Splendid coat
The splendid coat is a particularly representative form of the rectangular coat , which was widespread in the Germanic area from the Hallstatt period to the early Middle Ages . Similar to the Roman sagum , the splendid cloak is folded roughly in the middle (halved), draped decoratively over the shoulders and closed with a fibula , usually on the right shoulder.
Like the sagum, the splendid coat consists of a rectangular piece of fine wool , which was decorated in bright colors with elaborate woven patterns . The targeted use of right or left twisted weaving threads also creates an additional visual effect on the fabric surface. A feature of all splendor coats are circulating on all four sides of the fabric, contrast, borders in tablet weaving , decorative and strengthening of tissue terminating edge. The braids are usually woven in in different widths during the weaving process on the weight loom and can reach a considerable width, especially on the outer edges of the jacket. Like the jacket material itself, these borders are designed in a striking color and weave. Many coats have fringes on their fabric edges or on additional selvedges . The fringes are formed in various ways, by interlacing the warp threads hanging out from the fabric end or by returning the warp threads into the fabric. In some coats, the warp threads returned to the fabric form small loops into which new threads are hung and braided into fringes.
Numerous experimental archaeological experiments on historical weaving machines were carried out to determine the time required to produce a single coat. For the Thorsberg splendid coat, two experienced weavers need about a year to prepare the wool, spin the threads, dye and finally weave. This illustrates the great value that such a garment represents.
In addition to depictions on Roman mosaics, numerous splendid cloaks from archaeological finds , such as those from the Thorsberger Moor , Vaalermoor and Vehnemoor, have been preserved. The Schleswig-Holstein antiquity scholar Johanna Mestorf coined the name "Prachtmantel" at the end of the 19th century.
literature
- Karl Schlabow : The magnificent coat No. 2 from the Vehnemoor in Oldenburg . In: Treatises and Reports / State Museum of Natural History and Prehistory No. 2 . Dieckmann, Oldenburg 1953 pp. 160-201.
- Karl Schlabow: The magnificent Thorsberg coat . Publications of the Förderverein Textilmuseum Neumünster eV, issue 5, Wachholtz Verlag, Neumünster 1962. ISBN 3529017051 .
- Karl Schlabow: Textile finds from the Iron Age in Northern Germany . Göttingen Writings on Pre- and Early History Vol. 15, Wachholtz Verlag, Neumünster 1976. ISBN 3529015156 .