Frédéric Marmillod

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Frédéric Marmillod (born December 23, 1909 in Naters , † September 27, 1979 at Dent d'Hérens ) was a Swiss chemist , mountaineer and pioneer of Andinism .

Life

Frédéric Marmillod was born in Naters in 1909 to the colonel and accountant Frédéric and his mother Jeanne Rossi. He grew up in Lausanne, studied chemical engineering and received his doctorate in 1934 from the University of Lausanne .

In 1934 he married Dora Eisenhut , called Dorly. The couple had four daughters. Between 1938 and 1960 he worked for the Sandoz company in various countries in South America and in Mexico. During these years he made a large number of mountain climbs and first climbs in the Andes and became one of the leading Andinists of his time.

Mostly his wife Dorly accompanied him, who carried out many first female climbs. She is considered one of the pioneers of women mountaineering in the Andes.

In 1948 Marmillod took part in the Swiss Peru Expedition of the Academic Alpine Club Zurich . He made some first ascents, including the Nevado de Santa Cruz .

After returning to Switzerland in 1960, Frédéric and Dorly undertook many mountain tours in the Alps. While climbing the Dent d'Hérens , they died from freezing to death.

Major ascents (selection)

  • 1938, December 27th Nevado Juncal (6110 m), (Chile). With Dorly. First female ascent.
  • 1939, April 11th Cerro Alto de los Leones (5445 m), (Chile). With Dorly and Carlos Piderit, first ascent.
  • 1941, March 9th Frailes de Actopan (3000 m), (Mexico). With Dorly, second ascent, first female ascent.
  • 1943, March 3, Pico Cristóbal Colón (5775 m), (Colombia). With Dorly, first female ascent.
  • 1943, March 3rd Pico Simón Bolívar (5775 m), (Colombia). With Dorly, first crossing from Pico Cristóbal Colón.
  • 1943, April Nevado del Tolima (5215 m), (Colombia). With Dorly, first female ascent.
  • 1943, December 31st Pico del Castillo (5123 m), (Colombia). With Erwin Kraus, first ascent.
  • 1944, July 9th Nevado Rajuntai (5477 m), (Peru). With Dorly, first ascent.
  • 1945, August 14th Nevado Milluacocha (5480 m), (Peru). With Dorly, first ascent.
  • 1948, March 13th Cerro Cuerno (5462 m), (Argentina). With Dorly, first female ascent.
  • 1948, July 20th Nevado de Santa Cruz (6241 m), (Peru). With Ali de Szepessy.
  • 1953, January 23rd Aconcagua , south summit (6930 m), (Argentina). With Dorly, Francisco Ibanez and Fernando Grajales, new route west flank, first ascent.

Web links

  • Daniel Anker: [1] Dorly Marmillod, the Andean Queen

literature

  • Marc Turrell, Frédéric and Dorly Marmillod. Diary of the Andes , AS Verlag, Zurich 2016.
  • Frédéric Marmillod, Deux ascensions dans les Andes chiliennes , Les Alpes, Club Alpin Suisse, 1940.
  • Frédéric Marmillod, Notes sur l'alpinisme au Mexico , Les Alpes, Club Alpin Suisse, 1942.
personal data
SURNAME Marmillod, Frédéric
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss mountaineer, chemist and pioneer of Andinism
DATE OF BIRTH December 23, 1909
PLACE OF BIRTH Naters
DATE OF DEATH September 27, 1979
Place of death Dent d'Hérens