Maurizio Zanolla

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Manolo (2013)

Maurizio Zanolla (usually just Manolo or Il Mago (Italian: the magician ) called) (born February 16, 1958 in Feltre ) is an Italian climber . He is considered one of the pioneers of modern climbing in Italy.

Career

Zanolla started climbing at the age of 16 in the pala group where he grew up. Here he also managed numerous of his first ascents , some of which were sparsely secured, such as the Supermatita route, which was only repeated ten years later, or the Ultimo Movimento , which has probably not been repeated until now , which are considered milestones in (modern) rock climbing. In the eighties he opened up numerous alpine and sport climbing routes outside of his home area , including in Croatia and in the Sarca Valley around Arco . He was the first Italian to succeed in climbing routes in the eighth, ninth and tenth degrees of difficulty (UIAA) . In 2008, when he was almost 50 years old, he was able to repeat the Bimbaluna route in the Swiss climbing area St. Loup with a level of difficulty 9a + (UIAA XI +). In 2010, Zanolla received the Sector Climbing Award , which was presented for the first time, as part of the Rockmaster . He is a trained beer brewer and works as a mountain guide.

Alpine climbing

Manolo (2013)
First ascents
  • Supermatita (VII +), Sass Maor , 1980 - was only repeated ten years after the first ascent
  • Scalet-Baisin (IX), Oala, 1981 (first red point ascent )
  • Via dei Finanzieri (IX, onsight ), Cima Lastei, 1986 (first red point ascent)
  • Via Bonvecchia (IX + / X-, onsight), Pala, 1986 (first red point ascent)
  • Nureyev (IX +), Sass Maor, 1993
  • El Marubio (IX-), Cimon della Pala , 1995
  • Cani Morti (X +), Dolomites, 2004
  • Solo per vecchi guerrieri (X + / XI-, 4 pitches ), Dolomites, 2006

Sport climbing

First ascents
  • Mattino dei Maghi (8a) Monte Totoga, 1981
  • La Danca Immobile (8a), Monte Totoga, 1984
  • Enola Gay (8a), Monte Totoga, 1984
  • Terminator (8a +), Monte Totoga, 1985
  • Semper Piu 'Difficile (8a + / 8b), 1985
  • Ultimo Movimento (8b), Monte Totoga, 1986
  • Il Maratoneta (8b +), Velebit (Croatia), 1987
  • Malvasia (8b + / 8c), Dvigrad (Croatia), 1987
  • O ce l'hai o ne hai bisogno (8b +), Baule, 1990
Repetitions
  • Bain de Sang (8c + / 9a), St. Loup (Switzerland), 2007
  • Bimbaluna (9a / 9a +) St. Loup, 2008
On-sight inspections
  • La Fissure Serge (7c +), Buoux, 1988
  • La Pista (8a), Arco , 1989
  • Rock and Blues (8b +), Kalymnos , 2009
Free solo tours
  • La Gatta (7c), Monte Totoga, 1990
  • Masala Dosa (8a), Monte Totoga, 1992

Web links

literature

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Manolo climbs Bimbaluna. (No longer available online.) Klettern.de, archived from the original on January 31, 2009 ; Retrieved September 22, 2010 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.klettern.de
  2. ↑ Arco Rock Legends to Manolo, Ondra & Noguchi. Retrieved September 22, 2010 .
  3. ↑ Visit of the Old Men in Climbing , September 2010, ISSN  1437-7462 , p. 17
  4. ↑ Page no longer available , search in web archives: Maurizio Zanolla manages an 8b + on sight on Kalymnos ; Retrieved September 22, 2010@1@ 2Template: dead link / www.ims.bz
personal data
SURNAME Zanolla, Maurizio
ALTERNATIVE NAMES Manolo
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian climber
DATE OF BIRTH February 16, 1958
PLACE OF BIRTH Feltre