Loden

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Loden coats

Under loden rough, tough wool fabrics are understood. The term loden as a collective name is used for dense carded yarn fabric (rarely worsted yarn fabric ) - predominantly made of wool - with a more or less smooth surface.

Loden originally referred to coarse, non- milled woolen fabrics made from carded yarn . At least since the Middle Ages Loden was fulled (see. Walkstoffe ) to then as "woolen cloth" (English broadcloth , Swedish wadmal to be) processed. At that time, the term loden only referred to the unfinished raw fabric before the fulling process. Colloquially, Loden is often equated with Walkloden, although both milled and non-milled fabrics fall under this name. The classic colors are olive green, gray brown, mottled black or red brown. Modern loden fabrics are mostly woven in twill , twill- like or plain weave.

The proven oldest existing manufacturer of walkloden is the Lodenwalke in Ramsau am Dachstein . Franz Baur's Söhne was an important company in Tyrol .

etymology

The term goes back via the Middle High German lode , coat 'to the Old High German lodo, ludo , coarse woolen material, which has been documented since the 10th century . Parallels exist in the Old Saxon loðo , Old English loþa , coat, blanket 'and the Old Norse loði , coarse cloth, shaggy coat'. Other words are known from Old Norse which are based on a basic term loð , villi . In the Germans are probably wobble , his limp, limply hanging, stroll, strolling 'and tremble , tremble, loose move, hang loose, sway back and forth' the same Indo-European root * (s) leu, * (s) LU to pose 'drooping limply, limp'.

In any case, an anecdote widespread in the Dresden area is not applicable, according to which a certain August Loden is said to have developed the loden coat named after him in his shop in Dresden (at that time still Löbtau ) in the 19th century. This story, which was circulated on the Internet, was picked up in 2008 by the Sächsische Zeitung , but refuted in 2013 in the Dresdner Neuesten Nachrichten : Both loden fabrics and the name for them are much older.

Traditional use

Loden was traditionally the robust clothing material of the peasant population in Europe, which was valued in the milled form because of its wind and rainproofness. Filled loden still plays an important role in traditional costumes of the Eastern Alps and also in the historical and modern costumes of the Sami people of Lapland.

Loden production

The basis for the existence of the loden mill were the farmers in the area, from whose high mountain sheep the wool came. Originally, the wool was loosened up by the farmers with two boards studded with nails and spun into solid threads on the spinning wheel by the farmers' wives and their maids on the long winter evenings. A skilled weaver wandered from farm to farm, weaving the loose fabric on a loom. The farmers brought this raw loden fabric to the loden walker. There it was vigorously hammered and stamped in warm water with heavy wooden hammers powered by water power. The fabric shrinks, the individual hairs become matted with each other until the waterproof and windproof whale loden is created.

Some of the mills still follow the original process, similar to 500 years ago. Despite the enormous technical progress, this method could not be displaced. Numerous operations are necessary for the generation:

  • Wolfen : This means the mixing of different types of raw wool and colors, tailored to the further use. The mixture of raw wool comes into the machine and is torn and mixed by toothed rollers.
  • Carding : The carding machine has many rollers equipped with needles that comb the wool into a fine fleece . This is divided into the first roving (untwisted thread).
  • Ring spinning : Here the first roving is spun into a solid thread. The threads are spun in different thicknesses depending on the type of use.
  • Twisting and Winding : The spun filaments are at different twisting processed. Several yarns are twisted together to achieve greater strength. With the use of different speeds when turning, different effects (e.g. knobs) are obtained.
  • Weaving : In the weaving, the finished yarns and threads are woven into various woolen cloths. Depending on the intended use, various weaving techniques (e.g. canvas , twill , double) are used.
  • Fulling : Fulling in the fulling mill is an old and simple working technique. The woolen cloth is drummed in lukewarm water (30–40 ° C) with the addition of curd soap using pressure and friction. The wool becomes matted, denser and approx. 40% smaller.
  • Finishing :
    • After a short spin cycle, the workpiece is colored .
    • In order to treat the fabrics as gently as possible, they are dried in the fresh air according to an old tradition . This allows the loden to slowly release the moisture it has absorbed during fulling or dyeing.
    • The Rauen is still made with carding to prevent electrostatic charging.
    • Any protruding fibers are cut off on the warping machine in order to obtain a smooth and fine surface.
    • After fulling , the loden is ironed wet and then leafed after drying . Blattln is the process when the finished loden is finally flattened.
    • A decatizing machine refines the shine that the loden obtained when leafing.

Modern types of loden

Modern women's clothing made of loden fabric

Depending on the intended use, the following types of loden are distinguished

Walkloden (Meltonloden, suit or Joppenloden, Bozener Loden, Tuchloden)
Fulled (meltonized) and impregnated loden for trousers, skirts, suits, coats and costumes.
Traditional loden
A whale loden (see above), which is often woven in a cross twill weave, which promotes matting of the surface.
Knitting loden
A modern Walkloden (see above) that is (machine) knitted instead of woven. Knitted loden is much cheaper than woven loden and, thanks to its flexible mesh structure, adapts better to the curves of the body.
Jerseys
In tricot knit .
Washcloth
Modern loden variant with a tumbled surface, which is not laid, so that a restless look is created.
Strichloden (also coat loden, line fleece, line cloth)
Unrolled loden. Recognizable by the long ruffles laid in a line, which should encourage rainwater to run off.

See also

literature

  • Thomas Meyer to Capellen: Lexicon of tissues . 2nd, extended edition, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 2001 (first edition 1996), ISBN 3-87150-725-3 (3rd, fully updated edition as CD-ROM 2006, ISBN 978-3-87150-981-0 ) .
  • Armin Torggler: Of gray loden and colored cloth. Reflections on the cloth trade and textile processing in Tyrol , in: Verona-Tyrol. Art and economy on Brennerweg until 1516 , (= Runkelsteiner writings on cultural history 7), Athesia-Verlag, Bozen 2015, pp. 199–245, ISBN 978-88-6839-093-8 .
  • Cloth . In: Merck's Warenlexikon . 3rd ed. 1884 ff., P. 590 f.

Web links

Wiktionary: Loden  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ^ A b Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm: German Dictionary . Leipzig 1854–1961, Volume 12, Col. 1116.
  2. a b Wolfgang Pfeifer et al. (Ed.): Etymological dictionary of German . dtv, Munich 1997, p. 808.
  3. Meyer's large pocket dictionary in 25 volumes . BI Taschenbuchverlag, 2001, ISBN 3-411-11007-4 , sv article "Loden".
  4. Loden as an anecdote in women's fashion history - advertising text of a fashion boutique ( Memento from September 27, 2013 in the Internet Archive )
  5. Thomas Krohner: Small primer of the Dresden inventions. Saxon newspaper, October 16, 2008.
  6. ^ Stefan Schramm, In: Dresdner Latest News, August 28, 2013. August Loden and the loden coat - an alleged invention from Dresden. ( Memento from September 17, 2016 in the Internet Archive )
  7. Loden production according to the Lodenwalke Ramsau. In: Lodenwalker Ramsau am Dachstein. Retrieved on April 3, 2020 (German).
  8. Lexicon of Tissues , see literature