Nevado del Plomo

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Nevado del Plomo
The northeast side of the Nevado del Plomo in Argentina, with the Alfa (the round one) and Beta (the long, diagonal one) glaciers.

The northeast side of the Nevado del Plomo in Argentina, with the Alfa (the round one) and Beta (the long, diagonal one) glaciers.

height 6070  m
location Chile / Argentina border
Mountains To the
Dominance 40 km →  Tupungato
Notch height 1550 m
Coordinates 33 ° 6 ′ 12 ″  S , 70 ° 3 ′ 58 ″  W Coordinates: 33 ° 6 ′ 12 ″  S , 70 ° 3 ′ 58 ″  W
Nevado del Plomo (Chile)
Nevado del Plomo
First ascent January 2, 1910 by Fritz Bade, Federico Reichert , Robert Helbling
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The Nevado del Plomo (also Nevado el Plomo ) is a 6070  m high mountain on the border between the Chilean Región Metropolitana and the Argentine province of Mendoza , about 8 kilometers south of Juncal . There is a risk of confusion with El Plomo , about 20 kilometers south-west, which is more than 600 meters lower , but which is climbed much more frequently.

Location and surroundings

The Nevado del Plomo lies remote in the main chain of the Andes between the valleys of the Río Olivares and the Río Plomos .

The Río Olivares is located in the west of Chilean and is fed by the Juncal Sur glaciar coming from the Juncal . For a long time, the Gran Salto Río Olivares waterfall ( Lage ) blocked the approach to the rear valley for pack animals at around 3300 meters, so that over 2500 meters of altitude had to be overcome without pack animals. In the meantime, the waterfall is bypassed with an artificially created path suitable for mules. This allows the pack animals to be used up to a height of 5000 meters.

The valley of the Río Plomos and its side valleys form the Argentine east side.

Ascent history

The first ascent was on January 2, 1910 by the German-Argentinian Federico Reichert , the Swiss Robert Helbling and the German Fritz Bade, who reached the summit from the Argentine east side through the valley of the Río Plomo via the north ridge.

The second ascent took place on February 14, 1950 by the Germans Wolfgang Förster, Wilhelm Niehaus and Eberhard Meier over the Chilean north-west side. From the base camp in the Olivarestal below the Gran Salto Río Olivares they needed three days for the ascent and another two days for the descent.

On January 8, 2003, the German Jürgen Straub climbed the 2000 meter high south face single-handedly via El Sendero del León (Path of the Lion) ( UIAA VII ).

Overall, the Nevado del Plomo is very rarely climbed because of its remote location.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. IGM , quoted by andeshandbook.com
  2. ^ Eberhard Meier: Nevado del Plomo. (PDF; 56 kB) Primera ascensión desde el lado chileno, 14 de Febrero 1950. Accessed on October 26, 2010 (Spanish).