Chasm (guild clothing)

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Foreign freedom brothers in guild clothing

The Divide (from Hebrew qellippa: Shell, bark) is the traditional guild clothing or costume of a journeyman craftsman, especially the journeyman journeyman during the years of travel . It consists of:

  • the hat: slouch hat with a wide brim, cylinder or coke , which is always black,
Carpenters usually have a slouch hat, the Obermann . The hat had a special meaning: it stands for the free man, which was not a matter of course in the Middle Ages (the journeyman was acquitted by the master master at the beginning of his wandering or at the end of his apprenticeship in front of the open guild drawer from the discipline of the teacher) . Wearing the hat is subject to strict rules, it is only removed on special occasions (for example when eating, but not in foreign inns).
  • the perennial : a collarless white shirt, possibly with tucks ,
  • the pants (with different flaps , but in any case with side pockets for utensils such as yardstick, pencil, etc.), these almost without exception always have two zippers ( the so-called "spinner buttons" on the lapel of the jacket and six as a distinguishing feature of the Free Vogtlanders of Germany mother-of-pearl buttons attached to the flaps),
  • the vest with eight white mother-of-pearl buttons on the front (for the 8-hour working day). The buttons are sewn on so that the thread forms the letter "Z". A "V" is required for the Vogtlanders, there are eight buttons on this vest. The vest is also known as a cross spider ,
  • the jacket with six mother-of-pearl buttons on the front (for the 6-day week) and three buttons on the sleeves representing three years of apprenticeship and three years of traveling,
  • Shoes or boots, mostly black, but can also just be dark,
  • of honesty (similar to a tie or a tie). The affiliation of the journeyman to a shaft can be recognized by the color of the respectability . Free travelers do not wear honor.
  • an earring (possibly with guild mark), which is stabbed with a hammer and nail with a targeted blow, if necessary,
  • the Stenz (for journeyman hikers), (hiking stick made of special wood that every journeyman has to look for himself)
  • the belt with belt lock (with the respective guild symbol),
  • Pocket watch with a watch chain on the vest. The coats of arms of the cities visited are attached to the chain (similar to a Charivari ).

The color of the gap varies depending on the profession (black for wood professions; light for stone professions, i.e. previously white now gray for bricklayers or beige or light brown for stone masons and stone sculptors; blue for metal professions). It is made of different fabrics such as: Manchester, Trenker or Genua cord , velvet possibly with tucks (only if the shaft belongs to the respective color), German leather , pilot (English leather ) or twisted double pilot , each made entirely or almost exclusively Cotton .

No additional buttons or decorations are attached to the chasm. Colors of respectability or identifying features or colors of the piping

The Charlottenburger is not directly related to the gap, but is clearly assigned to the clothing and the respective association .

literature

  • Konrad Vanja : earring wearer in “civil”. In: Rolf Wilhelm Brednich , Heinz Schmitt (Ed.): Symbols. On the meaning of signs in culture. 30th German Folklore Congress in Karlsruhe from September 25 to 29, 1995. Waxmann Verlag, Münster 1997, ISBN 3-89325-550-8 , pp. 353-366.
  • Dieter Sinn, Renate Sinn: Everyday Life in Prussia. Societäts-Verlag, Frankfurt am Main 1991, ISBN 3-7973-0499-4 , p. 69 ff.

Web links

Wiktionary: Kluft  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Mareike Schaal: The Carpenters' Chasm. Retrieved March 1, 2016 .
  2. Jochen Wurft: The wandering - Stoimetz.de. Retrieved August 9, 2017 .