Paisley pattern

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Paisley or paisley pattern is the name for an abstract, decorative fabric pattern , which is the Persian boteh pattern ( Persian بته و فرش) (also Mir-e butha or Mir-i-bota ) represents. In its basic form it is a leaf with a pointed, curved end in the manner of a large comma and is reminiscent of the fish-bubble ornament of the Gothic. The origin was with the Chaldeans , who evidently used the motif to depict the shoot of the date palm , which is vital for them . The motif was widespread up to the Celts , but was replaced there again by Greek and Roman ornaments.

origin

Early form of a Kashmir shawl in a portrait of Abdullah Qutb Shah (d. 1672)
Typical women's clothing of the mid-19th century: dress and plaid throw - here with a paisley pattern

The name comes from the Scottish town of Paisley in the Strathclyde region near Glasgow , which was a major textile processing center in the 19th century. The floral motif ( boteh pattern ) developed in the Persian Sassanid Empire and came to India via the Mughals . On their return from India, British soldiers brought Kashmir scarves with the motif later characteristic of paisley products to Great Britain. Since the 15th century were in Kashmir shawls in the labor-intensive body - Bildwirkereitechnik made. The production of such a scarf took two to three years - the pieces were accordingly valuable. While it was a men's clothing item in India, it was mainly women in Europe who liked it.

In Edinburgh and Norwich , the production of imitations began around 1780. Production reached its first peak around 1800 when fashion was based on Greek and Roman robes, the scarves went well with them and added splashes of color. At the same time, the city of Paisley needed a replacement for the declining silk processing, directed all its business acumen to the scarf production and thus made its name a synonym for the scarf. Since very few could afford the original made from precious materials, the enterprising Scottish weavers produced paisley scarves much cheaper on jacquard looms made of local wool. In 1814 the pattern called pine by the weavers appeared for the first time on scarves in paisley , in the 1840s the crinoline dress came into fashion and with it a rectangular (about 3 × 1.5 meters) scarf, called plaid - what a woman with these days typically went outside.

Paisley from Hawes & Curtis
Bow ties, silk, self-tied, paisley pattern
Handkerchief made of silk with a woven paisley pattern

Business was good in 1834, with scarves being produced in the town for an estimated £ 1 million . Overproduction and a slump in sales caused the town of Paisley to become insolvent in 1842, people went hungry and Queen Victoria bought 17 scarves as an expression of her solidarity.

The bustles ( bustle ) were in 1870 the beginning of the end: to them fit rather capes or jackets, but no plaid - 1942 the last remnants of vanished once so famous weavers in Paisley.

Traditionally, the pattern is made in different shades of red. Paisleys now come in all sorts of colors. They are still popular and are used in ties , scarves , sofa cushions, upholstery fabrics, and other home textiles. Today the pattern is no longer embroidered, but mainly woven or printed.

The motif experienced a renaissance in the context of the hippie movement . More recently, paisley patterns can be found in the collections of Burberry , D&G , Gucci and Etro .

The pattern found worldwide distribution in modern pop culture through its use on bandanas as a popular fashion accessory of the hip-hop subculture , which in turn adopted it from American street and rocker gangs.

Hundreds of patterns on blankets and cloths, as well as traditional looms, are on display at the Paisley Museum & Art Gallery on High Street in Paisley.

See also

literature

  • Joost Elffers (ed.): 19th century paisley patterns from Scotland and France. DuMont, Cologne 1989, ISBN 3-7701-2294-1 .
  • Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern. The Official Illustrated History. Glasgow 1987, ISBN 0-86267-193-0 .

Web links

Commons : Paisley Pattern  - collection of images, videos, and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Gert Scobel: The magic carpet: A diagnosis of modernity . Fischer E-Books, 2017, ISBN 978-3-10-403778-3 ( books.google.de ).
  2. ↑ The paisley pattern . Retrieved June 17, 2018.
  3. ^ Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern: The Official Illustrated History. Glasgow 1987.
  4. ^ A b Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern. The Official Illustrated History. 1987, p. 11.
  5. ^ A b Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern. The Official Illustrated History. 1987, p. 9.
  6. ^ Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern. The Official Illustrated History. 1987, p. 62.
  7. ^ A b Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern. The Official Illustrated History. 1987, p. 7.
  8. ^ A b Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern. The Official Illustrated History. 1987, p. 8.
  9. ^ Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern. The Official Illustrated History. 1987, p. 44.
  10. ^ Valerie Reilly: The Paisley Pattern. The Official Illustrated History. 1987, p. 42.
  11. ↑ Milan Fashion Week: Pretty in Paisley Floods the Gucci, D&G and Burberry Prorsum Runways (2008)