Cimon della Pala
| Cimon della Pala | ||
|---|---|---|
 Cima di Vezzana and Cimon della Pala in the alpenglow |
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| height | 3184 m slm | |
| location | Trentino , Italy | |
| Mountains | Pala group of the Dolomites | |
| Dominance | 0.78 km → Cima di Vezzana | |
| Notch height | 259 m ↓ Passo del Travignolo | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 17 '6 " N , 11 ° 49' 26" E | |
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| rock | Main dolomite | |
| Age of the rock | Middle Triassic | |
| First ascent | Edward R. Whitwell, Santo Siorpaes and Christian Lauener on June 3, 1870 | |
| Normal way | Southeast shoulder ( III ) | |
| particularities | "Matterhorn of the Dolomites", depicted in the coat of arms of the Guardia di Finanza | |
The Cimon della Pala (also Cimone della Pala or Cimone for short ) is a 3184 m slm high mountain in the Dolomites in the Italian province of Trento . It is the second highest peak in the Pala group and is often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Dolomites" ( Italian: "Il Cervino delle Dolomiti" ) due to its characteristic shape . It is located in Parco Naturale Paneveggio - Pale di San Martino and is considered an important climbing mountain.
Location and surroundings
The Cimon della Pala is located in the territory of the municipality of Primiero San Martino di Castrozza and the watershed between the Cismón and Travignolo valleys . It is flanked to the north by the Cima di Vezzana , the highest mountain in the group. The Passo del Travignolo ( 2925 m ) separates the two peaks from each other. On the east side of the mountain is the Bivacco Fiamme Gialle ( 3005 m ), from which the east ridge leads to the summit. To the west, the mountain falls into the Primierotal and shows one of the most imposing wall formations in the Dolomites. In the shady north gorge, Ghiacciaio del Travignolo, is one of the last remains of the Pale glacier . The north-west view from Passo Rolle or Baita Segantini is one of the most famous and most photographed Dolomite panoramas and brought comparisons to the mountain with the famous Matterhorn .
Alpinism
The rock pyramid of the Cimon della Pala is one of the most important climbing mountains in the Dolomites. In 1869 Paul Grohmann tried to climb the current normal route , but had to give up before the summit. In January of the following year, the pala pioneer Leslie Stephen gave a lecture in front of the Alpine Club in London , in which he affirmed that he could not imagine further first ascent in the pala group:
“I am inclined to believe, and I have no conscience, ardently hoping that these mountains will remain insurmountable. For my part, I have no hope of climbing it, and I cannot say that I wish this fame to go to someone else. "
Among the audience was Edward R. Whitwell, who in June of the same year managed the first ascent of Cimon with the Swiss Christian Lauener and Santo Siorpaes . Unlike Grohmann, the three chose the dangerous ascent from the Travignolo glacier through the north face ( III ) , which is rarely used today, and were the first to reach the summit on June 3, 1870.
This hussar piece triggered a wave of first ascents, so that all Pala peaks were conquered within 20 years. Today's normal route to the Cimon della Pala (southeast shoulder, III ) was not developed until 1889 by Ludwig Darmstaedter , Luigi Bernard and Johann Niederwieser . Another important first ascent was made by Georg Leuch in 1905 when he climbed the southwest face ( IV ). The development of ever new routes culminated in 1995 with the El Marubio ( IX- ) tour by Maurizio Zanolla .
Important first ascents
- North flank ( III ): Edward R. Whitwell, Santo Siorpaes and Christian Lauener 1870
- Normal route over the southeast shoulder ( III ): Ludwig Darmstaedter , Luigi Bernard and Johann Niederwieser 1889
- Northwest ridge ( III + ): Gilberto Melzi and Giuseppe Zecchini 1893
- Southwest face ( IV ): Georg Leuchs single-handedly in 1905
- Via Andrich through the southwest face ( VI ): Alvise Andrich and Furio Bianchet 1934
- Direttissima Fiamme Gialle ( VI ): Rinaldo Zagonel, Carlo Plattner and Danilo Busin 1963
- El Marubio through the southwest face ( IX- ): Maurizio Zanolla , A. Sorato, C. Zorzi and M. Zagonel 1995
Ascent
Most mountaineers today follow the normal route that Darmstaedter first climbed , which leads from the Bivacco Fiamme Gialle ( 3005 m ) over the southeast shoulder to the summit in 1¼ hours. In addition to rock steps and gullies ( UIAA grade II and III), a narrow through cave, the so-called cat hole, leads to the summit.
The easiest way to get to the CAI bivouac (nine beds) is 2½ hours from the Rifugio Rosetta ( 2581 m ) high above San Martino di Castrozza . A variant of the ascent is the Via Ferrata Bolver Lugli , a moderately difficult but strenuous via ferrata ( D ), which is best reached from the Rifugio Col Verde ( 1956 m ). The chairlift to Col Verde and then the gondola to Rosetta can be used as a lift .
Other popular summit routes lead over the long northwest ridge ( III + ) and through the southwest face ( IV ).
Trivia
The beginning fascination for the aesthetics of the summit went hand in hand with the founding of the Alpine Club and the increasing interest of the British in mountaineering. Josiah Gilbert and George Cheetham Churchill, for example, saw the Cimon della Pala in a painting in an inn in 1862 and decided to see the summit in person. Many tourists did the same.
As a result, the Cimon della Pala even found its way into heraldry and made it onto the coat of arms of the Italian financial police Guardia di Finanza ( Fiamme Gialle , German yellow flames ) next to the lion of St. The organization operated two barracks in the area of the Pale Group. The Caserma Colbricon-Cimon delle Fiamme Gialle served as a base for the Guardia di Finanza (SAGF) mountain rescue service, while the Caserma Sass Maor trained cadets from the Finance Academy and helicopter pilots. The helicopter crews should learn to survive in extreme environments. Today the alpine base of the sports department of the Guardia di Finanza is still located there. Some members of the Fiamme Gialle signed in the 1960s with the development of new routes in the list of first climbers of the Cimon della Pala.
Web links
- Routes on the Cimon della Pala (Italian)
Individual evidence
- ↑ Ewald Weiß: Pala - southern bastion of the Dolomites . Berge No. 67, Olympia-Verlag , Nuremberg 1994, p. 38. ISSN 0947-5958
- ↑ a b Cimon della Pala (3185 m). Sergio Ramella, accessed April 22, 2016 (Italian).
- ↑ Pala - southern bastion of the Dolomites . Berge No. 67, Olympia-Verlag , Nuremberg 1994, p. 65. ISSN 0947-5958
- ↑ Horst Höfler & Paul Werner: Via ferrata in the Dolomites. With the Vicentine Alps, Brenta and Lake Garda mountains. Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2000, p. 82. ISBN 3-7633-3096-8 .
- ↑ Cimon della Pala - The most famous peak of the Pala group. tr3ntino.it, accessed on April 22, 2016 .
- ↑ Le Montagne Del Trentino - Cimon della Pala. Retrieved April 22, 2016 (Italian).
- ^ Curiosità sulla Guardia di Finanza ... Montagnando.it, accessed April 22, 2016 (Italian).