Marietta Uhden

Marietta Uhden (2009)

Marietta Uhden (born July 5, 1968 in Munich ; † November 23, 2014 ) was a German sport climber . Marietta Uhden was a twelve-time German champion in sport climbing / bouldering , World Cup winner in bouldering (2000) and bronze medalist at the 1997 World Championships and the 2005 World Games . She was the first woman in the world to successfully climb a route in the eleventh degree of difficulty (XI- / 8c).

Life

Marietta Uhden was a trained goldsmith, trainer B sport climbing (DSB license) and trained as a Feldenkrais teacher from 2006 to 2011 . She was married to the former coach of the German national team in sport climbing, Peter Naumann, with whom she has a daughter. Marietta Uhden lived in Upper Bavaria near Bad Tölz. She died of longstanding cancer.

Athletic career

A gymnast for several years as a child, Marietta Uhden only began her career in sport climbing at the age of 21. Inspired by the observation of two climbers on the north face of the Großer Zinne , which Marietta had observed on a hike in the Dolomites in the summer of 1988, she began climbing her first routes in 1989 in Arco , Italy.

Just three years later, in 1992, Marietta Uhden was a member of the A-squad of the German National Sport Climbing Team and in the following year she became the German difficult climbing champion for the first time. From then on she was able to climb professionally thanks to sponsorship contracts. In 1997 she achieved her first excellent international placement: third place at the World Championships in Paris.

With the ascent of the route Where the wild guys live in the Kochel climbing area , Marietta managed her first route in 1995 with a smooth tenth grade. In 1997, Marietta Uhden was the first woman to climb the Happy Biceps to You route in the upper tenth grade (X + / 8b +) and in 1999 the Wassermusik route (10 + / 8b + (A) 8 (1st ladies' ascent), both at Schleierwasserfall in the Kaiser Mountains . Seven more Paths in the upper tenth degree followed: in bouldering , in the forest of Fontainebleau, you can climb through climbs up to difficulty level 7C +, Alta, and in the Flash , you can climb bouldering up to difficulty level 7B +, La Mur de Lamentation.

At the turn of the millennium, she and her future husband Peter Naumann moved to the Isarwinkel , and in 2001 Marietta Uhden broke the world record for women in difficulty climbing there. She was the first woman in the world to climb a route with the eleventh level of difficulty: the route Sonne im Herz in Jachenau, Bavaria (XI- / 8c +).

In 2005, Marietta Uhden won the bronze medal at the World Games in Duisburg despite a shoulder injury the previous year .

By the end of her competitive career, she was ten times German champion in difficulty climbing and two times German champion in bouldering.

After these victories, Marietta Uhden, at the age of 37, declared her retirement from the international competition scene in August 2005 after sixteen years of active competition. Marietta Uhden, the "grande dame of German climbing sport", is considered Germany's most successful sport climber alongside Juliane Wurm .

After her sporting career, she trained as a Feldenkrais teacher and, with her husband, developed a movement school for climbers. She taught this at the Bad Tölz climbing center.

Track record

Competitive climbing: best results:

• 1st place in the German Sport Climbing Cup ( Lead ) - Hildesheim 1991 (first victory in a Sport Climbing Cup)
• 3rd place UIAA World Championship (Lead) - Paris 1997
• 3rd place UIAA World Cup (Lead) - Birmingham 1997
• 3rd place UIAA World Cup ( bouldering ) - Val d'Isere 1999
• 4th place UIAA World Championship (Lead) - Birmingham 1999
• 1st place UIAA World Cup (bouldering) - Munich 2000
• 3rd place UIAA European Championship (Lead) - Munich 2000
• 3rd place Rock Master (Lead) - Arco 2001
• 3rd place UIAA World Cup (Lead) - Yekaterinburg 2002
• 3rd place World Games (Lead) - Duisburg 2005

In addition, Marietta Uhden was able to win 38 German sport climbing and bouldering cups and win the German championship a total of eleven times (nine times lead, twice in bouldering)

Inspections of famous routes with the highest levels of difficulty:

• 1993 Quart de Siècle 8a / 10- (F), Conan the Relaxer 8a + / 10- (D)
• 1994 Sun in the eyes 8a + / 10- (SL), 1st ladies ascent White Winds 8a + / 10- (A), Anabolica 8a / 10- (E) 1st ladies ascent, So Sexy 8a + / 10- (I) 1st ladies ascent
• 1995 Where the Wild Things Are 8b / 10 (D), Jurassic Climb 8b + / 10 + (I)
• 1996 Cronache Marziane 9 + / 7c + (I) 1st ascent, World Music 10 / 8b (I), La Pulce d 'Aqua 10 / 8b (A)
• 1997 Chaos 10 / 8b (A) 1st ascent for women, Dance with Death 10 / 8b (SL), Good Night Iren e 10/10 + / 8b / 8b + (SL) 1st ascent for women, Happy Biceps To You 10 + / 8b + (A) 1st women's ascent
• 1998 Alta 9 + / 7c + / Boulder (F), Le mur des lamentations 9- / 7b + / Boulder (F) Flash ascent, Le toit aux grattons 9- / 7b + / Boulder (F)
• 1999 Wassermusik 10 + / 8b + (A) 1st ladies' ascent - 7th ascent in total, Le placard 10 / 8b (F), Commando Madrid 10 + / 8b + (E), Le mouton dans le foret 7c / boulder (E) first ascent
• 2000 Le must 10 + / 8b + (F) First women's ascent , Baby Basher 10 + / 8b + (D) First women's ascent
• 2001 Sun in the Heart , 11- / 8c (D) first ascent, The Face 10- / 8a + (D) first women's ascent
• 2002 Just as wild 8b / 10 (D) first ascent, La rose et le vampir 8b / 10 (F) first ladies ascent, The Little Prince 8a + / 10- (D) on sight ascent
• 2003 (serious shoulder injury), where the wildest guys live 8b + / 10 + (D) First ladies ascent,
• 2004 (year of development) Freedom 8b / 10 (D) First repetition after 16 years
• 2005 (comeback) honunts of love 8a / 10- (AU) On-sight-Ascent, Graceland 8b / 10 (AU) First Ladies Ascent, Highlander 8b + / 10 + (AU) First Ladies Ascent, Generation next 8b + / 10 + (AU) First women's ascent
• 2006 surgery on the other shoulder, year of construction

literature

• Portrait Marietta Uhden in Rock Stars (Heinz Zak, Rother 1996)
• Portrait of Marietta Uhden in sport climbing in the Alps (Peter Mathis / Malte Roeper , Kompass 1996)
• Rock 1998 (Rotpunkt Verlag 1997)
• Rock 2000 (Rotpunkt Verlag 1999)

Web links

• Portrait and video interview with Marietta Uhden on mountains2b
• Interview with Marietta Uhden in 2005 on resignation from competitive climbing on Alpin.de
• Competition results from Marietta Uhden on digitalrock.de

Individual evidence

1. ↑ We mourn Marietta Article from November 25, 2014, accessed on November 25, 2014
2. ^ Marietta Uhden goodbye . ( ifsc-climbing.org [accessed October 1, 2017]).
3. ↑ Homepage Marietta Uhden ( Memento of the original from November 28, 2014 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , accessed November 25, 2014. 
4. ↑ DAV Panorama: A light goes out , issue 1/2015, p. 29
5. ↑ climbing.de of October 14, 2002 " Steffi Graf des German sport climbing "
6. ↑ Kletterwelt mourns Marietta Uhden Article from November 26, 2014, accessed on December 15, 2014
7. ↑ Marietta Uhden is third at the World Games in Duisburg , July 25, 2005, climbing.de