Trench coat

Men's short trench (2018)

The trench ( engl. Trench for "digging trenches "; coat for "sheath") is a moderately long to long, usually double-row raincoat without hood from gabardine or poplin with belt. It was invented by Thomas Burberry and Aquascutum London at the end of the 19th century as a coat for the British Army .

Characteristic

Originally the trench coat was a double-breasted men's weather coat with a wide crossover. A single-breasted coat for women and men has developed from this. The collar, which can also be worn high with a strap, is typical of the cotton-like coat. There are also wide lapels, quilted edges, often with buttonable and curved front and back yokes or a roll, lots of buttons, including leather buttons, lots of pockets, epaulettes, adjustable sleeve clips, round belts with buckles and thorns. Sometimes it also has the belt rings that used to be used to attach binoculars. A back slit or a buttoned back pleat is common. Preferred types of fabric are poplin or gabardine.

A “stadium coat” is a weatherproof coat in the style of a trench coat, where the collar can be raised to protect against the rain. Usually it has a hood, often a waistline.

history

Trench coat at the time of the First World War

Thomas Burberry laid the foundation stone for the trench coat with the invention of the gabardine fabric around 1870. The water-repellent properties of this material made the trench coat particularly weather-resistant and therefore attractive for the military. In World War I he was carried by British and French soldiers and so came about the use in the trenches (English trench ) to its name. Its cut is designed for good weather protection and good mobility. Aquascutum London is also credited with inventing the trench coat, but the exact circumstances have not been clearly established.

The trench coat became known through film stars such as Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca , Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's , Horst Tappert in Derrick and Inspector Gadget . The raincoat worn by Peter Falk as Inspector Columbo , on the other hand, is not a trench coat in the narrower sense.

In films, the trench coat is often used by detectives in the film noir genre. In Sketchen , a trench coat is the typical (and only) clothing used by exhibitionists . Both are established clichés that are used in a targeted manner, just like the final scene of "Casablanca" is often satirized (with the help of a trench coat).

literature

Angela Ahrendts : Back to the trench coat . In: Harvard Business Manager , Vol. 35 (2013), Issue 3, pp. 54-60 ISSN 0945-6570
Robert Leach: The fashion resource book. Research for design . Thames & Hudson, London 2012, ISBN 978-0-500-29035-4 , pp. 78-79.
Nick Foulkes: The Trech Book . Édition Assouline, Paris 2007, ISBN 2-7594-0163-4 .
Friederike Meyer: Patterns for coats. Basic cuts, model cuts. Processing; Paletot, duffle coat, ulster, opera cape, trench coat, pea coat . Rundschau-Verlag Königer, Munich 2013, ISBN 978-3-929305-70-8 .

Web links

Commons : Trench Coats - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Wiktionary: Trenchcoat - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

↑ Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 1, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, keyword “Trenchcoat”. ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .
↑ Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 2, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, p. 858, keyword “Stadium jacket”. ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .

[1] Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 1, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, keyword “Trenchcoat”. ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .

[Hofer-2] Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon . 7th edition, Volume 2, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, p. 858, keyword “Stadium jacket”. ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .