sweaters are also collected and are considered prestige objects . The fixation on branded clothing is discussed differently between and within youth cultures .
species
Sweaters are made from many textile fibers, such as B. Virgin wool , cashmere wool , silk and cotton . Additions of synthetic fibers such as polyacrylic are widely used to improve dimensional stability.
Nowadays, some sweaters are made of wind- and water-impermeable materials with integrated membranes and are even worn over the entire outer clothing. This includes:
- Ski sweater
- Jogging sweater
- Sailing sweater
- Troyer
template
A wide variety of colors and patterns are also possible. The famous Norwegian pattern and the Aran pattern should be mentioned here. The former comes from the north, but not from Norway. Iceland , the Faroe Islands, and the Shetland Islands are home to this multi-colored and multi-threaded knitting pattern . Due to its origin, this garment is called "Den Danske Pulover" in dialect , somewhat misleading (in this slightly different spelling). Like the Aran pattern, which comes from the Irish Aran Islands and Ireland itself and which is characterized by the plastic-looking braids, knobs and rhombuses, these served not only to identify the origin ( clan , family ) but also, above all, to protect against the weather thanks to the additional threads the impermeability to wind. Even today, self-knitted sweaters are very popular as gifts.
to form
Just as different as the patterns are the necklines, collars, cutouts and sleeve lengths .
The most common are the V-neckline (including, depending on the style of clothing, T-shirt , polo shirt , shirt or shirt with tie), the round neckline and the half-high neckline, English: "Mockneck". There is also the boat neckline and the turtleneck . Short-sleeved sweaters are a special form. Sweaters with zippers, on the other hand, usually do not have a collar.
Trivia
In earlier times the wife knitted her own hair into the sailor or fisherman as a lucky charm. In Ireland and Guernsey, the sweaters were also given the initials of the men so that they could be more easily identified in a shipwreck when they were washed ashore. The fact that the family-typical patterns in the Hebrides and the Aran Islands served the same purpose is a modern myth and probably goes back to the play Riders to the Sea by John Millington Synge .
See also
Web links
- About the Aran stricken-aktuell.de
Individual evidence
- ^ Walter Kempowski: Blameworthy & Wolff. 9th edition, Goldmann Verlag , Munich 1988, page 125
- ↑ Sweater with short sleeves
- ↑ Hobbiefrau.de
- ↑ Ireland.com: Ireland's fashion secret: the Aran sweater