Dorly Marmillod

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Dorly Marmillod (* 1914 in Trogen AR ; † September 27, 1979 at Dent d'Hérens ) was a Swiss mountaineer and pioneer of women mountaineering in the Andes .

Life

Dorly Marmillod was born as Dora Ida Eisenhut in Trogen in Appenzell Ausserrhoden in 1914, the daughter of a lawyer and district court clerk. After the early death of her father, she moved to Montreux with her mother Ida Eisenhut-Reber at the age of nine . Her mother ran a pension for students there.

She met her future husband Frédéric Marmillod in a dance class. Together they went on mountain tours in the Alps. They married in 1934 and the couple had four daughters.

Between 1938 and 1960 they lived in various countries in South America and in Mexico, where Frédéric worked for the Sandoz company . During these years they made a large number of mountain climbs and first ascent in the Andes together . Dorly achieved many first female climbs. She is considered one of the pioneers of women mountaineering in the Andes.

After returning to Switzerland in 1960, Frédéric and Dorly undertook many mountain tours in the Alps. While climbing the Dent d'Hérens , they died from freezing to death.

Major ascents (selection)

  • 1938, December 27th Nevado Juncal (6110 m), (Chile). First female ascent.
  • 1939, April 11th Cerro Alto de los Leones (5445 m), (Chile). First ascent.
  • 1941, March 9th Frailes de Actopan (3000 m), (Mexico). Second ascent, first ascent for women.
  • 1943, March 3, Pico Cristóbal Colón (5775 m), (Colombia). First female ascent.
  • 1943, March 3rd Pico Simón Bolívar (5775 m), (Colombia). First crossing from Pico Cristóbal Colón.
  • 1943, April Nevado del Tolima (5215 m), (Colombia). First female ascent.
  • 1944, July 9th Nevado Rajuntai (5477 m), (Peru). First ascent.
  • 1945, August 14th Nevado Milluacocha (5480 m), (Peru). First ascent.
  • 1948, March 13th Cerro Cuerno (5462 m), (Argentina). First female ascent.
  • 1953, January 23rd Aconcagua , south summit (6930 m), (Argentina). New route west flank, first ascent.

Web links

  • Daniel Anker: [1] Dorly Marmillod, the Andean Queen

literature

  • Marc Turrell, Frédéric and Dorly Marmillod. Diary of the Andes , AS Verlag, Zurich 2016.
  • Frédéric Marmillod, Deux ascensions dans les Andes chiliennes , Les Alpes, Club Alpin Suisse, 1940.
  • Frédéric Marmillod, Notes sur l'alpinisme au Mexico , Les Alpes, Club Alpin Suisse, 1942.
personal data
SURNAME Marmillod, Dorly
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss mountaineer, pioneer of Andinism
DATE OF BIRTH 1914
PLACE OF BIRTH Trogen AR
DATE OF DEATH September 27, 1979
Place of death Dent d'Hérens