Boiled wool

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Example of a jacket from Vadmal with leather applications in the modern style of the Sami

Walk materials are Burlap or twill woven fabrics whose surfaces by Walken are (pressing, pushing, crushing, pressing and kneading in warm, slightly alkaline or acid baths) matted so that the original weave is little or no more to see . In contrast to felt , however, woven fabric is used.

Originally only woolen fabrics were milled, only since the 20th century has there been a small proportion of various milled mixed fabrics, which, however , must contain a minimum of 20% wool . Walk fabrics were called cloth until the 19th century .

properties

Walk fabrics are mostly windproof, water-repellent, very hard-wearing, wrinkle-free and very good heat-retaining properties. Grades of 200 to 1000 g / m² are common.

Manufacturing

So-called knobs are used to remove impurities from the raw fabric ( loden ) . After pimping, washing follows, which removes grease, glue and dirt from the loden. The fabric is then napped a second time and, with the addition of chemicals (previously soap , rotten urine or fuller's earth ), drummed . As a result, the fine fibers protruding from the yarn and, to a certain extent, the yarn threads themselves felted. The milled fabric is washed again and dried under tension on a drying frame. The wet cloth is then roughened in steam, whereby the hairs that protrude irregularly from the matted surface are pulled out evenly and brushed down in one direction. Traditionally, the dry fruit stands of the card thistle ( Dipsacus fullonum ), the bristles of which end in small barbs, were used. After roughening, the pulled out hairs are brushed against the grain on the dry cloth and cut evenly to a short length in a shearing machine so that they together form a smooth surface. In the case of high quality cloth, the roughening and shearing processes are repeated up to five times. After shearing, the cloth is napped for the third time, then finally decated and pressed.

Walk fabrics

Traditional boiled wool

  • Scandinavia: Vadmal and Kläde
For centuries, boiled wool was the most important clothing fabric of the people in Sweden and Norway. Either the hard and particularly heavy Vadmal or Kläde , which was imported from England or Flanders in the High Middle Ages, was used, expensive and finer cloth (English Broadcloth ). During the modern era, the quality of Nordic sheep's wool was gradually improved so that no more imports were necessary.
  • Alpine countries: fulled or traditional loden
Loden (milled and not milled) has traditionally been the toughest clothing fabric used by the peasant population in Europe. Today, tumbled loden is mainly used in traditional Alpine costumes . Trachtenloden is often woven in a cross twill weave, which promotes matting of the surface. These boiled wool can be found commercially under the names Trachtenloden , Meltonloden , Bozener Loden or Tuchloden . In Central Europe, too, hunters prefer boiled wool for their clothing, as they make almost no noise when stalking.
  • England: Broadcloth
The traditional wide cloth of Britain, which was successfully traded across Europe for a long time, is now used almost exclusively for outdoor clothing.
  • Ireland: Ulster cloth
Named after the northernmost province of Ireland, the cloth is a strong, coarse-threaded jacket material made of plain or mottled wool carded yarns, also with the addition of synthetic fibers in cloth, twill, herringbone or Panama weave , with and without woven lining. Ulster is also the name of the coats made from these fabrics.

Modern boiled wool

  • Terry toweling
Product-related name for a terry toweling product woven according to RAL 304 made of mostly untwisted but highly twisted pile yarns, the loops of which are discarded during a subsequent wet-boiling treatment (therefore not a real fulling process).
  • Jacket fabrics
Flannel-like fabrics in plain or twill weave made of wool, cotton or viscose. Wool jackets are milled and lightly roughened, others are given a coat finish.
  • Pearl
Thick, heavily roughened carded thread with small flake pearls on the right side.
  • Arraché
Fulled, thick fleece with a tangled surface. Arraché is mostly woven in herringbone or twill weave. The longer floats visible in the raw material serve in the fulling and beading process to be able to better pull the individual fibers out of the thread composite (arracher).

Woven felt and felt cloth

When it comes to felted textiles, a distinction is made between felt made of non-woven fibers and fulled wool made of woven fibers. Nevertheless, there are two substance names in the literature that have to be placed between these two terms:

  • Woven felt
Is created by placing or blowing animal hair (on one or both sides) on a woolen fabric with subsequent felting and milling so that the hair is inseparable from the fabric. Despite the woven fabric base, this material is counted among the felts.
  • Felt cloth
According to DIN 61 205, it is made from a fabric made from feltable fibers that is subjected to a felting process.

Origin and history

For the process of fulling fabrics, the felting effect of wool , which was already known in pre-Christian times, was used. Originally, people were milled with hands or feet. In Sweden there are some well-preserved textile finds from the High Middle Ages ( Lödöse , Bockstensmann ), which were clearly - sometimes only one-sided - milled.

The Frisian shawl became famous as early as the 8th century and is mentioned several times in the writings of the Carolingian era . The cloth was named after the Frisian traders. However, the wool and possibly the finished cloth came from England. In the High Middle Ages fulling mills became more and more popular , which led to the unemployment of many foot walkers. Quality- conscious manufacturers of fine woolen cloths preferred hand- milled or foot-milled goods because of the gentler processing of machine- milled goods. In some places fulling mills were banned again because of the poor quality of the processed materials or restricted to processing cheap mass-produced goods.

In the course of the Middle Ages, the later Netherlands developed into the largest cloth producer in Europe. Cloth manufacturers in Flanders or in northern Italy, which had specialized in high-quality, heavy fabrics, preferred the short-curled, finely curled English wool. This was exported in huge quantities: in 1305 the export comprised more than 45,000 sacks (the wool from approx. 220 sheep went on one sack, so that approx. 10 million sheep were sheared for 45,000 sacks).

At that time, cloth was one of the most important international trade goods.

swell

  1. ^ Extract from Meyer's Konversations-Lexikon from 1888, keyword cloth
  2. ↑ Skrekarhyttans Vadmalsstamp under "Project"
  3. ^ "Lexicon of Tissues", see literature
  4. ↑ Buy terry fabric by the meter. In: Stoff.de. Retrieved January 3, 2020 .
  5. ↑ Buy twill fabric online. In: Stoff.de. Retrieved January 3, 2020 .
  6. ↑ Search results for "pearl". In: stofflexikon.com. Retrieved January 3, 2020 .
  7. ↑ Search results for "arrache". In: stofflexikon.com. Retrieved January 3, 2020 .
  8. ↑ Buy felt goods online. In: stoffe.de. Retrieved January 3, 2020 .
  9. ↑ Medieval Lexicon: Wool
  10. ^ Medieval lexicon: Fulling mills

literature

  • Ursula Völker / Katrin Brückner: From fiber to fabric. Textile materials and goods science . 33., through Ed., Handwerk und Technik, Hamburg 2007, ISBN 978-3-582-05112-7 .
  • Fabia Denninger u. a .: Textile and fashion dictionary. 2 vol. 8., completely revised. and exp. Edition, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 2006 (= Edition Textil), ISBN 3-87150-848-9 (Vol. 1 = A – K, Bd. 2 = L – Z; up to edition 7 by the author: Alfons Hofer , published under the same title)
  • Thomas Meyer to Capellen: Lexicon of tissues . 2., ext. Edition, Deutscher Fachverlag, Frankfurt am Main 2001 (= Edition Textile), ISBN 3-87150-725-3 .
  • Cloth . In: Merck's Warenlexikon . 3rd ed. 1884 ff., P. 590 f.