Cord (fabric)

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Fabric of a corduroy shirt
Trenkercord (guild trousers)

Cord (also Kord or Manchester ; in Austria colloquially also Schnürlsamt ), English corduroy , is a fabric that is made in the cord, (hollow weft, struck) weave, with velvety longitudinal ribs. The origin of the word is not entirely clear. Cord was initially mainly produced in Manchester (England).

definition

With corduroy, only the weft thread forms the pile and thus the stripe effect . Like velvet , cord has a grain direction that must be taken into account during processing, as the fabric looks and feels different with or against the grain.

Usually, cord is divided into the following according to the number of ribs on ten centimeters of fabric:

  • Cable cord : up to ten ribs
  • Trenkercord (named after Luis Trenker ), cable cord or wide cord : 10 to 25 ribs
  • Genoa cord or Manchester : 25 to 40 ribs
  • Fine cord or baby cord : more than 40 ribs

If the fabric appears used, it is called antique cord .

Cord is typically used as a material for vests , jackets and trousers , especially for guild clothing . The high wear resistance of the cord in workwear is based on the thick pile that protects the joints between the warp and weft threads .

Cord usually consists of 80% to 90% cotton and 20% to 10% polyester , with stretch cord from around 95% cotton and 5% elastane .

Historic quote

Heinrich Heine mentions in his memoirs (1855–56) his father's trade, who traded in Velveteen : “Since you, dear reader, may not know what 'Velveteen' is, I allow myself to explain to you that this is a is the English word, which means velvety, and it is used to designate a kind of velvet of cotton, from which very beautiful trousers, vests and even camisole oils are made. This clothing material also bears the name 'Manchester', after the factory town of the same name, where it was first manufactured. "

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Alfred Halscheidt: Textiles from A – Z. BoD - Books on Demand, Norderstedt 2011, ISBN 978-3-8448-5871-6 , p. 83.
  2. Ingrid Loschek : Reclam's fashion and costume dictionary . Verlag Philipp Reclam jun., Stuttgart 1987, ISBN 3-15-010343-6 .
  3. http://www.stofflexikon.com/cord/251/cord.html
  4. http://www.zeno.org/Meyers-1905/A/Manchester+%5B1%5D?hl=manchester
  5. http://www.stofflexikon.com/babycord/73/babycord.html
  6. Die Gartenlaube , 1884, p. 230

Web links

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