Gyula Komarnicki

Gyula Komarnicki (pronounced [ɟulɒ komɒrnitski]; * February 22, 1885 in Budapest ; † August 27, 1975 there ) was a Hungarian mountaineer of Polish descent. He recorded many first ascents in the High Tatras .

Gyula Komarnicki (around 1965)

Life

His father was an engineer and came from Warsaw. Because of his Hungarian origins, he had to leave Poland and, after a short stay in Paris, went to Budapest, where Guyla and two years later his brother Roman Komarnicki were born. After his father's death, he grew up in Hungary and Poland. Gyula studied law at the University of Budapest. During his studies, at the insistence of a friend, he started climbing and by 1906 he was already an important Tatra mountaineer. His climbing partners included his brother Roman, Janusz Chmielowski, Roman Kordys , Mariusz Zaruski and Mieczysław Świerz . He published books on the High Tatras in Hungarian and German. As a lawyer he was managing director of the Hungarian State Railways (1928–1934) and general director of the Hungarian Society for Maritime Navigation (1934–1944).

Komarnicki was the first president of the Budapest Academic Tourism Association, which at that time was the only Hungarian mountain organization. He was also an honorary member of the Polish Tatra Association and the Carpathian Association. From 1907 he was the author of magazine articles in "Turistik und Alpinismus" (he was one of the co-founders), in "Zeitschrift der Tatra-Gesellschaft" and in "Bergsteiger" . He evaluated and described tours. His most important works include a guide for mountaineers, which has been published several times in Hungarian (A Magas Tatra hegymászókalauza, Budapest 1914, 1917, 1926) and in German (The High Tatras, high mountain guide).

successes

• first crossing of the north-east side of the Mnich (1908)
• North face Javorový štít (1908, with Alfred Martin)
• the north-west face of Zadný Gerlach (1909, together with his brother),
• hrebeň Ľadových veží (1909, together with his brother),
• the north-east side of the Zlobivá (1911),
• the north face of Malý Javorový štít (1911, together with his brother),
• South wall Batizovský štít (1912, with his brother and Zoltan Votiskym)
• South face of Mięguszowiecki Szczyt Pośredni
• The north face of the Hrubý vrch,
• the east side of the Lomnický štít ,
• South face Prostredný hrot,
• The north face of Malý Kežmarský štít (1912, the largest wall in the Tatras)
• First ascent of Zadný Gerlach in winter (1913, with Gyula Hefty)
• First ascent of the Žltá veža and the Malý hrot (1914, with Ernő Katai)

literature

• Zofia Radwańska-Paryska, Witold Henryk Paryski: Wielka encyklopedia tatrzańska . Poronin: Wydawnictwo Górskie, 2004. ISBN 83-7104-009-1 .
• Bolesław Chwaściński: Z dziejów taternictwa. O górach i ludziach . Warszawa: Sport i Turystyka, 1988, pp. 121-123, 144-147, 153, 159. ISBN 83-217-2463-9 .
• Anton Klipp: The High Tatras and the Carpathian Association , Karpatendeutsches Kulturwerk Verlag, Slovakia, 2006, ISBN 3-927020-12-5 .

Web links

• Personal folder on Gyula Komarnicki (PDF) in the Historical Alpine Archives of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)

Individual evidence

1. ^ Budapest, Publishing House Turistik und Alpinismus, 1918
2. ↑ several chapters