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Appretur (from French apprêt "finishing, finishing") describes the finishing treatment of fabrics and textiles , but also yarns and fibers as well as paper and leather , in order to give them a special appearance and / or certain properties. This includes special surface structures, rigidity, softness, gloss, density, smoothness, suppleness, but also water-repellent, antistatic , flame-retardant or antimicrobial finishes .
The pretreatment and coloring of the textiles (printing, bleaching , dyeing ) are processes that take place before finishing.
Manual finishing
In the household, as well as with textile, carpet or leather cleaners, almost exclusively finished products such as items of clothing , carpets or shoes are given a finish. In general, this is used to refresh or restore certain properties of a product. By applying an impregnation agent, the waterproofness of shoes or jackets can be renewed. There are tablecloths or shirts with a laundry starch sprayed to increase skid resistance and stiffness. Most of this work is done by hand or with little use of machinery. The shelf life of these measures is usually limited and may have to be repeated after each cleaning.
Industrial finishing processes
In industrial production, a distinction is made between chemical and mechanical finishing. These take place either in a wet or dry process. Usually - depending on the desired effect - the finishes usually follow the coloring. As a rule, these processes take place on the flat textile structure in the wide state or in strand form. The finishing of yarns and twisted threads is usually referred to - if at all - only in the case of semi-finished products such as B. Sewing threads and hand knitting threads.
Chemical finishing in industry
This is used to modify the substrate to achieve specific properties that it would not have in its original form, and thus to improve the performance properties.
Permanent finishes are used to permanently equip a textile product with a certain property . Nevertheless, the durability of the effect depends on the care and environmental conditions of the textiles made from it. For example, the fibers of an item of clothing are coated with water-repellent chemicals in order to achieve waterproofness on the one hand, but still ensure air permeability on the other. Or textiles are impregnated with insecticides to protect them from moths .
Technical procedures
A selection: boiling, exhaust process, desizing , padding , carbonizing , causticizing , matting , mercerizing , oleophobing , paddling , knife coating , foam application, spraying, spraying, fulling
Chemicals used
A selection: antistatic agents, softeners , emulsifiers , desizing agents , enzymes , fillers and stiffeners, fungicides , water repellants, oil repellants, anti- slip agents , thickeners , plasticizers , whiteners .
Description of goods with a chemical finish
A selection: anti-static, anti-bacterial, anti-microbial , antifungal, anti-pilling, anti-soiling, soil resists, Baygard, coating Eulan , flame retardant, stain protection, fungicide , Lint , hydrophobic, hygiene equipment , impregnated , light stabilized, mercerised, Mikrobakterizid, microbicide, micro fungicidally , Motte real , Nano finish, Perigen, mold resistant, flame retardant, Scotchgard, Teflon , UV blocker , UV stabilized, machine washable, water repellent
environmental Protection
As a result of increasing awareness with regard to environmental protection and the greater susceptibility of consumers to allergies , the finishing of textiles has changed towards compatible, yet effective processes. Since the 1980s , when choosing chemicals, ever greater emphasis has been placed on environmental compatibility and harmlessness to humans. Seals of quality such as Oeko-Tex Standard 100 from the Austrian Textile Research Institute ( ÖTI ) and the Hohenstein Research Institute or natural textiles from the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry ( IVN) were created to ensure confidence in low-pollutant product quality. Since the 1990s , the supply of completely chemical-free textile products has risen sharply, thus meeting the demand from environmentally conscious consumers.
Mechanical finishing in industry
The aim is to change the mechanical properties of the textile, for example
- Smoothness or roughness
- Gloss or dullness
- Openness or closeness
- Tightness or permeability .
In most cases, the mechanical finishing is accompanied by a chemical finish.
Technical procedures
A selection:
- Steaming
- Decating
- Felting
- Gassing / scorching
- Embossing / embossing
- Calendering
- Shrinkage
- Moire
- Rough or rough
- Sanforize
- Scissors
- Sanding
- Shrink
- Thermosetting
- Walking
Previous finishing steps are fixed by heat treatment, greater dimensional stability is achieved and the appearance is optimized, especially after mechanical finishing. Some textiles, such as some fulling felts , are manufactured using a mechanical-thermal process.
literature
- Christel Brem: Textiles, poison on our skin. 1 ton of textiles - 1/2 ton of chemicals. AbeKra-Verlag, Altenstadt 2001, ISBN 3-9805124-3-6 ( Anpfiff 2 series).
- Dieter C. Buurman: Lexicon of textile interior design. 2nd Edition. Buurman, Bad Salzuflen 1996, ISBN 3-98047-440-2 .
- Gerard Fiscus, Dominique Grunenwald: Textile finishing. Comprehensive guide. High Textil, Sausheim 1992.
- Alois Kießling, Max Matthes: Textile specialist dictionary. New edition. Schiele and Schön, Berlin 1993, ISBN 3-7949-0546-6 (series of specialist books on modern textiles and clothing ).
- Max Peter, Hans-Karl Rouette: Basics of textile finishing. Handbook of Technology, Procedures and Machines. 13th revised edition. Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 1989, ISBN 3-87150-277-4 .
- Alan H. McKeand: Textile finishing dictionary. German – English, English – German. = Dictionary of textile coloration and finishing German-English. Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 2004; ISBN 3-87150-841-1 ( Textile Technology Edition ).
- Hans-Karl Rouette: Dictionary of textile finishing. German – English, English – German. = Dictionary of textile finishing. Springer, Berlin et al. 2002, ISBN 3-540-43214-0 .
- Ulrich Stöckigt, Werner Döck ao: finishing. Pre-finishing, bleaching, drying, mechanical and chemical finishing. Fachbuchverlag, Leipzig 1990, ISBN 3-343-00261-5 .
