Aiguille des Grands Charmoz
Aiguille des Grands Charmoz | ||
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left Aiguille des Grands Charmoz, right Aiguille du Grépon . Seen from Chamonix. |
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height | 3445 m | |
location | Haute-Savoie , Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes , France | |
Mountains | Montblanc massif , Alps | |
Coordinates | 45 ° 54 '16 " N , 6 ° 55' 8" E | |
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First ascent | August 9, 1885 by H. Dunod, P. Vignon, François Simond, F. Folliguet, G. Simond and J. Desailloux | |
Normal way | over the Glacier des Nautillon and the southwest face (III) | |
Aiguille des Grands Charmoz, balloon photograph by Eduard Spelterini around 1909 |
The Aiguille des Grands Charmoz is a 3445 m high mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the French Alps .
The summit ridge, which stretches from southeast to northwest, has a series of towers of almost the same height. The highest summit tower was reached on August 9, 1885 by H. Dunod, P. Vignon, François Simond, F. Folliguet, G. Simond and J. Desailloux.
From an alpine point of view, the 900 meter high combined north face stands out. It is 65 ° steep, has difficulties up to the 5th degree of the UIAA scale and was climbed for the first time by Willo Welzenbach and Willy Merkl in two stages from June 30th to July 1st and from July 5th to 9th, 1931.
The striking rock tower Aiguille de la République ( 3305 m ) rises in the northeast ridge , which in the past could only be climbed by throwing a rope. H. E. Beaujard made the first such climb on July 29, 1904. Since 1971 a row of bolts has led to the highest point of the tower.
literature
- Hartmut Eberlein: Mont Blanc Group. Area guide for hikers, mountaineers and climbers . Bergverlag Rother , Munich 1991, ISBN 3-7633-2412-7 , p. 263-268 .
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Ralf-Peter Märtin: Nanga Parbat . Truth and madness of alpinism . 2nd edition. Berliner Taschenbuchverlag, Berlin 2002, ISBN 3-8333-0093-0 , p. 66.