Helmut Gargitter

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Helmut Gargitter (* 1967 in South Tyrol , Italy ) is an Italian mountaineer and full-time mountain guide. He is married and has a daughter.

Alpine biography

At the age of nine he climbed routes in the fifth degree of difficulty with sneakers in his home climbing garden in Mahr near Brixen . At the age of 15, Gargitter and his friend Walter Kranebitter of the same age climbed many classic Dolomite tours , including the Stevia north face crack , the Comici on the Große Zinne and the Mayerlverschnealtung on the Heiligkreuzkofel .

He then turned to sport climbing and was able to climb routes up to the top tenth level of difficulty in the following years. Traveling across Europe gave him an insight into the different climbing ethics of the countries. During this time he got to know the climbers Wolfgang Güllich , Kurt Albert , Bernd Arnold and Stefan Glowacz , with whom he was often out and about. From 1992 Gargitter focused on high walls around the world. The first climbing expedition took him to Baffin Island . The expedition team opened the route "Stories in Stone" (IX- / A0) in the 700 m high north face of Mt. Walle (so named by the expedition team). This is followed by first ascents on high walls in Greenland, Madagascar, Jordan, Mali, Iran, Venezuela, Namibia, Chile, Mexico, Colombia. In 1997 he passed the mountain guide examination . Since then, Gargitter has accompanied climbing, ski touring, mountaineering and trekking groups in the mountains of the world.

Alpinistic services (selection)

The numbers indicate the level of difficulty in climbing (EB means first ascent).

  • 1984 - 86: in South Tyrol - first ascent (EB) "Rambomania" IX + in Brixen,
  • 1987: in South Tyrol the first red point ascent of the "Grödnerführe" IX + at the 1st Sella Tower;
  • 1990: in South Tyrol EB "Terminal" X in the Mahr (first route with Xth degree of difficulty in South Tyrol);
  • 1992: in Canada EB and first ascent "Stories in Stone" on Mt. Walle in Baffin Island IX- / A0; in South Tyrol 1st solo ascent of "Shit Hubert" VI + / A2 on Piz Ciavaces, EB "Pampered by scents" VIII- (clean) on the Geierwand / Dolomites
  • 1993: some first ascents on Wolfsberg in South Africa; in Greenland expedition to Ulamertorsaq - new route to the middle of the wall, then demolition; in South Tyrol - EB from "Vacuum" X in the Mahr / Brixen, EB from "Waffenlos" 9- on the Scotoni south face / Dolomites and EB from Punta del Pin north face crack IX + Hohe Geisel / Dolomites
  • 1994: in South Tyrol EB from "Say never never" IX- and "Ochs am Berg" VIII + Sella / Dolomiten, EB from "Hans peep in the air" VIII- am Peitlerkofel; in Greenland - EB by “Moby Dick” IX + / A1 at Ulamertorrsuaq with Stefan Glowacz and Kurt Albert
  • 1995: in Arco EB by “Hammada” X- am Colodri; in Jordan EB from “Raid with the Kamel” VIII at Jebel Rum with Christoph Hainz
  • 1996: in Madagascar EB and first ascent of Tsaranoro "Gondwanaland" IX
  • 1998: in Mali EB from "Inshallah" IX- am Kaga Tongo with Pauli Trenkwalder and Colonel Klaus
  • 2000: in Namibia EB from “Herero Arch” IX- at the Spitzkoppe; in Mexico - EB from “Gilberto's donkey” IX in Potrero chico
  • 2001: in Iran - EB from “Crystal fall” IX- in the Alam Kuh north face in Elburs with Renato Botte
  • 2002: in Venezuela - first ascent and EB of "Jardineros de grandes paredes" VIII + on Acopan Tepuy
  • 2003: in South Tyrol EB from "Loss lei heb schun" IX - on Heiligkreuzkofel / Dolomites - in Chile - EB from "La vista del condor" VIII + / A3 in the Valle de Cochamo
  • 2005: in Morocco EB of "libiti bito" VIII + / IX- at Jebel Timrazine in the High Atlas
  • 2006: in Oman EB from “Shukran” VII + (clean) at Jebel Misht in Oman; in Turkey EB from “Orient” VIII + / IX- at the Parmakkaya Nadel in Aladağlar with Pauli Trenkwalder
  • 2007: in Montenegro EB from “Another day in paradise” VII + at Boljske Grede (clean)
  • 2008: in Venezuela EB and first ascent of “Tiric, Tiric” on Upuigma Tepuy IX- with Bernd Arnord and Kurt Albert; in South Tyrol - EB of "Liebes Betrug" VIII- am Peitlerkofel
  • 2009: in Venezuela EB from "Hotel Guacharo" VIII + / IX- at the Roraima with Kurt Albert
  • 2010: in Colombia EB of “Tierra de Condores” VIII + at Ritacuba Blanco 5530 m in the Cordillera del Cocouy with Simon Kehrer, Fernando Rubio Gonzalez u. Ivan Calderon
  • 2011: in Algeria EB from “Tinariween” VIII- at Tizouyag in Hoggar with Simon Kehrer - in Norway EB from “Lofoten reality” IX- (clean) Lofoten with Pauli Trenkwalder

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ http://www.bergleben.de/klettern/76-e_7864,parentE_7840.html
  2. ↑ http://www.alpenverein.it/de/alpinist2010-2013-kletterfahrt-lofoten-21_143189.html
  3. ^ Richard Goedeke: Dolomites. Sella, Langkofel . Bergverlag Rother GmbH, 2001, ISBN 376331315X , p. 241 ( limited preview in the Google book search).
  4. ↑ Odle, Puez - Guida dei monti d'Italia . Touring Editore, 2000, ISBN 8836519482 , p. 126 ( limited preview in Google book search).
  5. ↑ Archived copy ( memento of the original dated January 12, 2005 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.sine.de
  6. ↑ to 29min. Film about the catch-up EB
personal data
SURNAME Gargitter, Helmut
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Italian mountaineer and full-time mountain guide
DATE OF BIRTH 1967
PLACE OF BIRTH South-Tirol