Shanjia qinggong
The book Shanjia qinggong ( Chinese :山家清供; Pinyin : Qinggong Shānjiā;, Simple fare of the mountain hermit ') is a cookbook that of Lin Hong ( 林洪 ) during the period of the Southern Song Dynasty was written. It consists of 2 booklets (juan).
It reports on the preparation of over 100 dishes and small snacks or desserts (caidian) as well as drinks. The main part is the preparation of the vegetarian dishes (shucai), the meat dishes only contain meat from chicken (yu), rabbit (tu), fish (yu) and crab (xie). The techniques of preparation of no less dishes and snacks are quite unconventional. The author's contributions to the discussion about the dishes and small snacks or desserts (caidian) are also very astute.
The book is a valuable resource for exploring the beverages, food, and culinary arts of the Song Dynasty and the period before it.
author
We are not fully informed about the life of the author Lin Hong . The Shuofu edition (see below) says his age- old name is Longluo, his hao name is Keshanren ("字 龙 落 ， 号 可 山人"). There is also an edition that says his majority name is Keshan (可 山), his hao name is Longfa (龙 发).
content
It reports on drinks, dishes, snacks or snacks made from wheat flour or rice flour, etc. (miandian 面 点), grain dishes (fan 饭), porridge dishes (zhou 粥), among others. The work has the following special features:
The ingredients used for the dishes and desserts or small snacks (caidian 菜 点) are mostly vegetables from the own garden, wild herbs, melons and fruits as well as bean products, and more rarely poultry, game as well as fish and shellfish.
In the main part, the source of what has been written is usually first given for the text on each food or anecdotes are told. The ingredients, preparation and special features are then mentioned. On the one hand it enriches knowledge, on the other hand it is elegantly written in terms of style and language.
It contains quite a few top-quality diet products :
- For example, a “pine pollen honey cake” (songhuangbing 松 黄 饼) is made from pine pollen (songhuafen 松 花粉) and honey (蜜);
- a " botuo pasta (made from thin, drawn dough) cooked with the juice of a crushed Rehmannia root and wheat flour " (dihuang botuo 地 黄 馎 饦);
- Flat peach dish cooked from flat peach ( Prunus persica var. compressa ) (pántáo 蟠桃) and rice (pantaofan 蟠桃 饭);
- “Golden rice” cooked from chrysanthemum flowers (huangjuhua 黄 菊花) and rice 金 饭 etc., all of them have a specific therapeutic effect.
Relatively many very fine dishes and desserts or small snacks are included in the production . For example the dishes:
- "Orange stuffed with crab meat" ( xiehuangcheng蟹 酿 橙), in which the crab meat is stuffed into a hollowed out orange and steamed.
- “ Pieces of mandarin fish steamed in lotus seed pods ” ( lianfang yubao莲 房 鱼 包), in which the fish meat of the codfish Siniperca chuatsi , ( Aucha perch ) is filled into hollowed-out seed pods of the lotus and then steamed.
- "White Snow and Red-cloud soup" ( xuexiagang雪霞羹) for which bean curd and hibiscus flowers steamed (shao) become a red-white kreuzundquer.
- “The mountain hermit's three crunchy ingredients” ( shanjia sancui山 家 三 脆), in which young bamboo shoots , small mushrooms and sprouts of the Chinese wolfberry are briefly scalded with hot water, then seasonings are added and mixed with them.
- “ Plum blossom noodle soup” ( meihua tangbing梅花 汤 饼), in which an iron mold is used in which dough slices are pressed into the shape of plum blossoms and then prepared in chicken broth for the dish.
In terms of conception, form and naming, all of them have reached a relatively high level.
In addition, the dish referred to therein as the “ Crimson Cloud Sacrifice ” ( boxiagong拨 霞 供) is the earliest dish in China to use the shuan (涮) cooking method. The book also states, “Pork and sheep meat can also be used for this preparation method” (“猪羊 皆可”). From this one can see that the Chinese dish called shuànyángròu (涮羊肉) (mutton fondue, or more precisely: thinly sliced mutton slices cooked in boiling hot water by dipping and swirling back and forth, which is also called the “Mongolian hot pot”) has a very long history Has.
philosophy
In addition to the characteristics mentioned above, reference is also made to cooking theory in some places in the book. For example, the thesis is quoted: "There is no fixed taste: what you like is good (食 无 定 味 ， 适口 者 珍)", whose influence in the history of Chinese cuisine was relatively large.
Recipes (selection)
- Orange stuffed with crab meat
The crab meat is removed and filled into a hollowed-out orange, it is put into the rice steamer (zeng 甑), it is steamed with rice wine, vinegar and water and eaten with vinegar and salt.
- Pieces of mandarin fish steamed in lotus seed pods
Take the meat of a mandarin fish, add rice wine, soy sauce and aromatic seasoning ingredients and mix everything together, fill it into hollowed-out seed pods of the lotus and steam it until cooked.
- Victims of purple clouds (thin slices of hare meat cooked in boiling hot water by dipping and waving back and forth)
The hare meat is cut into slices, briefly marinated with rice wine, jiang, Szechuan pepper and other condiments, then held in boiling water with chopsticks and cooked (“bǎishú 摆 熟”), finally it is eaten dipped in spice. In reality, this dish is rabbit meat cooked with the shuan cooking technique (shuàntùròu 涮 兔肉).
- Bean curd à la (Su) Dongpo
After the bean curd has been fried in leek oil (congyou), the crushed nuts of the Chinese nut slice (feizi) and jiang (酱) are added and cooked together.
- Jade mushrooms cooked in rice wine sauce
Fresh mushrooms are briefly boiled in water after being washed clean, then you take them out and cook them in good rice wine. They can also be cooked with bamboo shoots.
Early prints
The work is contained in the book collections Shuofu (Late Yuan / Early Ming Dynasty) and Yimen guangdu (Ming Dynasty), Xiaoshi shanfang congshu (Qing Dynasty) and Comprehensive Collection of Congshu (Republic).
Modern editions
The work is relatively easily accessible in the Japanese collective work Chugoku shokkei sosho and in the series Zhongguo pengren guji congkan (edited by Wu Ke 乌克, Beijing: Zhongguo shangye chubanshe 1985).
literature
- Zhongguo pengren baike quanshu , p. 497.
- Zhongguo pengren cidian , p. 661.
- Zhongguo pengren wenxian tiyao , No. 28
- Zhongguo shijing , p. 870.
See also
Web links
- Françoise Sabban: La diète parfaite d'un lettre retiré sous les Song du Sud . (PDF; French)
- Partial reproduction of the work on Wikisource (from Yimen guangdu , Chinese original)