Glove maker
Gloving is a craft profession . Glovers mainly make gloves out of leather . They make designs, straighten leather and turn it into gloves. Other materials used are, for example, felt , fabric , fur or straw .
Historical
The glove maker profession is dying out in Germany . According to a statement from the Central Association of German Crafts , only four glove makers have been trained in the last 15 years. In addition, since February 26, 2011, “glove maker” are no longer recognized training occupations.
The glove-making trade experienced its heyday in the 19th century. Most of the gloves produced in Germany were made at home at the time .
After the Second World War there were still 48 glove makers in Vienna; Today only 1 in Wiener Neustadt, born around 1945, who learned in Vienna and is still active.
There is also a company with 2 glove makers in Munich. In Germany there are 2 master trades associated with it. One stretches the leather, the other sews.
A few years ago the touch capability (= operability for smartphone touchscreens ) was developed. This can be tanned into the leather or is achieved by thinning the fingertips.
Glove maker
As a rule, the whole family was busy producing gloves: the man at the loom , the woman at the sewing machine , inexperienced workers and children of all ages worked on the winding wheel or were called in for various auxiliary services. The knitting chair required for production was made available to the glove maker by an entrepreneur for a fee. He not only took the goods from him for a certain price, but also supplied him with yarn, silk and other knitted fabrics that he needed to make the gloves.
The production steps necessary to make knitted gloves were described in a contemporary article as follows:
“ The knitter moves the steps a with his feet (see the figure on the knitting chair ), whereby the shaft b rotates around its own axis and, in order to become the mesh, depresses the oddly shaped, vertical steel plates e , so-called sinkers. The thread for this is fetched from the bobbins located on top of the gallows d through the thread guides e running over and over . Stepping on part f brings the iron press h onto the needles by means of the wooden rail g , which, with the simultaneous pulling of the work through the push rod i , lines up the newly won mesh with the goods already hanging on the needles. This goes on until this is done up to the thumb. After blasting them off, make four more pairs of lengths in the same way. All six pairs are then pushed back against the needles at the point of the thumb in the width of the thumb. The work starts all over again, until finally, at the fingertip, the inclination of the fingertip is brought about by folding the meshes using the minor machine 1 placed on the carrier k . For some years now, the fingertip has also been strengthened by adding another thread, which creates the double tip. The now finished piece is made with lengthways cuts in the width of a thumb and with that the 12 thumbs are ready for a pair of half a dozen pairs of gloves. In the evening work of the chair is at the side in the eyelet m a candlestick with flare n found a completely filled with clear water glass ball, a so-called ball Schuster, which raises the light of the lamp located behind the needles. ".
The patterns worked into the goods freely from memory, which mostly consisted of flowers, tendrils, leaves, trees, garlands, stars, stripes, etc., were often left to the worker himself. He had to devote all his attention to his work, because a single mistake ruined two pairs of beginnings and robbed him of the sixth part of his daily earnings. When the glove was finished on the knitting chair, the knitting child got it to thread. From the fingertips she lined up the stitch loops with the sewing needle on the thread, pulled it together and tied it. Only now could the weaver's wife sew the glove together with the sewing machine. Then the only thing missing was the silk seams on top of the hand. This work was also done for the most part in the knitting room by clamping the glove in smaller machines and sewing the gusset by hand. A skilled glove maker could produce 12 pairs of gloves in one day. The wages were modest, and the home worker usually had to pay for the expenses for breaking needles and sinkers in addition to the stool interest. In the finish of the entrepreneur, the gloves were brought over hot molds to achieve a pleasing appearance, examined for defects, stamped, stapled and finally packaged, so that they were finally ready to be shipped.
Alongside Metzingen, Johanngeorgenstadt in the Ore Mountains developed into one of the most important German glove- making cities in the 20th century . With the end of the GDR, production was discontinued and only one glove maker still produces in a private show workshop.
Individual evidence
- ↑ Federal Employment Agency, career information
- ↑ § 1 VO of February 14, 2011 ( Federal Law Gazette I p. 264).
- ↑ Andreas Mauerer: Wait a minute: You ca n't do anything with a glove without trying it on ORF-Radio, Ö1, broadcast December 28, 2017, 3:30 pm - 3:55 pm, audible for 7 days.
- ↑ Max Lindner, Die Handschuh-Stuhlwirerei, in: Die Gartenlaube, anthology 1894, page 573.