coat
The coat is a garment similar to the jacket , the main difference being the length. The differentiation of the length from which the jacket ends and the coat begins depends on the era and the fashion. Except for special forms (dressing gown, bathrobe, etc.), it is worn outdoors, for example as a weather coat. It is the outermost item of clothing, except for any additional accessories such as scarves or capes. The term coat comes from Old High German mantal , which in turn is derived from the Latin mantellum , which means something like cover , cover .
history
One of the oldest archeologically proven coats is the five thousand year old grass coat of the glacier corpse Ötzi . The fine and skilful craftsmanship of this and other of his garments led to a comprehensive re-evaluation of the Central European culture of the Neolithic Age .
The Romans called their early coat forms Sagum and Trabea , distinguishing between short and longer, semicircular cut coats. The Greeks wore chlamys and himation .
Sheath shapes A – Z
Caban
The Caban coat is one of the classics when it comes to maritime men's fashion. It was specially made for Breton fishermen and was originally white. In Brittany this coat is called "Cape Gwenn", which means something like "white fabric". A rare name for the German version is "Stutzer", which in turn is the name for a short traditional coat in Austria. In the US Navy it is called Peacoat, in the German Navy it is also called "Kolani".
Cape
A cape (also known as a pelerine ) is a sleeveless, wide-cut cloak for men and women, usually with slit arm openings, often with a (possibly removable) hood . Today it is often used as a rain cape, another variant is the black cape, worn as an "evening coat" with a tailcoat .
In the 1970s, capes (loden capes) were often seen in the normal street scene, but almost only as women's clothing. Although they can be quite practical with their generous protection, they are rarely seen.
In recent years, some fashion designers have attempted a remake of the cape, both for women and men, but with rather moderate success. Even now, many fashion designers have again included the cape in their range in both women's and men's fashion (both in long and short versions).
A cape is a classic part of a superhero costume.
Capuchon
A capuchon (from French capuchon , hood) is a short women's coat with a large hood.
Crombie Coat
The Crombie is a classic English city coat, tailored from thick wool , usually in a single row with a concealed button placket. This coat is very popular in the skinhead scene because it is used for z. B. symbolizes the working class .
Deel
A deel (Mongolian Дэл, dress) is a traditional coat that has been worn for several centuries, especially in Mongolia. It is worn over clothing, usually has no pockets and is usually made of cotton, felt or silk. The deel is buttoned on the collar and on the right side and is wrapped with a fabric or leather sash, the bus. Tools and other everyday items can be attached to the bus. The sash can be up to seven meters long for men and is wrapped around the waist in a clockwise direction. Women wear a three meter long sash around their waist.
Duffle coat
The duffle coat is a sporty cut made of wool; typically with a hood , patch pockets and toggle fastening.
Garrick
The actor David Garrick was the first to have this coat made for himself in the 18th century: Numerous, superimposed cape collars were supposed to protect the English landed gentry, and later high-class coachmen, from rain and moisture.
Havelock
The modern Havelock is a particularly long, sleeveless cape coat for the evening with a falling silk lapel (lapel corner lower than the collar base), concealed button placket and flap pockets to complement a tailcoat or tuxedo.
Inverness coat
The Inverness coat is named after the Inverness region in Scotland and is also called MacFarlane . It is cut wide and has no sleeves. The arms are covered by a two-piece cape that is loosely hanging down at the front.
He became known through the Sherlock Holmes and Dracula films.
Throw up
The puke (also called puke) is a poncho-like throw without sleeves made of coarse wool (also called puke) or loden. The cut is either rectangular or round and traditionally has only one head hole and one breast slit. More modern forms of vomit often have a stylish stand-up collar, a continuous button placket and hand pockets.
Lacquer coat
Lacquer coats are made from coated materials (PU or PVC). The varnish can be gloss varnish or matt varnish . Matt lacquer is also used in the sporting sector for rain jackets and rain suits.
The first vinyl coats were women's coats, they replaced the classic raincoat.
In the end, they served less as a functional piece of clothing, but more as a fashion accessory. Classic lacquer coats are black, red or white, today retailers supply all color nuances. Similar to nappa leather, gloss lacquer is attributed an erotic charisma.
Lacquer clothing comes in different shapes and designs, now also for men. Hats, caps and southwesters are also made from it.
Leather coat
The cut of the very heavy leather coat is based on the coats of the officers of the First World War . It is similar in cut to a tight blazer or jacket, the lapels can be worn turned up like a jacket, but alternatively they can be folded over one another for better protection and closed under the collar. These coats were in a very dark green with epaulettes in the Wehrmacht and the SS in the period of National Socialism for officers permissible, but privately to be procured uniform parts. Such coats were also worn in civilian versions by the Gestapo , but the official service coat was made of rubberized cotton (“ Klepper ”), but the term “Gestapo coat” is still common today for this type of coat made of leather. Because of this past, this type of leather coat is often associated with the Third Reich and is often used in many media productions as an obvious identifier for Nazi officials.
Today's leather trenchcoat is usually made of cowhide nappa leather or suede and is lightly padded, as is the synthetic leather coat. With a warm wool lining or a fur or faux fur lining, it can also be worn in winter. Smooth leather versions are often not lined, and impregnation of the leather provides limited protection against moisture.
The leather coat is particularly popular in the metal scene . Unlike the uniforms of the Third Reich, the normal coat color for members of the scene is black instead of dark green. As a rule, these coats are cut less uniformly, but are usually longer and made of black nappa leather. Through the Matrix film series, the simple, narrow and long leather coat became a popular fashion item around the turn of the millennium, although the original Matrix coats are actually made of lacquer and not leather .
Loden coat
A real loden coat is made of fulled and combed wool fiber and lets the rain roll off well enough to stay dry for a few hours in bad weather. The classic shape is cut wide and long, has a turn-down collar and a long vertical box pleat on the back.
Mantelet
A mantelet ( French mantelet , literally “ little coat ”) is a short cape with a hood for women; mainly used in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Paletot
A paletot ( French paletot , "upper garment") is a slightly tailored, single or double-breasted coat with a suit-like lapel, which in the 18th century corresponded to the style of the suit worn underneath . It is made of unpatterned wool; the collar, sometimes a velvet collar, can be narrower than the lapel. The pockets are either sloping or horizontal.
In France, the term paletot generally meant a man's coat. From around 1860 it was also used for a certain type of women's coat. The general term paletot for a long women's fur jacket, which was recently still used in the fur industry, was increasingly replaced by the term short coat, which is common in the textile industry .
Pardessus
The pardessus ( French par dessus "over") is a slightly tailored coat similar to the paletot, which was worn during the crinoline fashion in the 19th century. It differs from the Paletot mainly in that it is slightly more tailored (often with darts in a princess cut ) and is trimmed with fur or velvet.
Pardesu
The Pardesü (Turkish from French: par dessus, "over") is a women's outerwear that is widespread in Turkey and that conforms to the Islamic body cover regulations (hijab). The pardesü is a mostly wide cut, floor-length coat. The pardesü can have a wide variety of colors. It is sometimes also offered in a tailored form.
Pelisse
The pelisse ( Old French la pelice or le peliçon fur-lined robe) was a fur- trimmed or fur-lined overgarment worn by men and women in the late Middle Ages. From the middle of the 18th century until around 1867 a wide, cape-like coat or cape made of satin or velvet, about knee-length and with arm slits.
Fur coat
A fur coat is a coat made from pelts with the hair facing outwards. See also the article fur .
poncho
Poncho (Spanish, pronounced pon-cho, originally from the Mapuche language Mapudungun) is a coat common in parts of South America, which has its origin among the indigenous people.
Wheel cover
The bike coat is one of the most original coat forms : a circle of fabric open on one side is provided with a neck opening in the middle and hung over the shoulders. A clasp, collar, and slits to slide the arms through may be provided. A close relative is the cape .
Raglan coat
The raglan coat is named after the one-armed field marshal Lord Fitzroy James Henry Somerset , later Baron Raglan, the British commander in chief in the Crimean War , who wore such a coat. The shape of the sleeves is characteristic of this coat : the ball of the sleeve is cut up to the neck hole , so that the sleeve seam runs diagonally from the armpit to the neckline and the shoulder area is cut on the sleeve. This cut makes it easier to put on and take off.
Redingote
A redingote ( French redingote , Verballhornung of English riding coat ) is a long coat with a large collar and possibly one to three pelerines . The Redingote originated in England in the 18th century as a rider's coat and became established in France in the 19th century as a fashionable coat for men and women. To this day there are variations of this style. One can say both the Redingote (like the coat ) and the Redingote (like French la redingote ).
a raincoat
A raincoat should primarily protect against moisture. That is why it is made of water-repellent material. In the past it was mainly rubber - this is what the Mackintosh from Scotland (from 1824), the Kleppermantel from Rosenheim (from 1920) and initially (in the 1970s) the so-called Friesennerz stand for . An alternative is waxed cotton fabric - Barbour has been producing wax jackets since 1900 until today.
Around 1950 the raincoats were made entirely from PVC, plastic coats similar to those still in use today. Their disadvantage is that the moisture generated by sweating cannot evaporate in the airtight jacket. Attempts are made to counteract this with ventilation openings.
Today, raincoats are made of synthetic materials described as "breathable" with climate membranes (Goretex, Sympatex and others). In addition, there are also raincoats made of coated materials (PU or PVC) that are offered as lacquer coats .
Raincoats are usually long and have a high collar or hood.
Roquelor
Roquelor (or French Roquelaure) is the name of a heavy woolen coat that was worn by the infantrymen of the Prussian army of the 18th century, whose equipment did not otherwise include a coat.
Dust coat
A dust coat (duster) is a robust form of coat that is intended to offer the wearer special protection when sitting on a horse, coachman's seat or, in more recent times, a motorcycle. It probably developed out of the coachman's coat or Carrick in the pioneering days of North America and Australia.
Surtout
Surtout (IPA: [syʁ.tu]) is a name for an overskirt or overcoat from the 18th and early 19th centuries. Towards the end of the 18th century, like other coats, it was provided with several shoulder collars hanging on top of one another. Originally it was worn by officers of the cavalry over their uniform ( sur tout "over everything [else]").
Trench coat
The classic trench coat is a raincoat made of light cotton, such as gabardine or poplin . In the literal sense, it comes from English, a coat (= coat) for trenches (since the First World War). Trench there has the meaning of trenches or trenches , which in turn is derived from the French "tranchées" = trenches. The trench coat was standard equipment in the British army at the time . Its inventor was Thomas Burberry , who also introduced the gabardine mentioned above.
Ulster
As Ulster is a long, further referred winter coat that is worn by men, it is made of heavy material with a wide collar and wide lapels.
The name of this coat originated in the 20th century from the name of the province of Ulster in Ireland , where this heavy fabric was first made and coats were made from it.
Others
- The saying “hang your coat according to the wind” means that you always adapt to the prevailing opinion or the balance of power.
- The saying "cover something with the cloak of charity" means that one generously overlooks a wrongdoing.
- The saying "put a cloak on something" means that something is presented as harmless.
- The saying "The truth is a warming coat" says that the truth is something good and protective.
- The metaphor is also widespread: "Spread the cloak of silence over something".
- In 1842 Nikolai Gogol's story The Coat was published .
- According to tradition, Martin of Tours shared his cloak with his sword and gave one half to a poor, undressed man.
See also
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Paletot. In: Alfons Hofer: Textile and Model Lexicon. Volume 2: L - Z. 7th, completely revised and expanded edition. Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1997, ISBN 3-87150-518-8 .
- ↑ Elizabeth Ewing: Fur in Dress . BT Batsford Ltd, London 1981, p. 102 (English).
- ↑ Alexander Tuma: Pelz-Lexikon. Fur and Rauhwarenkunde, Volume XX . Alexander Tuma, Vienna 1950, p. 99, keyword “Paletot” .
- ↑ Ingrid Loschek : Reclam's fashion and costume dictionary. 5th, updated and expanded edition. Reclam, Stuttgart 2005, ISBN 3-15-010577-3 , p. 389 f.
- ↑ Ingrid Loschek: Reclam's fashion and costume dictionary. 5th, updated and expanded edition. Reclam, Stuttgart 2005, ISBN 3-15-010577-3 , p. 391.