Ashima Shiraishi

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Ashima Shiraishi 2018

Ashima Shiraishi (born April 3, 2001 in New York City ) is an American climber . She is known for her exceptional rock climbing performance. She started climbing in Central Park at the age of 7 .

As early as 2012, the New York Times described her as an extraordinary figure in bouldering . In 2015 she was the first woman to manage a climbing route with a difficulty level of 5.15a / 9a +.

Career

Shiraishi's parents, Tsuya and Hisatoshi Shiraishi, moved from Japan to New York City in 1978 . Ashima's father is a butoh dancer. At the age of 7, Ashima visited Central Park with her parents , where she climbed boulder for the first time at a playground.

Ashima became known very early on for climbing difficult boulders. At the age of 8 she climbed “Power of Silence” (V10). At the age of 9 she bouldered "Chablanke" (V11 / 12) and "Roger in the Shower" (V11). A year later she already climbed with "Crown of Aragorn" on a boulder with the rating V13. Ashima is the youngest female climber of all time who can present a boulder ascent of this level of difficulty, even among male climbers.

Ashima is postponing existing top performances in sport climbing . In October 2012, when she was 11 years old, she was able to climb “Southern Smoke” (5.14c) in Red River Gorge Rotpunkt . Ashima was the youngest person to be able to climb a rock route at this level of difficulty until Theo Blass got an 8c at the age of 10 in 2020.

In 2013 Ashima was able to add a 5.14a in Céüse, two V13s with “One Summer in Paradise” and “Automator” and finally two more 5.14s (“24 Karats” and “50 Words for Pump”) to their route list. In July 2014 she climbed her first V14 with “Golden Shadow”. She is the second woman, after Tomoko Ogawa, to solve a V14 problem. On January 1, 2015 Ashima was able to climb her second V14 for the first time with “The Swarm”. At the age of 13 she climbed her first 9a / +, “Open your Mind Direct” in Santa Linya. This route was originally a 5.14d / 9a until a grip broke out at the end of the route. Ashima was the first to climb the route without this hold. In March 2016, she became the first woman to ever manage a boulder with difficulty 8c (V15). She climbed the Horizon route on Mount Hiei on the Japanese island of Kyushu . In August 2016 , the next V15 boulder followed with Sleepy Rave near Melbourne, Australia.

In 2014 Ashima Shiraishi was invited to give a TED talk at TEDxTeen in London. She talked about motivation in sports and in life. In 2016 she was named Adventurer of the Year by National Geographic . In the same year Ashima Shiraishi was shown together with Kai Lightner (* 1999) in the documentary and sports film Young Guns , which became part of the Reel Rock Tour .

She declared that she was vegan in November 2018.

successes

Bouldering

Rock climbing

  • 9a / + (5.14d / 5.15a)
    • Open Your Mind Direct: 9a / + French. (5.14d / 5.15a). First female ascent, March 17th, 2015 (Santa Linya, Spain )
    • Ciudad de Dios: 9a / + (French) (5.14d / 5.15a). First female ascent, March 23, 2015 (Santa Linya, Spain).
  • 8c + / 5.14c
  • 8c / 5.14b
    • Digital system: 8c French March 2014 (Santa Linya, Lleida)
    • Rollito Sharma extension: 8c french. March 2014 (Santa Linya, Lleida)

Competitions

  • 1st place Female Youth B Lead World Championships Arco, Italy (2015)
  • 1st place Female Youth B Boulder World Championships Arco, Italy (2015)

literature

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Shannon Doyne: Bouldering Phenom. New York Times, April 12, 2012, accessed May 5, 2015 .
  2. ↑ a b c Shiraishi Becomes First Female to Climb a 5.15. Outside, March 18, 2015, accessed May 5, 2015 .
  3. ↑ Julie Bosman: Ashima Shiraishi, 11, Conquers Difficult Bouldering Climbs. In: The New York Times. May 12, 2012, accessed April 21, 2015 .
  4. ↑ Amanda Fox: 10 year old repeats crown of aragorn. Climbing, March 21, 2012, accessed May 5, 2015 .
  5. ^ DOM Climbing: Ashima Sends Southern Smoke. (No longer available online.) DPM Climbing, October 26, 2012, archived from the original on February 1, 2013 ; Retrieved April 16, 2013 .
  6. ↑ Climbing block: 10-year-old Théo Blass climbs route "Souvenirs du pic" (8c) , June 18, 2020
  7. ↑ Jens Larson: Céüse 8b + by Mirko (12) and Ashima (11). 8a.nu, July 26, 2013, accessed October 25, 2013 .
  8. ↑ Chris Parker: 12-Year-Olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi Send V13 in Magic Wood. Rock and Ice, August 15, 2013, accessed October 25, 2013 .
  9. ↑ Chris Kahn: Ashima sends Automator V13 / 8B. Rock and Ice, September 25, 2013, accessed October 25, 2013 .
  10. ↑ Andrew Hewitt: Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red. (No longer available online.) Rock and Ice, October 7, 2013, archived from the original on October 29, 2013 ; Retrieved October 25, 2013 .
  11. ↑ Leslie Hittmeier: Ashima Shiraishi Becomes Second Female To Climb V14. Climbing Magazine, July 11, 2014, accessed July 11, 2014 .
  12. ^ Ashima Shiraishi and Paige Claassen Join The North Face. (No longer available online.) January 29, 2015, archived from the original on February 9, 2015 ; Retrieved February 9, 2015 .
  13. ↑ Ashima Shiraishi Earns FFA of The Swarm. In: cruxcrush.com. January 1, 2015, accessed February 9, 2015 .
  14. ↑ Ashima Shiraishi has repeated Horizon, ~ 8C! Outside, March 22, 2016, accessed March 22, 2016 .
  15. ↑ a b National Geographic: Could This 15-Year-Old Redefine Rock Climbing? 3rd November 2016
  16. ↑ TEDxTeen 2014: Just Climb Through it ( Memento from January 7, 2016 in the Internet Archive )
  17. ↑ rockandice: Ashima Shiraishi on Horizon (V15), Sleepy Rave (V15) & “Young Guns” , September 8, 2016
  18. ↑ Ashima on Instagram: "Treated myself on my rest day? I normally don't talk about this .. but I wanted to share that I have recently become #vegan ? ? I decided…". Retrieved October 9, 2019 .
  19. ↑ Reaching new heights: girl ascends to rock-climbing royalty - at only 13. Guardian, March 22, 2015, accessed May 5, 2015 .
  20. ^ Ciudad de Dios, 9a / +, by Ashima. UK Climbing, March 23, 2015, accessed May 5, 2015 .
  21. ^ A b Red River Gorge: Adam Ondra 9a flash and Ashima Shiraishi 8c + redpoint - Planetmountain.com, climbing, news, mountaineering. In: www.planetmountain.com. Retrieved May 5, 2015 .
  22. ↑ a b Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red. (No longer available online.) In: www.rockandice.com. Archived from the original on October 29, 2013 ; Retrieved May 5, 2015 .
  23. ↑ a b c Oscar Cusidó: Ashima Shiraishi, la niña araña. (No longer available online.) On July 14, 2014, archived from the original on December 9, 2014 ; Retrieved May 5, 2015 (Spanish).
personal data
SURNAME Shiraishi, Ashima
BRIEF DESCRIPTION American climber
DATE OF BIRTH April 3, 2001
PLACE OF BIRTH New York City