Jubilee ridge
The jubilee ridge or Jubiläumsweg (short: "Jubi", "Jubigrat" or "Jubelgrat") is the name of the route over the connecting ridge between the Zugspitze ( 2962 m ) and the Hochblassen ( 2706 m ) (therefore also called the "Blassenkamm"), before its north-west break, you usually cross over to the “Falschen Grießkarscharte” to the Alpspitze ( 2628 m ) or descend via the Mathaisenkar. In the ridge course, the three Höllentalspitzen ( 2740 m ), the Vollkarspitze ( 2618 m ) and several ridge swings are crossed or bypassed. The route is a high alpine tour and not, as is often shown, a via ferrata .
history
The name goes back to the founding members of the DAV - Section Munich , who in return for the honors for the 25th anniversary of the section in 1894 donated 900 Marks, with which a "Jubilee Path" should be financed. Up until the First World War , additional foundations and interest raised an amount of 9,400 marks, which among other things went towards the construction of the guide over the ridge, also known as the Höllentalgrat. However, the project was not without controversy and the safety systems, which were worked on from 1906 to 1915, were never completely completed, and in some cases even dismantled. In particular, the ridge between the Inner Höllentalspitze and the Zugspitze is largely free of iron clamps and wire rope safety devices.
The name has also been discussed a lot. It was feared that the name “Jubiläums weg ” would lure too many people into high alpine terrain that they are not up to. Today the term “Jubiläumsgrat” is mostly used for the tour.
The ridge was crossed for the first time up to the inner Höllentalspitze in 1896 by Emil Diehl, along the entire length up to the Alpspitze in 1897 by Ferdinand Henning. The first winter ascent did not take place until 19/20. March 1927 by W. Hofmeier, Karl von Kraus and Karl Wien. At Christmas 1936 Otto Eidenschink managed the first solo winter ascent. In 24 hours he overcame the ridge from the Stuibenhütte to the Munich house under difficult winter conditions .
Lead
The Jubiläumsgrat can be walked in both directions. Alpinists often start from the Zugspitze after spending the night in the Munich house or taking the first cable car to the summit. When you leave the Zugspitz plateau, a board refers to the last descent of the Alpspitzbahn. The entrance can be reached shortly after crossing the Zugspitz-Ostgipfels. The transition from west to east also has the advantage that a little more has to be descended than ascended. Nevertheless, due to the course of the ridge, there are still about 800 meters of counter-climb. The first third of the ridge to the Inner Höllentalspitze is the most demanding part of the tour. You go here with the utmost attention early in the morning. After crossing the three Höllentalspitzen the number of insurance companies increases. At the Vollkarspitze , parts of the previous guide also broke away with two rock falls . The Jubiläumsweg runs from the Vollkarspitze towards the Grießkarscharte instead of following the further ridge to the Hochblassen . From the saddle there is still a good 150 meters in altitude to the Alpspitz summit.
The walking time to the Grießkarscharte is usually 6–9 hours. In unfavorable weather conditions, inadequate fitness or poor conditions, the visit time can be extended to 12 hours and more. For the descent from the Grießkarscharte, depending on the destination, another 2.5 hours should be planned. Common destinations are the Höllentalangerhütte in Höllental , the Osterfelderkopf cable car or the Kreuzeckhaus . If you continue the tour from the Grießkarscharte to the Alpspitz summit, you need to plan further time reserves.
If the weather permits, the Jubiläumsgrat can also be climbed by experienced alpinists in winter, but often requires a bivouac.
Jubiläumsgrathütte (Höllentalgrathütte)
Approximately in the middle of the Jubiläumsgrat, between Mittlerer and Äußerer Höllentalspitze, is the Jubiläumsgrathütterl ( 47 ° 25 ′ 15.1 ″ N , 11 ° 1 ′ 34.8 ″ E ), an uncultivated, aluminum welded, red lacquered bivouac box , which is only used for overnight stays in emergencies and can accommodate 12 people. The old bivouac box made of corrugated iron from 1962 was dismantled at the end of July 2011 and replaced by the new box on August 12, 2011. The first emergency accommodation on the Jubiläumsgrat was built in 1914.
The now dismantled Jubiläumsgrathütterl
The new bivouac box erected in 2011
difficulty
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Over its entire length, the Jubiläumsgrat has points in difficulty levels I and II up to III (according to the UIAA scale ). Due to two landslides in 2001 on the Vollkarspitze, the climbing difficulties there also increased significantly; the most difficult part has meanwhile been defused again by a wire rope and step clamps, but requires great effort (via ferrata difficulty D ).
Climbers must have a head for heights and experience in climbing exposed passages without ropes. The ridge between the Zugspitze and the inner Höllentalspitze is sometimes only half a meter wide and breaks off several hundred meters into the Höllental and Zugspitzplatt. The physical requirements are high due to the length of the ridge. Some places are insured, partly with steel cables, partly only with hooks for self-belaying. In summer there is often a high risk of thunderstorms. There is no shade whatsoever on the ridge and there is no way to replenish your fluids between the Zugspitze and Alpspitze.
The tour can only be prematurely terminated at one point via the Brunntalgrat-Steig. This leads from the Inner Höllentalspitze southwards towards the Brunntalkopf to the Knorrhütte (2052 m), in about 1½ hours. It is easy to miss, hardly less demanding (I-II) than the Jubiläumsgrat itself and must be climbed freely. A place "secured" with iron bars is very exposed and requires maximum concentration. Climbers who only want to climb half of the “Jubigrat” can choose the ascent from the Knorrhütte and reach the Zugspitze summit with the Munich house in around 4½ hours via Brunntal and Jubiläumsgrat.
swell
- ^ Report in: Alpine Club Yearbook 1964
- ^ Stefan Beulke: Wetterstein, Alpine Club Guide . Bergverlag Rother, Munich 1996, ISBN 978-3763311194 .
- ↑ German Alpine Club Section Munich and Oberland: New bivouac box installed on the Jubiläumsgrat - aluminum can replaces old corrugated iron ridge. (pdf; 116 kB) August 14, 2011, accessed on August 15, 2011 .
