Caban (jacket)
Caban ( French for raincoat , jacket ) refers to a jacket that is traditionally used in the navy and sea fishing and is usually about a jacket- length jacket made of tightly woven virgin wool.
Called "pea coat" in the US Navy , it is mainly known in Germany as Collani, Colani, Kulani or Kolani. There was and does not exist a uniform, official way of writing and speaking, as the official designation in all German navies has always been "overcoat". The term Stutzer is not very common .
In the German navy, the overcoat was and is part of winter equipment for crew and mate ranks.
Prussian Navy and Imperial Navy
With the highest cabinet order (AKO) of April 27, 1849, teams and NCOs of the Kgl. Prussian Navy equipped with an overcoat, also known as a pea jacket. 1859 Marine Administration was part of the on Malta purchased "Maltese Pattern No. 1 "intended for further procurement. This pattern was lined with gray canvas. This version already had two rows with 6 buttons each, but here still horn buttons. In April 1862 the Ministry of the Navy ordered a change in the lining, which was now made of molton . Over the years, the design changed only marginally. However, the overcoats were given metal buttons in the now Imperial Navy in 1874 and, from the end of 1893, right-angled flaps on the ends of the collar.
During this period the term "Collani" became established. When exactly is unclear, it is certain that a partner in the textile company LH Berger, Collani & Co. gave its name. The main business and factory of this Prussian purveyor to the court were in Berlin, but had branches in the Imperial War ports of Wilhelmshaven and Kiel .
Reichsmarine and Kriegsmarine
For the Navy , from June 1, 1935 Navy , regulated the naval service provision M.Dv. No. 260 the clothing industry of the naval force The edition of July 1938 stipulates that 2 pieces of overcoat should be equipped with a wearing time of 36 months.
It says about the nature of the overcoat:
“General description: Made of alizarin-dyed crew cloth. Body lining blue molton, iron thread sleeve lining. Components: Two front and two back parts. The back sections are easily connected to each other by a vertical center. Cover length: reaching 5 cm below the crotch. On each side of the cover, about 22 cm from the lower edge, an outside pocket, about 15 cm wide and 19 cm deep, with a flap. Inside on each side a breast pocket, about 15 cm wide and 21 cm deep. The sleeves have a stitching about 9 cm from the lower edge, and a 4 to 5 cm wide cuff. A hanger made of lining material on the inside back of the collar. Five open buttonholes in each side of the chest, one buttonhole in each of the breast flaps. Collar: Turn-down collar, lower and upper collar of the basic cloth, 8 cm wide at the front across the middle of the flap and 5.5 cm wide at the back, 1 cm from the edge a stitching seam. The lower side of the collar is stitched. On the upper side of the collar at the front at both ends there is a flap of cornflower blue cloth, measuring 6 to 4 cm. The narrow side sits parallel to the front edge of the collar and, like the long side, directly on the stitching. Obermaate and Maate wear silver braids of 0.5 cm width on the flaps. Size, location and number of buttons: size I. Gold-plated buttons. A row of six on each side of the chest, short on the left and long on the right. The top button is about 5 to 6 cm below the collar seam, the bottom button is at the same height as the top edge of the bag. "
An addendum also states:
"For the cadets in the officer career, a tailor-made overcoat is made from better cloth, with a back seam and light lining, but without flaps."
Federal Navy / German Navy
For the Bundesmarine / German Navy , the central service regulation ZDV 37/10, since 2014 central guideline A2-2630 / 0-0-5 "Suit regulations for soldiers of the Bundeswehr" regulated the clothing sector.
People's Navy
For the People's Navy, the service regulation of the National People's Army (NVA) DV 10/5, later DV 010/0/005, "Types of uniforms and how they are worn, clothing regulations" regulated clothing.
The regulation stipulated three wearing periods adapted to the seasons for the entire clothing industry. In addition to the summer period, there were two transition periods from 01.03. until April 15th and 01.11. until 30.11. as well as the winter period from 01.12. - February 28/29
The overcoat was part of the service, board, starting and parade uniform for sailors in the basic military service, non-commissioned students, sailors and mates on time and in the reservist military service in the transition periods and winter period.
literature
- Klaus-Ulrich Keubke; Manfred Kunz: Military Uniforms in the GDR 1949–1990: Organization, uniforms, armament and equipment . Studio for portrait and history painting, Schwerin 2003, ISBN 3-00-011362-2 .
- Rolf Noeske; Claus P. Stefanski: The German Marines 1818–1918: Organization, uniforms, armament and equipment . Verlag Militaria, Vienna 2011, ISBN 978-3-902526-45-8 .
- Ulrich Räcker-Wellnitz: “Collani” navy jacket : a Berlin master tailor named it . In: Heimat am Meer (supplement to the Wilhelmshavener Zeitung) . No. 4/2018 , February 17, 2018, p. 13-15 .
- Josef Zienert: Our naval uniform: its historical development since the very beginning and its contemporary development from 1816 to 1969 . Helmut Gerhard Schulz Verlag, Hamburg 1970.
Individual evidence
- ^ Ingrid Loschek: Reclams Mode and Costume Lexicon, Philipp Reclam jun., Stuttgart 2011, 6th edition, ISBN 978-3-15-010818-5 , p. 215
- ↑ Front laundry. The West German fleet finally says goodbye to the traditional sailors' clothing, the "Kiel boy suit". In: Der Spiegel . No. 20 , 1977, pp. 74-76 ( Online - May 9, 1977 ).
- ↑ Marine Service Regulations M.Dv. No. 260 Dress Code for the Kriegsmarine v. July 5, 1938, Annex 5, p. 184
- ↑ Marine Service Regulations M.Dv. No. 260 Dress Code for the Kriegsmarine v. July 5, 1938, Appendix 3A, 5. Überzieher, p. 100
- ↑ Service regulation DV 010/0/005 Types of uniform and how they are worn v. November 10, 1986, p. 7
- ↑ Service regulation DV 010/0/005 Types of uniform and how they are worn v. November 10, 1986, pp. 24-26