Massone climbing area

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Location of the climbing area near Massone

The climbing area Massone (also Policromuro ( Italian : multi-colored wall )) is located above the Arco district of the same name north of Lake Garda . The limestone rock facing south-east is one of the largest, best-known and most frequented climbing areas in Italy . It is divided into three sectors in which there are more than 160 routes with levels of difficulty 4a to 9a +.

In many routes, brittle handles or steps were fastened with Sika or created from scratch. Since there were repeated conflicts between climbers and property owners of the olive groves directly at the foot of the wall, the municipality of Arco bought the property in order to secure this climbing opportunity permanently.

Sectors

The Pueblo sector of the climbing area

Bassa sector

The lowest of the sectors is actually called Policro Muro , but is now almost exclusively referred to as Massone Bassa . Almost all the easier routes in the area can be found in it, and accordingly it is also used by climbing courses.

While in the left and right wall part of the sector mainly short (up to 20 m long), flat, inclined routes in the lower levels of difficulty dominate, in the middle section there are somewhat longer, slightly overhanging routes mainly in the seventh French level of difficulty, some routes also lead through smaller roofs .

The Bassa sector was the first rock face in the Arco region whose (hook) rehabilitation was financed by the municipality of Arco.

Gola sector

The Gola sector takes its name from its location above a small gorge. The middle of the three sectors, largely developed by Diego Depretto, offers the longest routes in the area. The routes, up to 45 m long, with levels of difficulty 7b to 8a + are mostly vertical to slightly overhanging.

Pueblo sector

The top of the sectors (also the Tyrol sector ) offers some of the most spectacular, overhanging and difficult routes in the Arco area. It was developed by Rolando Larcher, Reinhold Scherer and Gerhard Hörhager, among others. The sector consists of wide overhangs and a cave system in the right area, which was created from the 18th century by an oolite quarry, from which large blocks, especially for sculptures etc. a. were exported to Parma, Trento, Innsbruck, Salzburg and Vienna. In addition, the caves were enlarged during World War II to be able to hide tanks in them. A winch attachment made of steel and concrete on the left of the cave entrances still testifies to this.

In 2002 the World Wildlife Fund bought the area on the right side of the sector to create a geological nature trail. This section of the sector was then closed to climbers, many hooks were removed and a system of paths in and outside the caves was created and secured by stone walls.

Underground

The underground climbing route ( level of difficulty 9a ) was the most difficult route in Italy for a long time. It runs almost horizontally through a cave roof and overcomes a height difference of just 5 m with a length of about 25 m. The first ascent of the route developed by Gerhard Hörhager was made in 1998 by the Italian Manfred Stuffer. Whether he was actually able to climb the route is, however, controversial, in which case Yuji Hirayama , who climbed the route in 2000, would be the first to climb it. The first woman to succeed was Laura Rogora.

The route starts at a pillar in the middle of the cave with a long pull to a good grip. After a few light strokes, the first of the two key points follows in Fb grade 8a. This is followed by other relatively easy trains. The second key point is then at the end of the route when you exit from the roof into the slab.

So far, the underground could be repeated several times and is now one of the most repeated routes in this level of difficulty. Some of the repeaters are:

Web links

Commons : Falesia policromuro  - collection of images, videos and audio files

literature

  • Michael Meisl, Martin Lochner: Arco - climbing from Lake Garda to Brenta , Lochner-Verlag, Ebenhausen 2005, ISBN 3-928026-25-9 ; P. 136 ff.
  • Mario Manica, Antonella Cicogna, Davide Negretti: Climbing in Arco , Versante Sud, 2010, ISBN 88-96634-08-3

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Michael Meisl, Martin Lochner: Arco - climbing from Lake Garda to Brenta , Lochner-Verlag, Ebenhausen 2005, ISBN 3-928026-25-9 ; P. 138 ff.
  2. ↑ Archived copy ( memento of the original from September 23, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.arco.org
  3. ↑ Blockings in Massone on climbing.de; Retrieved August 30, 2010
  4. ↑ Christian Bindhammer in an interview ; Retrieved September 8, 2010
  5. ↑ Laura Rogora climbs "Underground" (9a)
  6. ↑ Video: Tomas Mrazek on bergstieg.com ; Retrieved September 8, 2010
  7. ↑ Vadim Vinokur sends Underground (5.14d) ( Memento of the original from November 3, 2011 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. ; Retrieved September 8, 2010 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.climbing.com
  8. ↑ Kilian Fischhuber climbs "Underground" 11 (9a) ; Retrieved September 8, 2010
  9. ↑ Cédric Lachat climbs underground on bergstieg.com; Retrieved September 8, 2010
  10. ↑ Poland Lukasz Dudek succeeds underground  ( page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. ; Retrieved September 8, 2010@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / news.climbing.de  
  11. ↑ Jakob Schuber climbs his first 8c + / 9a on kletterszene.com ; Retrieved September 8, 2010
  12. ↑ [1] on kletterszene.com; Retrieved October 27, 2014
  13. ↑ [2] on youtube.com; Retrieved October 27, 2014
  14. ↑ [3] on vimeo.com; Retrieved March 29, 2015
  15. ↑ Archived copy ( Memento of the original from March 16, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. On edelrid.de; Retrieved May 5, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.edelrid.de
  16. ↑ [4] on youtube.com; Retrieved May 11, 2017

Coordinates: 45 ° 55 ′ 49.8 ″  N , 10 ° 54 ′ 8.6 ″  E