Max Matthew

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Max Matthäus (born July 17, 1883 ; died 1937 ) was a German climber who was primarily active in the climbing area of ​​Saxon Switzerland and was one of the world's best climbers of his time.

Life

Matthäus was a galvanizer by profession . He started climbing around the turn of the century and was soon out and about with the best climbers in Saxon Switzerland at the time, such as Oliver Perry-Smith and Rudolf Fehrmann . In the years before the First World War , Matthäus played a key role in the further development of wall and crack climbing in Saxon Switzerland.

One of the most important first ascents by Matthew was the southern crack on the cross tower in the Affensteinen . With this path, which he took on September 18, 1910, the difficulty level VI + of the UIAA scale (according to the Saxon scale VIIc) was achieved for the first time worldwide . It wasn't until eight years later that the next level of difficulty followed in Saxon Switzerland with the western edge of the Wilder Kopf by Emanuel Strubich .

Other first ascents of Matthew included:

  • Great Falconer Tower, Alter Weg, V, November 11, 1906
  • Large falconer tower, Matthäusriß, VIIb (VIIc), October 23, 1910
  • Bloßstock , Gipfelstürmerweg, VI, May 7, 1911
  • Falkenstein , Hoher Riss, V, April 14, 1912

He was also involved in other first ascents as a second climber .

literature

  • Dietrich Hasse: cradle of free climbing. Saxon landmarks in global alpine sports up to the middle of the 20th century . Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-7633-8103-1

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Erhard Klingner: Mountaineering development of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains , www.barbarine.de ( Memento of the original from November 10, 2017 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , accessed July 18, 2018 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.barbarine.de
  2. ↑ Hard rock climbs - First routes of each grade , accessed July 18, 2018
  3. ^ Dietrich Hasse: Cradle of free climbing. Saxon landmarks in global alpine sports up to the middle of the 20th century. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-7633-8103-1 , p. 145
  4. ↑ Matej Pohorsky, Standa Mitac: Break the grade: Climbing milestones from 6a to 9c , www.emontana.cz, November 2017 , accessed on July 18, 2018
personal data
SURNAME Matthew, Max
BRIEF DESCRIPTION German climber
DATE OF BIRTH July 17, 1883
DATE OF DEATH 1937